Wicked my first subscriber thanks dude. It's certainly nothing like a stock one I really can't wait to get it back past 245hp to show what it's really capable of
I have been looking at one that needs an engine rebuild, i really liked the one i had if it was a 3 door one i would have kept it
I did Abingdon with the one i had, totally standard only changed the tyres and front pads, saw off an Audi RS4 estate with it
Happy days! I had a Porsche and quite a few quick petrols and motorbikes let me past on the NC500 as they mustn't have been up for it as I was in this and it sticks like glue with the extra weight up front and torque Engines arent the cheapest but come up not and then.
sry for very late reply. measured with "butt dyno". during summer urban driving (city driving) has lots of lag, feels lazy. on B roads is much more responsive, and also during the winter feels a lot better. didn`t read the temps anywhere. also my cluch failed at abt 335.000 km (guestimating abr 200.000 miles)
I've looked back at your original post. The problem you have is if everything stock. is too many restrictions for the turbo size. Stock air filter and small cones won't be enough. Plus stock cooler is why your getting such differences between summer and winter. And I believe due to this flash tune you mentioned. Can't just flash a map on these if you really want to get good performance you have to put the hours in on a Dyno and have custom work. Id recommend doing some calculations for air filter size and flow capabilities for a bigger turbo. Stock setup air feed pipe is also far too restrictive. As are some small cone filters. Remember Diesels breathe different to petrols I've ran older diesels without an air filter for this reason and I couldn't fit a cone filter behind the engine on a Peugeot 306 xud9 when I bolted a T2 Subaru turbo to it with a welded wastegate at around 42psi So I just had an open turbo engine lasted 8months at full boost before the rods made an exit. That's when I decided to buy this Megane and have been developing lots of ideas and putting them into practice. Potentially to maybe sell packages etc to help people achieve the full potential of what these are capable of If you require any further help please feel free to PM me and I'll help where I can
Great thread CJ_RSSport, really enjoyed reading through this! Please could you provide some more information on the 4 bar MAP sensor you've fitted, it's something I'm struggling with! I've currently got a 1756 fitted but still a standard MAP sensor.
@ cj - it`s the daily driver, so i won`t go crazy on it, we use it for kindergarten run to holiday / commuting/ everything. it will most likely remain as it is. i don`t know how the megane chasis is, but this engine deserves more car than the laguna is (that coming from bmw e90 owner). probably better suspension and tires just to put down the torque and it is what it is. im guessing my intercooler has seen better days, and at some point replacement will be needed, hopefully with something better / bigger, if not - stock will do. unfortunately we do not have local tuners which will do custom map, time / will / my budget for custom stuff / they knowledge on my parts flying off trough the bonnet to do this kind of experiments. here everybody just buys a volkswagen and get the job done. i`m just swimming against the current.
Stick with it, the engine is a great unit, i have the same engine in my Espace it's was mapped just after i bought it, now thats 8 years ago, still going strong with 180k hard miles on it.
Hi buddy, Check the pictures on previous page, part number is on the map sensor its a vag unit. and I got a plug and wires off ebay too and fit a custom plug. Ive still not finished the harness on the car side yet. As for initial mapping I just soldered it in place. I want to be able to swap out easily dependant on which map sensor and ECU combo i run. Im just in talks with a CNC friend about getting some adaptors made up too. Similar to the one in that picture as that was the last dervtech had.
Laguna's arent that bad, like big barges on a canal haha the coupe laguna is a naughty number though. Yeah I always start with suspension and brake upgrades before modding the engine. and in this case engine mounts too as i do like a 2nd gear launch Stock intercooler for your application will be fine. theres a lot more restrictions on the IC pipework, EGR and throttle body and intake manifold so IC doesnt make a huge difference. The stock air filter and small cones are quite restrictive too. Im looking for exhaust upgrade soon to get better flow. Yeah I didnt want something like everyone in the VAG world hence putting a small fortune into developing these. Hopefully one day a lot of the petrol lads heads will be turned, not had chance to put this against a modded R26 yet and id love to when back up to 250ish power. the diesels may get some more attention then Just become a strong swimmer and find a way
Ta buddy, Ive come too far to give up Ive had this some years now and it has had some abuse but we do push it to its limits to see what the limits are haha We've choked it once on the dyno years ago on a stock turbo because we wanted to see the limit of the stock turbo. That was scary haha
I have been looking as i feel i need a mk2 in my life again petrol or diesel Trouble for me is there isn't anyone down here to do the mapping or any modifications, so it a long trip up country to get stuff sorted. I would have kept my other one if it was a 3 door, but will have to see what turns up. Nothing like dusting up v8's on track with a diesel
