MK3 Short Shifter

Resurrecting a very old thread - is the correct measurement 15mm from the centre of the existing ball or 20mm? Is the whole drilled in the middle of the linkage itself? (as in equal distance from each edge) ?

 

You basically want to drill it as close as you can to the old stud without the head touching it...

I did it on mine to try it but have already reverted back to the standard setup - easy to swap over without moving the battery tray etc once installed.


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Thats only about 10-15mm max then not 15-20 from the look of it? Mind if I ask why you reverted back to the standard setup? Did you cut a hole in your battery tray to make switching easier?

 

It’s more than that I would say. Basically the width of the circular head plus a few mm.

I just found it a bit vague and didn’t fall in to gear as nicely as before. A personal preference thing.

No hole needed. Once the studs are in place you can reach down between engine and battery, give it a yank and switch them over.


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Ahh fair enough! Is the 'tank' something you need to do carefully? heard of someone in the past stripping some teeth/clips off it.

 

And thats the first time I've heard someone not happy with it. Got any pics?

 

I think they could get brittle over time. Mine was ok but I was careful first time I removed it. I found a pair of long nosed pliers worked best to lever it off whilst applying even force.

Be interested to hear how you find the short shift.


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Yes, I am just confused about the exact distance and expect every MM will change it slightly so 10, 15, or 20 could make a difference without leaving enough room to chop/change.

 

Is this the correct position and if so anyone got any exact measurements? Looks like it is just on the 'bend' in the metal and actually angled not on a flat plane. Can also see the new ball head is not in the middle of the Y axis but not sure if that makes any difference

 

The distance from the original ball is correct,on the bend of the arm, but it really needs to be in line with the centre of the gearbox shaft and the ball, this will move the neutral position slightly forward or back (can't remember) if it too far then it can bump into the limit of the lever and not engage the gears fully

 

So draw a straight line from the existing ball to the centre of the gearbox shaft, and then bring it closer exactly 20mm? 20mm closer, from the centre of the existing ball

 

Yes that's it

 

So, something like this?

 

Yes exactly like that, then the neutral position will be in the same place

 

Maybe I'm thick but I can't see how keeping it in/out of that line would affect neutral position. Doesn't it just all move around the length of the cable i.e. shorter movement needed to shift the box?

Is 20mm the best or can you do 15mm etc.

 

Because the cable is a fixed length, so if you move it one way or the other, the gear lever (inside the car) will either be closer to the stereo or further away in the neutral position

 

regarding the "vague" feeling some people have been experiencing i feel like it went away after a few hours behind the wheel just getting used to it. Feels amazing now. I have an extended gear stick though so doing the short shift was kind of a necessity for me.

 

This is my setup
IMG_20200615_143125 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

Thank you! Don't suppose you have exact measurements?

 

There is a slight slope right next to where you are drilling. I figure drilling and tapping at an angle would suck big time (doubt the bolt would stay in place well either) so stay just a hair above that slope and you'll be fine.

Try to keep a straight line between the old fastener and the pivot point.

 

In order to make sure you dont drill too close you can also to put the selector cable next to the original fastener.

That way you wont have any problems fitting the cable on the ball stud.

You'll be fine

 

Mine is drilled and tapped on the bend, it was done 18 months ago or more, i have done around 20k miles and around 20 trackdays, not had one problem with it.

 

Now that i think about it i think mine may be at the very very start of the bend aswell.

Used some kind of amazing locking washer though. Even with missing some of the surface area i could bareley unscrew it.

 

I tapped the bar and also fitted a nut under as well, just to make sure

 

That is exactly what i'll be doing. Tapped and then lock nut underneath!

 

tell me. How well does such a solution with a change ball stut at oem shifter?

 

Work very very well, shortens the lever throw nicely away from agriculture tractor shift to proper sports car movement

 

it's strange that they wrote above that the stock is better

 

Oh must read this article you got link ?