Clutch damper removal

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by arch, Oct 23, 2018.

  1. Guys had a search and can't find it but think I seen something about a kit to remove the clutch damper which is prone to leeking did I imagine it
     
  2. Mark Black iirc @ Midlands Reno
     
  3. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Ktec have the line aswell now
     
    Genty likes this.
  4. Yep Ktec is where I got mine from. At the time it was the cheapest and got it on next day delivery.
     
  5. Thanks guys appreciate it will get one ordered from ktec
     
  6. Bumping an old thread but Mark was having some problems getting hold of these, I was going to order one from K-Tec but then realised it's just a rebranded HEL line

    HEL sell the line (exactly as Ktec with the rubber gromets and everything) for £10 cheaper.
    Just an FYI for anyone looking for one in the future - CCK125 is the HEL part number
     
    D11nyd likes this.
  7. What's the procedure to replace the damper ?
     
  8. Unclip the the old one, pull off the top one first, push in the new one, disconnect the old bottom one and when fluid comes out the end of the replacement one push it in, just push it in to the first click, when fluid comes out of the bleed port push fully home.

    If you think its a bit spongy, push the clutch down and wedge it down for a couple of hours, then release the peddle slowly.
     
  9. Many thanks
     
  10. And what does the removal of the clutch damper?
     
  11. Stops it failing (leaking)
     
  12. I thought improves gear shift
     
  13. not as far as i have felt
     

  14. in theory, without a damper should be better! at least my Honda was much better without him
     
  15. especially on high revs
     
  16. Deleted min a couple of days ago simple enough job once the battery box was out lol
    Bottom bolt on the thermostat housting now that's a little cracker lol
     
  17. ...ain't that the truth
     
  18. Has anyone got a link to the modified pipe, noticed mine was leaking today
     
  19. super fast one day delivery from Hel IMG-3732.JPG
     
  20. Exactly the same kit as Ktec but think it's cheaper no idea what the 4 black clips are for
     
  21. £30 v’s £47. Shame on them, clips are for securing pipe across gearbox
     
  22. What does this pipe do? When is it expected to fail?
     
  23. Replacement is actually hose and replaces woeful Reno pipe with vulnerable damper device that’s prone to weeping after some years
     
  24. Ok,Cheers.
     
  25. Main issue is when damper leaks and reservoir level drops folks usually think it’s brake issue as damper is well hidden, replacing pipe deletes this
     
  26. Ok, my car is 2014 on about 45,000 miles I think. Will keep an eye on it.
     
  27. Is it an easy job to replace, how long does job take?
     
  28. Main issue is when damper leaks and reservoir level drops folks usually think it’s brake issue as damper is well hidden, replacing pipe deletes this
    hose replacement easy but getting battery tray out can be challenging
     
  29. IMG_0608.JPG IMG_0607.JPG
    Can't see any need for them or where they would be fitted there ate already two fixings in place to connect the hose to
     
  30. Battery tray needs to be removed to fit the quick shift item I take it?
     
  31. Yes not needed unless existing holders have perished, liking the ant-rub protection v nice
     
  32. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Also cause my lack of clutch at Donny last year, which is frustrating as I could of had something sorted and been back out [emoji1787]
     
  33. yes That was disappointing and costly, you ever find cause of rod failure ?
     
  34. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Not inspected the old engine yet but it'll be getting stripped down anyway as a few people want bits
     
  35. Add this on the list too do. Does anything need bleeding after swapping the pipe over
     
  36. Yes the clutch need bleeding

    When I did it I removed the old pipe, inserted the new pipe into the bulkhead end quickly so as not to lose too much fluid. I then let gravity push fluid through the new pipe until its started running out and then inserted it into the gearbox end. Then bled the clutch.
     
  37. Just a quickie, sorry to hijack. I've removed the standard item at the bulkhead end, but at the box end, I'm gonna stuggle. It seems the clip is upside.............have you guys got under the car to remove it?
     
  38. I had the undertray off so done mine from underneath, was replacing all the rubber brake lines at same time so used a pressure bleeder to bleed brakes and clutch was simple that way.
     

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