So not had many updates of late, but been rather busy. I decided with wanting to go power hunting soon, It be best to give the coolant system an overhaul. To date the car has had a water pump and thermostat housing in my ownership. It had a Nissens radiator fitted some years ago. However it wasn't the same design as the one I had when I first got the car. The new Nissens radiator I've just put on has lots more fins and bigger water channels (cores) and I felt it would be beneficial for what I have in mind for the car. Not that temperature has ever been an issue. Its more precautional. As you'll see though the coolant system was well overdue a service. I can say I've neglected it somewhat. However I made up for this with several flushes. Including 3 chemical flushes. I started with throwing a flush in as it was. This being by the looks of it a couple of different leak sealers, red coolant (incorrect grade) and lots of sh**e. Then filled the system half way adding another radiator chemical flush. Topping the system up with distilled water and bleeding the system, at the matrix pipe behind turbo and thermostat housing above the gearbox. then letting the pump get the air out of areas, Re bleed then get up to temp as per flush instructions. And repeat this process several times. Until the system is nice and clean. Like this... After many hours spend doing this process, it was partially stripped anyway for flushing. So a few more parts needed to come off to expose the radiator. Now not everything needs to come off either... New Radiator installed and bled with Type D (green) coolant. Coolant reservoir replaced with a clean one. Showing the nice bright green coolant. Type D is premixed also so no need to mix with water. Few more updates coming soon
Forgot to mention these have a coolant pre heat system. See below. I have a few of these spare, so decided to source some new glow plugs to trial as they don't sell the originals anymore. They are less voltage and wattage but it should still help the coolant preheater. As its getting colder in the UK and it would be nice to have instant heating This will look better than new once finished
If you haven't refilled the cooling system yet, i would suggest flushing the interior heater as well. You can do it from the pipes in the engine bay either from the bulkhead fittings of a bit further into the engine bay. I did my 225 and the shite that came out was worse than your radiator water, you must back flush it as well, keep changing the direction of the water flow. You really need a hose pipe or a high flow pump and a bucket of water.
Used a mini leaf blower to get the hoses blown through after each flush also just put basic information in this thread. But totally agree and appreciate the suggestion it certainly does get stuck otherwise. I suppose my plumbing background helped in this job too as currently doing the same with the central heating system
that's good as most don't even think of the interior heater, i just can't believe how bad it was, did make a huge difference till i changed the pollen filter, i was so full of leaves dirt and i hate to think what else
Oh it's certainly made a difference, the heating gets real hot in comparison. I've found a lower temp thermostat too which is 83° as opposed to the 89° one. Been monitoring temps so would be interesting to see if it makes much of a difference. Yes pollen filters are a must these suck in so much crap too. Do mine often for this reason and they're only a couple of quid
A lot of marine engines run lower temperature thermostats than there car equivalent engines, but they are under higher loads most of the time, i know it gives that little bit more breathing room, but ...... My diesel engine i had in my rib was running a 63degree thermostat, i thought that was a bit too low, i ended up fitting a 85deg and it seemed to run better. Changed the pollen filter on my mk3 such a ball ache, Mk2's are easier
So havent been doing much on the Megane of late, Other than the odd wash. However in the last few weeks, Ive given it some love. Started with a new set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4 and Laser alignment Then after gaining some more grip from the round rubber I decided to re fit the vacuum tank for the brake system. This time with a rebuilt vacuum pump (painted orange of course ) I stared fabricating brackets to mount the Vacuum tank in place with best routing of hoses. I ended up having an ideal spot utilising the gearbox mount bolt. This is the stock vacuum pipe, Grey mesh going from the vacuum pump to the brake servo. Now I know the check valve is on its way as I've been coming to start the car with a solid brake pedal. So I got a new check valve from a land rover that has a slightly bigger barbed section. Some reinforced rubber hoses to hold vacuum without folding in. and some braided pipe covers. Made a new bracket for catch can and rerouted piping. All coming together nicely. Just need to design an Ecu tray and clean all the wiring up. I did also manage to fit the EGT probe in the exhaust manifold too Just need to create my dual gauge pod and wire the Egt gauge up.
So the reason behind this upgrade is that I've always felt the vacuum pump isnt up to the job when modifying the m9r. Ive done many tests with a vacuum gauge tee'd into the supply to the boost solenoid and to the actuator. I found there was a big delay in the vacuum pump delivering the desired vacuum for full boost. So I rebuilt a vacuum pump which are really simple in design. I will post the old one broken down to show you how the m9r generates its vacuum supply. After rebuilding and fitting the pump with a new gasket. I had looked into how american muscle cars use a vacuum tank to store vacuum, having a greater braking force on the pedal. Due to them not creating much vacuum on the inlet. I decided to incorporate this into my build. and Im really happy with the results. Its much more sharp on the peddle. recovers well for several dabs on the brakes and also heavy braking its way better than before. This has helped the turbo circuit also as it can achieve full boost quicker after braking now. I do plan to run a small reservoir for the turbo solenoid which should help with boost stability when we go ahead with the 4 bar map sensor. More updates to come just finding time to get these little bits done
That look great and neater to be fair, looking forward to see the vacuum pump guts to understand more, do you have an idea of cost to do this mods and would you put a kit together for others to buy as a one off type thing?
