265 Coilover thoughts - AST, Nitron or Bilstein

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by DV8, Aug 7, 2020.

  1. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    yes just trying to find out why its burning oil, yes it has been mapped but the inside is in great condition, only thing that looks bad to me is the amount of burnt oil through out the engine, i know is=t has been used hard, but i think the oil has not been changed at the right time, maybe every 10k (for normal driving) where it should have been replaced much earlier if tracking it.
    I change my oil after every 3 trackdays.
     
  2. JJZ

    JJZ

    that would explain the burnt oil ian maybe the oil is a bit to thick as well good serviceing goes a long way as well you gotta change the oil on the intervals i change mine every 7,000 miles i use fuchs titan pro very good oil in my opinion.


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  3. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    If you are tracking it, then you need to change it earlier than 7k miles, i normally change the oil when it starts to go dark.
     
  4. Agree. I usually change mine after every second track day and a few times after a third track day but only if one of those track days didn’t have as many anticipated laps due to red flags. I use this:
    9217bd49914fa846673c19f2dc2ccde5.jpg
     
  5. JJZ

    JJZ

    there’s so many different oils to choose from it’s like a mine field but they all do the same job tho. yes there’s differences in viscosity longevity and yes price plays a big part as well but overall they all work i can see this being a big debate lol [emoji23][emoji12]


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  6. i think 5w 40 is the way to go..i have always used it in my R26 since it was new.Always used Renault ELF oil,but now using Shell helix.
     
  7. As above around the ring +1 for the 2 way KW clubsports - amazing - and change oil every couple of trackdays. using Fuchs Titan oil
     
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  8. Clubsport
    Front: 68 N/mm
    Rear: 59 N/mm
     
  9. after 4 suspensions I came to the clubsport kit and I regret that I did not do it right away
    bc racing 10-7 (such shit I have never had)
    cup + Grams (best if you don't need camber and you don't want to go too low)
    bilstein b14 kit (as they wrote to me here they have worse damping than cup + grams)
    kw variant 3 ( great but no camber and for me little bit soft Front: 52 N/mm - Rear: 28 N/mm
    clubsport no way
     
  10. I had so many different kits when I raced my Impreza had BC's and was told by the company setting up the car to take them off and throw them in the bin, had AST 5300 3 Way competition and they were good but expensive before the AST's went on I had KW Clubsports and to be honest the AST's were only slightly better but twice the price.
     


  11. well, that's it, it all depends on the price
    ast 5100 is about the same as clubsport what concerns the 5300 itself will be better since it is closer to the competition kit
    but about bc they are completely right!! :grinning:
     
  12. Went from Fresh Cup/grams, camber top mount combo to BC's 10/7 . Both shit on road and BCs better on track just slightly . Forget about the B roads , both were about to skip into the ditch . At 1st opportunity move to Club Sports with Reader Spring spec .
     

  13. that is the difference at reader setup?
    harder spring or something else
     
  14. if i'm not mistaken KW Club spec is 70 - 170mm springs and Raeder Motorsport ones are 110 - 170mm , they're also valved to accommodate the spring stiffness , but KW have a huge threshold in how much you can manipulate spring rates without valving them , and as i recall Raeder themselves mentioned that you can run their rates without valving on front .Obviously valved ones to suit those rates will be more efficient . Rear rates are same as on normal CS set. Normally its a rule of thumb 2+ - in stiffness on same valving .
     
  15. Did you used to own a civic? I recognise the name from the ek9 forums!

    Don't get BC they were trash on my old ek9 and can imagine the same for these.
     

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