R26 How to Upgrade the Fuel Pump

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Jukidam, Apr 17, 2020.

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  1. As first what you need:

    # Get yourself a tool to open the big nut. I paid 13 euro so 11,3 pounds

    IMG_20200417_153910.jpg IMG_20200417_153922.jpg
    It was his money more than worth.

    # drive the car until the level of the gauge is under 20 percent
    # Then you need a torx t20
    # A big slotted screwdriver
    # a bucket
    # A couple of towels
    # A brush to clean, not a must but helped me


    Okay first step, get your seats in the back away.

    I worked from the passanger site so I removed only the down places
    Just open them up in 90 degree and pull it out.
    IMG_20200417_151737.jpg

    Then open the little shield with your torx t20 bit

    IMG_20200417_151819.jpg

    Pull away the black cover with the slotted screwdriver

    IMG_20200417_151839.jpg IMG_20200417_152023.jpg IMG_20200417_152032.jpg IMG_20200417_152051.jpg IMG_20200417_152058.jpg IMG_20200417_152153.jpg

    Then clean it up, if you open it dirt could fall down and would / could be sucked by the pump. Then disconnect the connector

    IMG_20200417_153433.jpg

    Then Put there some towel or anything and pull the connector. Some gas will flow down.

    IMG_20200417_153613.jpg

    Then get your tool and open the nut

    IMG_20200417_154018.jpg IMG_20200417_154842.jpg

    Now
    Lift the fuel pump and try to try to dry as much fuel as possible

    By lifting be careful of the fuel gauge position Sender. It's long and the pump needs to be lifted at 45 degree or more.

    Nothing complicated you will get it!

    IMG_20200417_155303.jpg
    Let everything dry

    Now get the spring out and disconnect the sensor for the fuel gauge and take it away. I forget to take some pictures about it but it's really not a big thing.

    IMG_20200417_155750.jpg IMG_20200417_160423.jpg

    Now get away the head unit by open the lashes, you will get it if when you see it
    Screenshot_20200418_001459.jpg

    Now unmount the connector of the fuel pump.

    Okay, almost done. Now the little bit tricky part start. You need to get the bottom out. It's not screwed just clipped.

    I took it out with a screwdriver, wd40 and light hammer force.

    That's the result:
    IMG_20200417_172653.jpg IMG_20200417_172657.jpg

    You can now just pull the pump out.
    IMG_20200417_173418.jpg

    Now clean everything and as most the fuel filter.
    IMG_20200417_173453.jpg

    Now put the new fuel pump inside and do everything backwards.

    But stop after you reconnect the connector. As first insert your keycard and press the start button for 10 seconds. Hear if the pump is working. The pump willl maybe sound a little bit strange because of the air inside.
    Pull your card out and do it again.


    Now start your engine but watch if your pump is leaking. Wait 2 min, Rev it a little bit or hold it a bit to 2000 rpms.

    If you are skeptical let everything open and drive a round and watch out for leaks.


    Then reassemble the rest and enjoy your car.


    It's no big deal in the worst case if you have everything you need 3 Hours.


    Thanks to @ianplymouth for his help!
     
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  2. JJZ

    JJZ

    hi jukidam is this for stage 2 do you still have to upgrade injectors as well as the fuel pump never attempted anything like this before but i have to do this as well to mine. in the future great write up by the way [emoji1303]


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  3. Thank you.

    I had a injector failure on Cyl 2 and got 2 holes in the valves and a damaged piston :grimacing: I don't know if my car is mapped.

    I let the injector measured and the guy tell me it was worse but not that worse as it could cause such a massive failure.

    So I guessed it was a mix of a weak fuel pump, low at fuel and very fast on German highway driving :sweatsmile:


    Because of that i upgraded the fuel pump now to run a safe setup
     
  4. JJZ

    JJZ

    i want to go for stage 2 anywhere between 270bhp to 280bhp i know you have to upgrade fuel pump but ian plymouth was saying your don’t have to upgrade injectors as well just the fuel pump but i was talking to somebody on facebook and he said you still have to put in 630cc injectors and the fuel pump am confused. com [emoji2369][emoji2357]


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  5. Mhm.

