Do you have to remove the door card to replace front drivers side speaker, even if it’s a Renault one? Or can it be done by just taking the speaker cover off?
Yeh door card off, remove mirror cover, torx screw behind there, remove handle cover, bigger torx screx there, screw cover inside door latch pull, torx screw there, torx screw edge of door, and two screws bottom edge of door, and then quick pull of the card and then unhook from window ledge. May want to get some new door clips and they may break. speakers are pop riveted aswell.
Possibly will see, the drivers side front one has blown. Had the passenger side one go years ago but had this replaced under warranty.
] It's not the speakers that are the problem It's the settings renault put into the headunit fitting a digital sound processor cures this there is no need to upgrade the standard speakers they are very capable units as I've found out
The pioneer deq-s1000a2 is plug and play with a t harness then you use your smart phone to control it the only downside to the pioneer is you have to have your smart phone plugged in when using it There are others on the market but at £199 the pioneer is the cheapest option and once setup as I said makes the whole sound system sound a million times better without the need to upgrade anything else Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
DSP is perhaps a little too advanced for what you're probably looking to achieve. I personally think the fundamental problem is the under powered head unit "clipping" when people get a bit enthusiastic with the volume level that in turn damages the (average at best) speakers. The simplest thing to do would be to replace the standard Renault speakers with something that is as efficient as possible (more than 92dB/watt), meaning they will sound louder without making the head unit work so hard and given their likely superior build, will take a bit of abuse better if the head unit does start to clip a bit. Hertz would be my suggested brand for this purpose. In terms of upgrade steps / levels I'd go:- Speakers combined with a bit of sound treatment from Dynamat or Silent Coat. Pioneer GM-D1004, or other compact amplifier that can be connected in line that will address the lack of head unit power. Subwoofer (at a minimum Alpine SWE-815 or reasonable under seat type if you don't have Recaro seats) Swap out the Pioneer for a better amplifier (possibly with in built DSP capability) and a further upgrade to the speakers. You can go even further but I suspect 98% of people would find even the first 3 steps more than enough, possibly overkill. When you replace the speakers you will need a speaker adapter ring to allow standard 13cm speakers to be used, some 4mm rivets or M4 cap head bolts, Nyloc nuts, washers, Renault to spade speaker connectors if you don't want to cut the factory loom and the best quality trim clips you can find. On a cold day trim clips tend to be more brittle and more likely to break causing annoying rattles.
The standard headunit is as like the standard speaker quite a capable unit when paired with a dsp so if your looking as I was for the oem look with greater sound quality then it's the way forward when you add that it's a more cost effective route aswell as only adding to the standard setup rather than changing speakers headunit and adding amps and all that jazz made more sense to me Plus with the dsp you have far greater control of what sound and frequency are going into the speakers the pioneer deq-s1000a2 has a built in 31 band eq and crossover settings for each speaker I will have to upload a video of how it sounds now
How is it possible to integrate a DSP without an external amplifier anyway? As far as I'm aware there is no pre output on the factory head unit and no way to feed the modified DSP signal back into the standatd head unit. Further more, I don't consider myself to be much of a "headbanger", but often found myself pushing the standard head unit volume to within a couple of steps of maximum and on the threshold of distortion. I know of a few colleagues and friends who don't recognise this threshold and happily play their car audio above that point and then ask me why their speakers don't work any more! A DSP could compound the amplifier clipping issue further depending upon calibration and if setup to avoid clipping would reduce perceived sound pressure given no increase in the gain that an external amplifier would provide (if its even possible). I'm not disputing the efficacy of DSP in general, just its application as a sticking plaster when the OP has a more fundamental issues with speakers not working at all! Maybe I'm old fashioned, but I've always viewed DSP as a way to compensate for environmental issues and not to compensate for sub standard equipment.
My original post wasn't aimed at the op but someone asking if he's "changing the crappy standard speakers" The pioneer deq-s1000a2 has a 50w×4 built in amplifier and coupled with the 31 band eq makes the required difference that these don't need changing it also has to analyse the standard sound coming from the standard head unit and speakers it then resets the standard factory setting in the headunit to get the best possible sound quality from it and the speakers It also has it's own gain control and master volume I can now listen to music at a far better quality at a volume as low as 12 on the standard headunit So while I may have deviated from the ops original question I was merely stating that I had found a more cost effective way of getting a better sound quality without the need to actually change anything
Ah my mistake. I wouldn't under estimate the effect the superior amplifier is having on the increase in performance, although I'd certainly agree a built in DSP is desirable and will surely become a more common feature even on budget amps. Does it include time alignment? For a novice doing the work themselves I do think speaker installation would be a simpler process.
