Suspension Advice

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by Zaim, Nov 7, 2020.

  1. Looking for some experience from anyone that reads this and has a MK3 Mégane 250 Cup or similar.

    After buying the car almost two years ago on the drive home I found the car would hunt imperfections in the road and never settle on the motorway. Not crashing and hitting any stops or bottoming any, just restless.

    I had the alignment checked and it was out. Corrected and was better but still restless, and tiring for me, on the motorway.

    Since then I've uprated the bushes (Powerflex), had the alignment checked a few times, but done no other work to the suspension. The uprated bushes feels like it has increased the hunting and corrections I need to make while driving, but that might be subjective.

    Question is, do they all do that? Must stress this is just on the motorway/dual carriageway.
     
  2. Could be one or more issues Worn lower ball joints, worn track rod ends, incorrect front/rear geo, worn top mount, odd tyres
    Maybe take to reputable reno independent to asses
     
    Zaim likes this.
  3. Good point on the ball joints etc. I do have a low speed knock that I've assumed is the ball joint but need to get it checked. Need to find a specialist in the South East.
     
  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    you also need to check the anti twist links, even if they feel okay, undo one end and see if the ends just flop around, there not that much money so i would change them anyway if you don't know when they were last replaced.
     
  5. i have found at a certain age you just need to bite the bullet and change everything on the meganes suspension and geometry side.Annoying,but you can feel a little bit more sharpness come back each bit you replace!
     
    tof73 likes this.
  6. exactly this
     
  7. shock absorbers plays a big part in the handling of a car even in a straight line.
    they should be changed about every 60-70k miles, after that they just not doing there job effectively.

    Just compare an old vs a new and you see the resistance in damping is massive.
     
  8. Great responses all, and good to know they don't all do that. Time to work through a suspension refresh, with shocks last. :smile:
     
  9. didn't really think about that, thanks. my megane is approaching 60k miles, shall i also replace the springs?
     
  10. I would change the spring too as they can sag and fatigues even though the are made to last, but that just a personal thing.
    If you change them then you know that all the suspension is new and as it was design when new. and now you can get a set of eibach or H&R for less than £200.

    If you are short on cash I would use the same one.
     
  11. yes for sure..
     
  12. Recently had the two parts mentioned here done, ball joint and anti-twist link. Noticeable difference. No knocking (I always knew the ball joint needed doing - don't they all?) and less wayward. With 60k miles under it's wheels new shocks would be great but I'm not sure how much longer I'll keep it for, good problem to have.
     
  13. A question regarding replacing the upper ball joint - got a large split in the boot.
    Renault only sell the complete steering knuckle for obvious reason, but have been directed to various suppliers of good/uprated suppliers of joints/swivels etc. So happy that this would save me money.

    I spoke to an independent Renault workshop (very good reputation) about getting the work then, but he wouldn't do it as he believes they shouldn't be pressed out and replaced - ie one fit only into the alloy casting. This surprised me as he has no vested interest in using the complete new knuckle.

    Those folks that have replaced the upper ball joint (or for that matter any ball joint on the Megan)
    1. any problems with the removal/replacement of the ball joint/swivel? (i realise you need a press)
    2. any problems down the line (ie a few years later) regarding movement of the ball joint/swivel in the alloy casting?
    3. tips in fitting the new joint/swivel ie use loctite etc (as considering doing the job myself)

    Thanks in advance
     

    Attached Files:

  14. First think to note the top ball joints on these hardly do any stressful work and very seldom wear out, it’s lower joint that takes all the punishment
    Even if dust seal has broken unlikely to be won, did indi confirm there’s play in this joint ? What’s milage ?
    Yes item would need be presses out
     
  15. Thanks for getting back to me.
    The indi did a pre-purchase inspection for me so I asked him to put down all issues, to negotiate with Dealer. He actually did mention that there was very little play in the joint/knuckle.

    The car has 122k km.

    From what you are saying it shouldn't necessarily be a priority to replace? Maybe the best plan would be to see what price reduction I can get from the Dealer on the sale, and for me to "bank" it for a future fix (as I think he will shy away from AUD$1500 to supply/fit whole knuckle with genuine Renault part). ie leave it until it or the swivel bearing starts to have excessive play and do the lot??
     
  16. At that milage (75k miles) be inclined to replace just lower ball joints, drop links and anti swivel links
     
  17. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I replaced both on my 265, top and bottom, no special tools required apart from something to get the circlip off and a lump hammer, the top one is held in with the circlip, just grease the ball joint when refitting, no need for Loctite.

    They are a replaceable part so you will have to get them out again in the future.
     

  • Share This Page