I'm really hoping someone on here has some insight into this issue because I'm completely out of ideas. I've recently been trying to figure out why the speaker in my drivers door doesn't work when the radio/CD is on. First thing I tried was swapping the drivers door speaker to the passenger side to see if the speaker itself was at fault, which it wasn't because it works when it's in the passenger door. The speaker in the passenger door doesn't work when it's in the driver door. So, both speakers work on the passenger side and neither work on the drivers side. So, the issue must be in the drivers door loom somewhere right? Well, I checked for continuity between the speaker connector and the main door loom connector, no issues there. I then tested to see if the speaker connector in the drivers side door was receiving any power when the radio is turned on, which it was. In fact the voltage readings on both sides are exactly the same. I was pretty confused at this point, so the last thing I checked was the back of the radio to see if there was any loose connections, which there wasn't. And that basicallly brings us up to date with where I am on this issue, I'm totally stumped. Any help or suggestions would be very appreciated. Cheers
It will be in the drivers door loom 100% I had this issue and managed to sort it. Pulled loom back and had a fiddle. Best thing to do is have stereo on and tug all the wires and the one which is faulty you should hear a crackle from the speaker Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
When you measured the voltage at the speaker was the connector actually plugged into the speaker or pulled out with the probes in the connector? For a valid test you need to be measuring the signal when its loaded in a realistic way - speakers have a low nominal impedance (resistance), where a normal multimeter works by having an extremely high resistance. A circuit like this could show continuity when unloaded but breakdown when given a load. This could be due to a partial break in a wire, poor connection of a terminal pin or a fault in the output stage of the amplifier in the head unit. One quick and dirty test you could do to check the wiring would be to connect an AA battery to the appropriate negative terminal of the audio loom connector and BRIEFLY brush the appropriate positive terminal over the other end of the battery. If a noise comes out of the speaker the fault is more likely to do with the electronics, although the only way to confirm would be to swap the speaker terminals left to right (not easy without the correct tool) and hear if the fault swaps to the other speaker.
When I tested the voltage, the speaker was unplugged with the probes in the speaker connector. I should have mentioned in my original post that there was some corrosion on some of the pins that the main door loom connector plugs into on the car body. I cleaned them up as best I could but access is limited even with the door as wide open as it will go. The speaker still doesn't work after doing that.
My bet would be wiring, specifically that corroded connector and as explained the speaker needs to be plugged in to measure the signal for a valid test. I'm not familiar with your specific door connector, but one possible fix without using specialist tools would be to follow the basic concept detailed below. Although before that I'd patch a wire temporarily from the back of the stereo to the speaker to confirm this fixes the problem. (Apologies for this blokes annoying high piched sing-song voice )
Cheers for the replies mate. I'm fairly sure the connector design on the Megane will prevent me from doing what is shown in that video. I'm gunna have another go at it tomorrow so I'll post some pics of the connector then.
