It’s probably been asked before so I apologise, quick search on here and google I can’t find anything. Are the Calipers from the 225’s the same as the ones on the 250’s?
i know of two others that are doing this mod right now, i have pics on my phone with the spacer measurements if you want them.
I have a 250, however a mate has a set of 225 Calipers from the donner car that he used to meg his clio. Was going to rebuild them and paint them yellow to match the car. However I did think they would be different. Cheers for the replies guys.
Hi Steve, not had 17's on mine but Jamie from Scotland runs 17's on track with no problem. With my 1.2 and 1.3 team dynamics there was enough room to run them. Mark P and Chris P on our whatsapp group are in the process of fitting them very soon.
Hi everyone, I’m currently trying to find out some info on putting 250 calipers into a 225 and I’m struggling to find any info on the adaptor size, discs, bolts and spigot rings for the disc? If anyone can help it will be much appreciated, thanks
You need to get an adaptor plate made for each caliper, then some longer caliper bolts. Then either get an engineering company to redrill some 250 disc's or slot the original holes, i didn't bother with spigot rings.
Hi mate, that’s brilliant stuff, could you tell me what size thread and length the bolts need to be. Also how much do you need to drill the discs?? Also what thickness do the caliper spacers need to be? Cheers
I did have the dimensions but they were on Photobucket and they have changed there policy and now i'm blocked and all my pics are not available. What bolts are you talking about, wheel bolts or caliper bolts, caliper bolts are the same but need to be The disc's need to be drilled to 5x108, the caliper bolts need to be 15mm longer than the ones you already have, think 20mm is what you need to get and the cut some off.
Okay mate, that’s brilliant thank you, so does the caliper spacer need to be 15mm? And what does that make the overall length of the bolt for the caliper? Cheers
mk2 disc's are 312mm, mk3 are 340mm, what ever the length of the bolts that are in there already add 20mm, you will need to cut them back, i think i cut mine back 4mm, the threads and pitch are the same on the mk2 and mk3
i want to do this mod as well my callipers need rebuilding the old ones are sticking. instead of doing that i’m just going to buy new mk3 callipers and sell my old ones so as above all dimensions are correct isn’t there a kit you can buy that just supply’s everything i was going to get 330mm 2 piece discs to go with the mk3 callipers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the mk3 set up should be more than enough on a mk2 .With bigger disks again,you could end up over braking the front.
i agree after looking at the prices for the 330mm 2 piece discs for the mk2 they are overpriced anyways and the mk3 discs are bigger and cheaper 340mm so that’s a much better set up overall so will go with that set up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you track yours J? Personally, I wouldn't bother with a bigger brake set up if it's just road use, you'd be better off overhauling the originals and fitting better pads. I did fit some K Sport 8 pots to an Alfa GT I once owned, they were quite good for the money, but didn't have dust seals so needed regular maintenance which could be a pain if it's used on the road regularly.
I used to be able to fade my 312`s with carbotech xp8`s on the moors round here with sustained braking before i fitted cooling.I suppose a lot of it depends on how heavy you are on the brakes.
Could be a fluid issue? Other than water getting in through duff seals and subsequently boiling the fluid, I haven't had a problem with my standard brakes out on track with cl6 pads, no fade, nothing! I've only done anglesey in it though, but theres a few heavy braking zones there. I have fully stripped mine out so is probably over 150kgs lighter than standard too. I'm looking at adding an additional 30%+ more power, so I am thinking of a brake upgrade.
hi agreen don’t track it but i want to get into tracking a couple of times a year looks really good fun the pads i have at the moment are pfz from k tec and god speed j hook 1 piece discs and srf racing fluid i just to change the callipers to be honest it’s going to cost £100 quid for the kit to rebuild the old ones so just don’t see the point rather just upgrade Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
fluids new..rbf600 .The route i take is hard on the brakes,as its short straights,and hairpin bends,so the brakes dont get anytime to cool.Its mostly all downhill as well on the most punishing section.
Impressive!! It took 7 laps on my second stint to boil my fluid at anglesey! Fluid was 6 months old and I bled it a few days before the day too!I had no fade issues before then! Was quite terrifying actually
Motul 660 if I remember correctly. The seals were completely baked on the calipers, so not sure if a little water may have crept in, there was no visible leakage of brake fluid though.
iv heard great reviews about this brake fluid i find castrol srf racing fluid is amazing i know it’s pricey £40 pound a litre but it’s worth it i remember the garage i go to bled my brakes and within a week the brake pedal was all spongy they must of used cheap shite brake fluid and since then i always bought my own. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use/used rbf 660 in my mk2 and now in my mk3, never boiled the fluid, pad fade yes with my mk3 (shit pads), if your getting your fluid to boil then its the way your using your brakes. Has this happened on track or the road ????
for me ian it was on the road but since i put in the castrol srf in it’s been fine for a year or so and no break fade what’s so ever and the clutch pedal has been solid as well no fade in either of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Only on track and a good 7 laps into my second stint. Pretty sure water had got into the system, the fluid was pretty dirty when we flushed it through in the paddock area! I had zero brake issues before that though.
water in the fluid isn't good, that is why it needs to be changed every 2 years, how do you think the water got on ????
The dust seals were absolutely knackered so I'm assuming a small amount may have got in through them. The fluid itself was changed around 6 months previous and had done maybe 2k miles at most!
that can't really happen, if water can get in, fluid would come out, the dust seals are there to keep the dirt, crap and water off of the pistons to stop them seizing up, stainless steel, aluminium and water is not a good combination
There was some corrosion on one of the pistons when I refurbished them, no noticeable drop in fluid levels, but potentially enough to let a small amount of water in? I was pushing hard for every lap too, really impressed with the cl6 pads not fading at all.
