Hey guys i try to find some information and try my best to learn by doing but i don’t get it. Is the gear link adjustable ? I get the first gear really bad in, if the car is cold. I thought as first it’s the new clutch but I don’t think there is a Problem because it would be also bad if the car gets warm and the gears goes in without breaking tooth sound now as I remember it was also the same after my first engine out job i just unplugged and plugged the linkage in while mounting the engine. My problem I assume is the blue linkage what moves the shifter left and right and it looks like it’s adjustable but I don’t get how it should be done ? Here a pic Now anyone know how and if ? Even some other ideas why the first gear could be bad would be awesome Ah yes maybe important I use original Renault NFJ gearbox oil and my linkage is just ≈ 70k miles old Clutch is 250 miles driven and clutch point ist good meaning it’s good bleeded and airless.
I think your problem is new oil in the gearbox, mine was a bit hard to get into gear, better when hot, but now i have done 500+ miles its all good and i know there is about 1-2k miles left in the clutch
Good to know i also thought something like that but doesn’t thought it need that much running time. Now I have a excuse to burn some gas on the highway
That will defiantly help, i also put some Extralube ZX1 friction eliminator fluid into the gearbox as well, will put some in the engine once i have done a 1k miles or so.
Im not a fan of additives, I try ceratec and it doesn’t did something else than make the oil looks dirty. Try it on my bikes and one of the oil filters doesn’t look that fine as it should (was replaced 100km ago, I replace them again after clutch work) I also try some other additive in my Mazda Rx8 gearbox without any positive feedback But about that stuff are way too much discussions at the Web i asked a year or something again at a oil club on the web what would be the best oil for our gearbox and some well known guy there told me the best would be the original from Renault. He told me some good points why but I forgot it, mean something about the synchro rings are special and some more points. nevermind i know guys who drive 600hp+ BMW e30 / e36 m50 with the cheapest mannol oil and they’re happy
Hey i drove about 2000km which should be about 1200 miles it doesn’t get better Today I additionally have the problem that my shifter doesn’t Centre itself by pressing it left and right ! I bought because of that issue the ktec short shifter and throw the Aluminium cheap one away (stick at right movement) but it’s now even worser when the engine gets hot. If I drive like supposed over 3000 rpm I can’t directly change into next gear the gearbox need a second to sync but I don’t think it’s s gearbox fault. Before saying the issue is to ktec short shifter I want to renew the shifter cable if they aren’t adjustable someone have a OEM Part number ? Are they hard to renew without a hydraulic car lift ? Do I need to put the exhaust out ?
I forgot i found the whole unit on catcar but not just the cables http://www.catcar.info/renault/?lan...pbWc9PXx8Z3JwX2lkPT0zOHx8c3ViR3JwX2lkPT0zOEI=
i need to research before typing sorry for double double posting... I’m over my edit time from my last post. now I found out Renault doesn’t sell only the linkage but to find my correct linkage I need to find out my vehicle fabrication number as written on catcar. Is it really important to choose the right one or would one from a Diesel or whatever's megane also fit ? i found a whole new unit for 140 Euro (120pounds) do you think it should fit ? https://www.ebay.de/itm/182577348785
Awesome thank you very much =) Do you know if a install / deinstall of these is possible without to demount the exhaust and heat shield ?
Okay thank you i will do it when the weather is good and I can drive the bike if it takes longer as assumed The fact once Im in a gear the other ones routes perfectly makes me just a little bit uncomfortable that really the linkage is too long. It’s like the clutch isn’t bleeded correctly but It’s for sure I evenn bleed it again with pressure and biting point is perfect.
sounds like the clutch is dragging, what's it like if you put it in gear then star the engine ???? Have you checked that the up and down linkage on the gearbox is free, the plastic bush can grab, but that stops it self centring.
these are classic signs of the bushes swelling in the actuator below the linkage. the bushes swell,and grab the shafts that operate the gears..it will get worse as the engine gets hotter,as the bush swells even furthur jamming the shafts. The gear lever not self centering is another classic sign that the actuator needs sorting. Normally its just a case of opening out the bushes a fraction with a twists drill. Take the actuator out..and operate it by hand....its should move freely....if its stiff..its the bushes.
as first yes i had already that problem and because of that I buy a new ktec short shifter unit so it shouldn’t be because the bush the linkage is free and the clutch is not grabbing =/ if engine off every gear goes easy in Only the first start meaning if I stand on a red lamp and then want to drive I need to put the first gear hard in or first second gear than first After that everything works fine meaning 2,3,4,5,6 until I try to go fast and shift like 3 gear from 5000rpm to 4 gear It need a whole second to synchronise so as I think I have 2 Problems, maybe the linkage is worn and doesn’t go as it should when warm and my clutch is grabbing when engine cold I also think about the gearbox maybe is a fork worn but that should be permanently and not only cold or warm. Could only be clutch issue. I will stuck the clutchPedal next Night to the ground maybe there is really some air In. And I will try an additive for the gearbox oil really strange because it came immediately. Worn synchronisation would also be step by step, worse and worser
did you buy the linkage/actuator direct from KTEC? you did get both parts..the actuator that sits in the gearbox,and bolts in. As well as the linkage shown in this picture??
certainly worth taking the actuator out,and making sure its free,even if it is new...i have known them to fail early.You can then make sure its definatly sat down in the gearbox correct.When you do the 4 bolts up on the top..dont bolt them down to tight.
yes directly from ktec and both parts okay so I will look at it again and demount it. Mhm if I know that I would just renew the bushes on my old one but I wanted a stress free and fast way The pin on the side, meaning under the 4 bolts could cause that also this problem ? Or what is the function of that bolt?
its supposed to be a locking bolt...if you dont remove it when you undoe the 4 top bolts..it will only come out 20mm or so,then stop.When you take it out...just make sure its operating freely by hand,and when you do all bolts up,dont over tighten.....i have know the shift to become notchy if the 4 top bolts are done up to tight. Seeing as the actuator is new though,its a slim chance...but worth a try..
Thanks for your reply yes i maybe overtighten it. I will get it out and look for it. As first I don’t want to do anything to the bushes because new should be working well and could course problems if I really need to return it. Maybe adding some Vaseline or plastic friendly fluid/spray. i will Post if I get my problem solved.
You will know when you remove the whole unit from the gearbox and operate it up and down by hand..if it’s stiff and not free flowing...that’s it.if it is the problem the actuator will have to be disassembled and the bush opened out a fraction with a twist drill to stop it grabbing the shaft...
I also had deassembled that thing. i think i will get it out in 30 min because it’s my third run I already had that bush bearing problem and try to solve it with some modification on the bush but I overdid it and it became too loose. So I was thinking about make a new bush but I thought it’s stress and Problem free and maybe the spring would be better with a whole new actuator I also had Modificated my old one to a short shifter (it’s for sale here on the page) but just the linkage part is useable the other things are in the trash can. i think i use your Guide for that work but i’m not sure.
Don’t sell the short shift linkage mate!...the gearshift is horrible without it.mines been fitted to my own car for many years.it really is the best modification for a mi2 you can do
No you don’t understand ( I write too bad ) i modified the old Original one with a milling machine to a short shifter i won’t sell the ktec when it work’s properly it’s very very nice
Oh I see!...yes the ktec linkage is a direct copy of what we used to machine using Arno saminis original calculations
it was done on a exchange basis...i send people a modified linkage..they put it in,and send me there old linkage to be machined.But as per usual..trying to chase people to send back there linkages became just to much work,so we stopped doing it..