Thanks dude I'm well happy with it this time. I'm just waiting for a warmer day to work out where to fit the vacuum tank and non return valve for the turbo circuit, as per the BMW setups, its just too darn cold. As for selling kits its not something I'll be doing as will only really be able to fit if you have the space IE battery in the boot. Ill happily put links up for the stuff used though in time. It has made a huge difference in performance. The Hybrid actually feels like a hybrid should and boost is kicking in really early. I can be on the brakes then back on boost instantly, which was my end result but the additional braking force is really good too.
Heating any better with new glow plugs in the thermoplunger? My clio dci has the same setup and im going to change them soon.
Hey Brigsy, Ive not got round to fitting it yet. I have got a 83* thermostat to fit but want to flush it again to get rid of residue out of the rubber hoses. Will update when I get chance to do so.
Had some time to get a few bits more done, starting with the vacuum tank for the turbo circuit. this fits in nicely and works a treat. Boost is strong low down the revs, hits full boost sooner and harder. Has made quite an improvement, I have also used rubber reinforced hose for the turbo solenoid. Im not sure silicone boost hose is adequate around high temperatures and could have been collapsing ever so slightly. I have found a mesh protector for cables which is heat resistant and will cover these rubber hoses to keep the rubber from drying out too quickly as its positioned over the turbo. Its cheap enough but a faff to replace often. I incorporated a bmw vacuum cannister not sure of which model. And fitted an inline check valve, this will let me take the check valve out of the vacuum pump elbow. As im sure that is restrictive and doesnt always seat properly. Bad design by manufacturer. But with the check valves on the two accumulators the oil cannot be pulled from the vac pump into these circuits. As the aim is to have stored vacuum with the standard setup struggling to keep vac stable and strong throughout the rev range. Ive noticed this has transformed the brakes too. Which id always felt slacking. With these tanks the brakes have really come alive and are so responsive. So all round a great result. Im happy with how they fit into the bay too.
Finally killed my throttle body, I have had 4 of these in ownership mind. So i got a brand spanker with fitting this I gave everything a clean out and scraped some of the carbon build-up from the inlet where I could reach hoovering the crap out before re assembly. I use silicone repair tape on the inlet too as find the hard plastic doesn't seal the best on metal at high boost. Using all new gaskets for the first time in ownership too these dont usually leak but for what they cost its worth while Had the air bag light coming on recently too, diagnosed as wheel fault so decided to replace the squib ribbon. Quick job lead to tidying wiring and fixing broken lugs on the centre console. Then feeding the cabling for the EGT gauge. Decided to retro fit a digital one in the clock area as that part of the screen isnt used. Haven't used the car since fitting so yet to see what temperatures we are getting currently. Gave it a wash too
Anddd.. I've finally got my short shift sorted too. Shout out to Mark Black at Midlands Renault Specialist too. He's done a few jobs here and there the past few years. He is something else when working on these knows them inside out. I drilled the damn thing in the wrong place, but realised it was catching on the bracket. So spun the bracket and chopped a lug off and Mark welded my stud in place What a little thing can do, it feels how it should and is effortless. Taking the notchiness out of the shifting.
Did that short shift mod on the DCi i had, did it when the engine was out so was a lot easier, i got in there with a disc cutter to cut that bracket Even the wife like the feel after, i can believe that they come out of the factory with that much throw
It really does make a different doesnt it. My gearbox was rebuilt but with how much throw they have stock it felt notchy too. I forgot about the bracket tbh but we realised when it was stopping it drilled in the correct position.
You'll have to send me some pics of the short shift mod, mines crying out for it because its like playing swingball between gears
Hey Matey, Yeah sure can, the next time I have the ecu tray out ill take pictures and measurements. We welded the stud in place as I drilled it wrong previously.
Not just yet its been put on the backburner recently and has been off the road but should be back on the road shortly and then Ill be posting some updates once I've got it booked in for mapping again. As I want to hit that 250hp mark
I'm a new boy on this forum and have always had a soft spot for the megane's I've been looking lately and one that's come up. Is a relatively decent price but the seller has told me there is an oil leak, they've said it's near the turbo. Seeing as you have a VAST knowledge would this be avoid at all costs or could it be something easily sorted? I have asked for pictures of the leak and how bad it is ♂️ Any help or advice is appreciated
Welcome to the forum buddy. And as for the oil leak its hard to say. they have a few areas they can leak from, I've had the crank sensor leak oil, had the oring on the turbo pipe leak but was just vapors. And main shaft seal leak behind the main pulley. Id certainly ask for pictures and maybe have a look yourself if the cars not too far away. But most are easily fixed anyway just check it over yourself before you buy
So its been a while, Ive not had much to update as the cars been put aside due to getting a new motorbike. However now its back I've managed to get a new catch can fitted and plumb it back into the air intake system. Ive also changed the Diaphram on the PCR valve too which is worth a check if your cars of age like mine. The old one had a tiny split.
Anddd I've totally forgot my details for my youtbube account so cant update anything. having a mare with google trying to access anything to do with it too. May have to open a new one if I have no Joy But in other news I may have sourced a 2.3 bottom end
