There was no way that my turbo would fit with the actuator fitted in its original position, would of had to move the turbo into the dash area to get it in, i did make a bracket to try and move it out into a clear spot but it didn't work as well as i hoped, also the actuator that came with the turbo wasn't rated high enough so in the end i had to buy a "Turbosmart" actuator, the only way i could get it to fit right was to attach it on a bracket to the cylinder head, seems to be working okay at the moment, will see what its like when EFI put it on the rollers.
Some more progress, pistons and rings seem good, cylinders seem good, but theres a hell of a lot of oil around the valves on cylinders 3 and 4! What puller/tools do I need to remove crank pulley? Any suggestions?
What a lot of oil!! About the crank pulley, have easy! Someone block the flywheel with a strong screwdriver or something like that and you loosen up the bolt of the pulley helping with a long pipe. Don´t remember the bolt size, 18mm?Only take care with flywheel tooth, you must to block the starter ones, not the angle position ones. Sorry if I am understable!
Wait a minute, maybe don´t understand you. Im the picture seems that you remove the pulley yet, not?Sorry!
You don't need any pullers for crank pulley, the bolt is tight though What is the inter cooler like, is there any oil in it, stand it up on end for a day or two to see if there is any oil in it. But if its just 3&4 then i would suspect valve guides and seals
We've got the bolt off, but assumed we need to get the pulley off to get the crank out? Pretty sure it's a valve seal/guide issue, all the rings were pretty good and the condition of the valves speak for itself really!
if the bolts out then the pulley should fall off or tap off, the cambelt pulley might need a gentle pull as its on a key way
Sorry, it's the cam belt pulley that I'm struggling to get off! I'll definitely need a new one put it that way
If its a cambelt pulley on the crank, its a couple of 3mm screws and a bit of a plate with a 6mm bolt in the middle
So like a flat plate with two hole for the 3cm bolts and a hole in the middle for the 6mm? I assume you tighten the centre and it pulls it out?
Yes thats right, if you put a nut under the plate on the 6mm bolt, then you won't need to tap the plate,
Just need to pull the crank and get the valves out the head and we're ready to start throwing money away
you trying to remove the bearing ??? mine just fell out, think you will need a blind bearing puller If the bearing feels smooth then leave it in there
The seal fits over the large bit, you don't need to remove the bearing, or the crank really, just lift the main bearing housing and it will come out, i have changed them without taking the main cap off and fitting a new one. The bearing is only used when you depress the clutch
I'm going to be putting all new bearings for the crank, assumed I'd have to remove all of this and fit new bearings there too.
My burning oil was definitely valve related then, cylinders 3 and 4, cylinder 3 being the worst offender looking at the exhaust port staining!
Following on from big unos build, I've started doing some porting work myself! Seriously time consuming!! This is just a first pass and only on two inlets, this could take a while!! Photos are of one with work and one without.
I have the patience to do most car and engine related jobs, but spending all that time on a cylinder head is not me, if it was for a normal aspirated engine then i might
Slow progress, but getting there! Need to polish the exhaust ports up on the head and send it for machining. Might actually start buying some parts soon! I have decided that I'm fitting the original manifold and turbo to bed everything in. Once I'm happy I'll pull the engine again and fit the power parts!
That's it, no more First two photos are the inlet and second two the exhaust. I didn't do too much on the actual pots as I didn't want to alter the cc too much! I have emailed engine dynamics about some parts but haven't heard back yet, will give them a call later as I'm ready to start throwing money at this thing!
Just had a good chat with Andy from engine dynamics and ran a few things by him, really helpful guy to be fair to him! We're going to start getting a list of parts together and go from there! I want this to be a high revving build, I'm concerned that I'll end up with a narrow power band and be dropping off boost unless I'm fully concentrating! If we can make this capable of 8k revs then we've got plenty to play with. Thoughts so far are: Compression of 8:1 I beam rods Solid lifters Catcam 402 (possibly other options) with vernier pulleys May go double valve springs G25-550 turbo Will look into a dry sump system for piece of mind! We won't talk about fuelling at this stage in the game
I'm going to get some parts on order this week but unfortunately, due to another lockdown and already talk of a further one early next year, I'm going to downgrade the build. I'm going to stick with the standard cams and tappets etc for now, but I will fit the uprated valves and valve springs which will make the option of a cam upgrade much simpler if I decide to go that way in the future. Not ideal, but you've got to have one eye on the real world and it's easy to sink huge sums into these things without too much thought!
Ohhh my mouth is watering hehe. It's a shame now with recent lockdown but keep going strong with the project and keep us informed if you would like to!!
Good think Agreen, in a future you´ll can to change the camshaft and pulleys without removing the head. Cheer up!