    @ianplymouth knows a lot about the engines, I would trust him


    I can't give you an answer about that.
    But for myself I wouldnt risk it. After the experience I have now :tongueclosed:
     
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  6. JJZ

    JJZ

    i know i don’t fancy going down that route with the piston out the side of the block [emoji50][emoji24]then i would have to forge not ready for that yet maybe in the future. [emoji2][emoji41][emoji1303]


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  7. I wasn't also ready for that, but I'm happy now :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
     
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  8. JJZ

    JJZ

    i’ll get stage 2 then if anything happens then i forge it. tears of joy tears of joy........[emoji41]


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  9. great job and very well explained, many colleagues can use the information very well
     
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  10. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    As long as you keep the torque and power under 300 you should be okay, most problems with the 225 and the R26 are ring land failure's, this is due to the lack of fuel and pressure at number one cylinder due to the restrictive fuel rail, as far as i know this is only on mapped engines, the standard setup is okay for standard engine.
    But who has a standard mapped engine now.

    You don't need 630 injectors for up to and around the 270-280hp mark, your injectors will be maxed out by then, fitting 630's will give you a bit more power say 280-290hp but then it's the turbo that will then be the problem.

    The fuel pump is a safe guard for a lightly mapped engine, these pumps are getting old and tired now, so reduced pressure and volume is very possible, you could fit another standard pump, but if your thoughts in the future are to even run a 250 turbo or a hybrid then this modification is a must really.

    The DW63c pump is good to supply an engine with enough fuel and pressure for around 350hp ish.

    hope this helps
     
    JJZ likes this.
  11. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    As long as you keep the power and torque under 300/300 your engine should be fine, but good maintenance is still key though
     
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  12. Hi Jukidam, I wouldn´t trust the response from the guy who tested the injector…..if you´ve had the failure on the cyl. where the injector failed, it´s a clear hint that the injector was the reason. If you are going to alter any fuel pressures, you have to remap all Parameters of the injection. First, not the potentially flow from the pump is deciding over your fuel /air Ratio, it´s the fuel pressure regulator what determines the pressure. A bigger pump is only required if you have a lot more fuel demand in case you have more than 370-400 hp, bigger injectors and so on. Then you Need basically a bigger intercooler, bigger exhaust, bigger turbocharger and internal steel parts ( rods) and forged Pistons. From this Level on you might think About a bigger pump. I would install a wide band Lambda measuring tool after the turbocharger to check out whats your fuel Ratio. Should be in the range of 0,7 with full throttle ( estimated). Then your ratio is rich enough to protect your piston from burning.
     
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  13. Hey, thanks for your advice and description :grin: I just need to drive in the engine then I will Change to dekas

    My setup is like you described. Forged engine, big incercooler, 2,75 or 3" exhaust doesn't measure it till now... Meg250 turbo and the deka 630 which needs to be programmed.


    And I forget, cyl 3 (Renault count otherwise) was burned.
     
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  14. It's a shame you didn't go for a bigger turbo really!

    I imagine you'll be able to run a little more power than mine, as you won't need to limit the torque as much, but your main advantage will be raising the rev limiter. I do feel like mine could pull for another 500rpm.
     
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  15. I will Maybe later, next winter.
    I don't know how much lbfts or NM the stock clutch hold. But that would be my first upgrade next time together with a dmf or smf.

    I don't want to risk too much, it's my daily. And daily driven 300 hp are a lot! :grin:

    If I imagine that I need new upgrade clutch, flywheel, hybrid turbo and mapping (idk how much a second tune would cost exactly) I think it would cost minimum all around 2000 Euro

    And that for 60 HP or 70 HP more. So idk if it's for me personally really worth now. But I guess I'm that crazy. I would do it later if the 300hp gets lame..... :tongueclosed:
     
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  16. Yeah I guess for a daily driver on the roads a nice and safe 300bhp will be a good balance.

    Things start to get expensive after the 300bhp mark lol!
     
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  17. Hell yes :tearsofjoy:
     
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  18. JJZ

    JJZ

    reading threw this thread is very interesting and also very knowledgable when jukidam explain about the fuel pump it’s alright reading threw it with pictures but coming to do it yourself would be tricky i never done anything like that before that just shows i haven’t worked in cars that much tears tears of sadness.......[emoji24] but willing to have a go[emoji16] so if i go for stage 2 and anything goes wrong i will end up probably forging in the end [emoji51][emoji41]


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  19. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    As Jukidan has forged his now, the limiting factor is the pistons, they are only rated to 600hp if there Wossners :laughing::laughing:
    Conrods ar good for 9k rpm and 1000ftlb of torque :sunglasses:

    If you want a slightly cheaper option, i have a set of really good 265 pistons and roads spare there good for 360hp 360 ftlb torques, the mappers were saying 400/400 but a few have down graded that now.

