265 engine forging

Hi Guys
Just wondering if anyone is interested in my next in my next project.

Before Christmas i stripped out the engine to get it forged, the car has now done 115k miles and i'm getting a bit worried about how long its going going to be before its going to throw a rod through the block, a mates went at 48k and cost him a lot of time and a shit load of money.
I have already had to recover my last car (225) from Belgium and again from Snetterton (last straw, track day), so i thought it was better to get it forged before it happens.

Drove the car into the workshop and the engine was on the floor about 4hrs later.

Do you want me to carry on ????

 

Okay here goes
IMG_20191228_165802 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

Not the first time the engine has been out, changed the clutch last year, also took the cat out, as i was going to get it remapped.
Turns out i couldn't get a rolling road slot that fell in line with a track day at Oulton Park or Anglesey, it's a long way for me to EFI, so wanted to combine it with a track day to make the trip worth while, i have done the trip before with the 225, left at 7am, drove to Runcorn, 4 +hrs on the rollers and drove home, Got home at 4am, never again, plan was to have the remap, track day the following day and then drive home.

So, i had my local garage refit the cat for me for a very silly cheap price and its been back in all this year.

I have done the Nurburgring 4 times this year, 3 trips to Spa, Snetterton, Donington, Silverston Etc, etc, etc, since i bought the car in August 2018 i have done at least 20 trackdays if not more.

Now i'm getting worried and expecting it to go bang, i was at Snetterton when a mates engine threw a rod, his engine had only done 58k miles, Jamies also went at a low speed so i was panicking a bit, my 225 was fitted with a 250 engine, i had a reasonable amount of problems with that, it ran a big end at Thruxton, the hybrid turbo had problem at Spa, later in the year, it dropped a valve at Spa, then threw a cambelt after the rebuild after the broken valve episode and the final thing was the turbo totally shat itself at Snetterton (the 225's last trackday) the day after i bought the 265.

To be honest, this has been the most reliable Megane i have owned, it's not used as a daily, i drive it to the track, rag it and drive home, 3rd gear did go, well very difficult to use at Snetterton, so i bought a used gearbox from Ebay and got the guys in the garage up the road to fot it for me (again for a silly price) i love them

So as the track day season is over (for me) i thought it was time to get this sorted.

So here goes

 

First glance, very surprised by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Head removed and sort of feared the worst, was expecting a lot of carbon build up, or funny burn patterns on the pistons, this is so clean i cant understand it.

 

boring marks by Ian Austin, on Flickr

You can still see the original boring marks in the cylinder walls, i know this engine has never been apart before, as the car was a one owner before me and i have its full history.

 

Crank by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Next was to pull the sump off, the bearings have to be warn, this has spent most of its life bouncing off the limiter in my ownership, it's not my fault (honest) my 225 i could here when it was getting close to the limiter, this thing i can hardly here the engine, i also set the alarm to 400rpm before the limiter and still don't here it, that bleep is way to quite.

But was very surprised by how good everything was looking.

 

big end bearing shell by Ian Austin, on Flickr

This is the worst bearing i could find in the whole set, that includes the main bearings, i do do oil changes after every 3 track days, so i think this procedure has been worth it.

 

so today i went and visited my local engineering company (Paul Inch) i knew his dad 35 years ago they build race engines for Mini's, Not the new shit but the old A series stuff, he checked over the block and crank for me and gave it the all clear to fit all standard size components.
no wear in the liners or on the crank, result, no grinding or boring required saving money.

came home and ordered some Iasa pistons and PEC rods, he's getting me some ACL bearings.

So the cleaning and rebuilding will start soon

will update as things turn up

 

I think some have been a bit tender, but i have beaten mine a lot and it's like new, my 250 engine that was fitted into my 225 was from a crashed car, so i think that where the problems started, the sump had a hole in it that you could put your hand in, after seeing some crash video's, bet they slammed the throttle and it was bouncing off of the limiter without any oil for a short time.

Should of checked, but there you go, life is a learning curve

 

Yes i'm sure i was a bit unlucky with the 225, but there you go

I have a turbo to fit, but i'm not sure it ill get fitted this year, i'm having problems finding someone to make an adaptor for me.

ohhh iv'e said to much

 

oil pump by Ian Austin, on Flickr

was also very surprised how good this is, i did a oil pump conversion on a mates Audi A4 2.0 diesel, (known fail) at around 100k, when i pulled it apart the teeth were like razors the chain was slacker than i don't know what, chain breaks and the engine is toast, so a new oil pump and chain kit are also on order.
Not sure i need it but its all stripped now.

Just as a matter of interest, Audi wanted £1100 for the kit and £1000 to do the work

 

Way better than i expected, on track it gets hammered, I've hit the limiter so may times it's embarrassing.

I change the oil after every third trackday and use ELF sport 9 5w30

 

Seems to have worked though, perhaps changing often has helped.

Will check tomorrow but i'm sure its that spec

 

IMG_20200105_132056 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Bit of cleaning and painting today.

Back to work tomorrow, will be doing evenings only for the next couple of weeks

 

Pistons and rods are in but still waiting for the bearings to turn up, i think the guy i ordered them from has forgot, so i ordered a set elsewhere and looks like there going to be here tomorrow.

Just been cleaning and painting in the mean time

 

Yes that or the 5w40 stuff they also sell, think i have mainly used the 5w40

Most oil bought in bulk is cheaper

 

Go for it, or you can wait till a rod wants to see some daylight and then add another couple of grand for another block and crank, that's why i'm doing mine now.

 

They tried to deliver my bearings today, so will pick them up in the morning now.

It's given rain on Sunday so a day in the workshop it will be, just waiting on the valves and springs then all the bits will me here.

Will add some pics on Sunday.

 

I have a spare R26 block if your interested

 

old and replacement

I gaped the rings, fitted the rods to the pistons and put the rods in the bores last week, well it was raining

IMG_20200126_102534 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

all fitted
IMG_20200116_145404 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

Today i wanted to carry on as my King bearings turned up yesterday

Had to file the tangs off of all 10 halves on the main bearings

IMG_20200126_110921 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

IMG_20200126_112106 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Big ends are okay to use as supplied as the PEC rods have the cut outs in them for the tangs

 

fitted the top halves to the main and big end bearings
IMG_20200126_120138 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

Then applied some sticky oil (Race engine rebuild lube) to the bearings to stop them being dry in the first moments of start up.

Lowered in the crank, more lube and then fitted the main bearing caps, with ARP grease added to the bolt threads and under the heads and torqued, turn the crank at each tightening to make sure the bearings are not binding, then add more lube to the big end journals and caps.
Add more ARP grease to the big end bolts threads and under the heads and then torque them up.

Once that was done, i fitted the new oil pump and torqued that down.

IMG_20200126_133912 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

 

You have to seal number 1 main bearing cap

IMG_20200126_134939 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

And the sealer should start coming out of the gap all the way down.
Especially on the inside.

IMG_20200126_134948 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Put the front cover and seal holder on,fitted the splash guard then fitted new rubber gasket to the sump pan and tightened that down.
Bottom end is done.

IMG_20200126_145724 by Ian Austin, on Flickr

Also stripped out the old valves and springs from the cylinder head as they are going to be replaced with Supertec valves and springs, but there not here yet

 

Hi Mardgee
If there is any other pics or info you want just let me know