Hi, As above, my rear calipers are a sticking and could do with a refresh. Where is the best place to get the seals/new piston from? Thanks
Kind of depends what state are in, if pitted or corroded should change, theses callipers are pita to work on as lots bits inside piston might look at some vids first also will need wind-back tool to replace piston
I hope they are ok and just need a bit of grease on/refresh. I’ll take a look tomorrow night. I’ll research some vids and see.
I’d like to know where to get them from. Having searched online I can’t find them anywhere in stock or under £100 each.
yes you are correct, the genuine TRW that are red and Reno specific are more expensive than same item un- painted
Yes same just match the part numbers and be aware of course when come to sell vehicle questions will be asked why not traditional Reno red caliper in place
So I had a look at the calipers today. I didn’t take them off the car as I need the car for work in the morning. I re-greased the slider pins as they were nearly dry. This helped a little and reduced some noise. Moving on to the piston I managed to free it up and got a lot more movement out of it than last week but I ideally need to take the whole piston out and re-grease as the pads are still touching the discs constantly. The car doesn’t have OEM rear discs on, they are Apec or something? Could this be a cause of the constant rubbing? If it is I’ll buy some OEM discs and replace them.
So having driven it to work this morning. The noise isn’t as squeaky but it’s a constant grind albeit not too loud but makes me embarrassed to drive it. So I’ll be ordering new calipers.
See them two little chrome spacers either end of pads that keeps them tight in callipers, try taking the trailing one out, see how get on with just the one.
they just stop pad rattling around, but quite tight and when pad gets super hot they dont allow for heat expansion and pad binds in caliper and make horrid noise until cools. I suspect in your case its piston at fault but nothing to loose taking the trailing spacer out (leave leading spacer in)
The Ferodo pads that were in were a very tight fit but the Brembo’s I’ve replaced them with fit a lot easier. But like you said I’ll give it a go. I’m thinking it could also but the slider pins as one on each side still wouldn't move as freely as the other. I mean it probably is the piston as the handbrake mechanism moves quite well.
Just a quick update on this. I took the piston out on the drivers side. It was dry, no grease at all on it. The brake line and bleed nipple were a pain to remove/loosen, and after a few hours of swearing getting the seal and piston back in and rewound (still not freely moving) it has alleviated the issue but I think it’ll only be for a short while. I now need to bleed the brakes which I’ll do tomorrow. If I’ve only removed the rear brake line do I need to bleed the whole system or can I get away with the rear I took off?
not sure what mean by piston dry with no grease on it. not supposed to have grease and they are inherently stiff to wind back into the caliper also can do the whole job without disconnect brake line however if have and assume didn't let drip for ages should only need bleed that corner
Really? I watched a YouTube vid of a caliper being rebuilt and saw him grease the piston albeit only a small amount I used. Anyway I also removed the brake pad chrome seating clip as you mentioned but it didn’t work but obviously that’s not the issue. I seem to have made the binding worse, after driving it for 10 miles this morning. It is now going to a Renault specialist for 2 weeks on Friday whilst I’m away to be sorted. This will be the next time I drive it.
yes you're correct as in when rebuilding the caliper you would install new seals with special supplied grease (red) but that's designed to come into contact with brake fluid and dissipate in the fluid and wont see it again. Can also use for installation of rubber seals but i'd use CERA TEC for external stuff like sliding pins and dust seal
I know, compared to simplicity of the front calipers these are right hand full, did you use cir-clip pliers to remove the piston ??
It came out pumping the handbrake mechanism a few times. I didn’t attempt to remove the insides of the piston.
Update: Kris at Ren-Sport has confirmed the calipers need replacing so I’ve ordered new ones. He also looked into an engine vibration and turns out the DMF is on its way out . So I’ll be ordering a new DMF, and clutch in the next month. I was going to get it remapped thinking the vibration was an engine or gearbox mount ha. So that will wait.