    I had my rev limit lifted on my 225 by 1k rpm ish, 7300-7400rpm made a real difference on track :sunglasses:
     
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  20. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    If you want to have a go at this i'm sure either Jukidam or I can talk you through this, it really is worth doing even if you don't do any upgrades, the original pumps are getting old now.
     
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  21. JJZ

    JJZ

    just out of interest ian how much does it cost to forge an engine like these meganes. forged pistons and rods them it’s the labour isn’t it then finding someone who knows there way around these engine and someone you trust don’t want to be doing it twice. [emoji51][emoji2357]


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  22. JJZ

    JJZ

    i should of forged mine when the head was off getting the head gasket done would of been a lot easer having better access and all that. just couldn’t afford it at the time


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  24. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I tried not to look at what i spent, it also depends on what deals are around at the time, for example i bought a genuine oil pump for £65, Renault wanted £172, most on line were £150+ .

    If you were able to get your car here, i could do it for you, i wouldn't charge you much for labour as i need something to do, i'm so frustrated with nothing to do atm.

    I would also suggest replacing the valves and springs, i had a valve drop at Spa a few years ago, it cost a lot of money to sort the problem.

    If your engine throws a rod, you are looking at another block and crank, if you wait till it goes bang you can add another £1-2K on top.

    That's why i did mine before that happened.

    Roughly
    Pistons and rods £1100
    Valves and springs £600
    Gasket sets £140
    Oil pump £150
    Bearings £175

    There are some other bits as well but you get the idea
     
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  25. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

  26. JJZ

    JJZ

    so do they supply the engine already forged or do they use your engine from your car it’s not cheap is it. i’ll put that on my wish list for christmas lol [emoji12]


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  27. Yeah it's an expensive do on a car worth so little!

    If you can do.the work yourself, it's an expensive hobby but the pleasure you get from the accomplishment is worth it! If you're paying for others to do it, it's really hard to justify, second hand engines can be had for around £600-£800
     
  28. JJZ

    JJZ

    i would love to do it myself but just not that mechanically minded i have heard of people having a go on here tho but you have still got to know what you are doing talk specs and all that.


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  29. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Sure they use your engine, but if there are any bits that can't be reused again will be added to the build cost.

    A mate had his throw a rod, bought another engine, had someone forged that engine for him, it's done the same again, the guy that built it is denying any responsibility, so he's having it rebuilt again by someone esle.

    So far its cost over £9k :openmouth:
     
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  30. JJZ

    JJZ

    don’t rs tuning do this stuff as well forged engines and all that but are they more expensive don’t they get it up to 500bhp laughing laughing........ [emoji16]


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  31. I'll use my own foolishness as an example:

    Bought the car as a joke last May, just a bit of fun, paid £1k roughly.
    Spent another £1k getting it ready for the track (tyres, brakes and cambelt).
    Fast forward to today....
    Probably spent around £7k in total now (inc purchase).

    Yeah, its easy to get carried away LOL!
     
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  32. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    That's as long as the engine you get has a good crank, the block and the head are usable
     
  33. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Personally i would not spend another penny there, i had him map my forged 225 to 320hp i ended going to EFI and they run it up and it was only reading 260hp, Chris mapped it to 320hp and the difference was night and day.
     
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  34. Great write up jukidam!
     
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  35. JJZ

    JJZ

    iv heard great reviews about rs tuning mapping i thought they were the ones to go to [emoji2369]


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  36. JJZ

    JJZ

    just found some photos on facebook some one forging there 250 going for 500bhp 8bfb3e092ff5048d79f51b1289d9864b.png
    c616b07ad44b04b6fec4be4dcb69cc5e.png
    db300f7192a9bfe6a2bb4ed7704194d0.png


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  37. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

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  38. JJZ

    JJZ

    ye i will ian thanks mate


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  39. Thank you @Poppaboost =)

    @ianplymouth why you loose a valve =0 at how much hp?

    I was also thinking about upgrading valves but they was too much in price for me at the moment.

    I would Listen what Arthur says about max rpm but I don't Want to risk too much. My block can't been bore more wider :tearsofjoy:
     
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