Amp and sub installation

i might be wrong but that amp wont be any good for a sub, its tiny its more designed to be a upgrade for the headunit amp for the standard speakers

 

The sub goes in the spare wheel well

Earth - you can get from a bolt in the boot somewhere
Live - you have to run from the battery through the rubber gromet behind the glovebox (pain in the ass job) then down the passenger side of the car into the boot

Signal - you'll have to use the high input wires as the standard head unit doesn't have RCA output - so you have to remove both the rear "door/quarter cards" to get to the speakers, then there's an unused connector for a rear tweeter that you can cut off and wire into the high input wires for the sub

It took me a day, most of that was doing the power cable, and half the clips for the rear cards break and/or fall off into the bodywork somewhere and you have to fish them out. It's a shitty job


The amp you can fit in the glovebox - but you need a harness adaptor - and it amplifies all the speakers and the signal going to the subwoofer. I didn't bother - I just fitted tweeters in the dash where the holes and cables are already there for them, then put a similar powered subwoofer in the spare wheel well, sounds pretty nice.

 

Following. This is the exact set up I was/ will buy.

 

I think it's some weird ford adapter - but like I say I've not installed the amp

There is a guide here - https://rsmegane.com/threads/250-26...x-removal-and-pioneer-gm-d1004-fitting.14928/

 

that 'spare wheel' sub is active so dont need amp (its already in with speaker) just 12v power and pre-amp feed from head unit

 

Just fitted the same amp along with a sub in the boot and is a cracking little amp. No problem working with the sub. Can I ask where you connected the remote wire so that sub only comes on when stereo is on.

 

There is no pre-amp feed from head unit. These subs use high-level output (standard speaker connectors)

The sub I went with had a switch for high-level inputs that then doesn't require the remote wire, it just detects a signal on the inputs.

The pioneer does need a remote connection but literally any 12v when ignition is on source will work fine, easiest way is probably to find a fuse that's live when the ignition is running and use a piggy back fuse off of that.
Or if you want to take the head unit out you can just jump off of the switched live connection for that

 

The amp works fine and plugged into a quad lock so it only kicks into life when stereo is switched on and turns off when stereo is turned off. We spliced into the remote wire on the harness going into the amp but does not work. What colour wire is the switched live likely to be? Taken stereo out is not a problem.

 

Sorry for the thread resurrection RSPhil - regarding getting the power from the battery, what did you have to remove in the engine bay to access the loom grommet?
Looking at it, it looks like air filter box and possibly NSF wheel off and arch liner out. Does that sound about right?

 

Just the airbox and Glovebox, just make sure that when you push your screwdriver or other implement in through the grommet, push straight through or up slightly, if you catch a wire its a ass of a job to get the loom out to repair

 

Thanks - and further research suggests the battery tray needs to come out to access the airbox, still, I genuinely have nothing better to do

 

Hi guys, sorry to resurrect this thread, but what did you guys use as a remote connection?

Also, would it be possible to use this fuseblade instead of wiring to the battery as it's common to use these for dashcams?
I'm currently looking for Kenwood, JBL Basspro Sl2/Nano and Vibe active subs.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuse...bzPRyQXXgdx2X1tX9ZciZo_JpVY52hvRoCYJMQAvD_BwE

TIA

 

Yeh i used two of them for my set up, one to power me two underseats (2x7amp max)and one to switch the two remote cables (2x0.5amp max).

if you search for dash cams on here, someone did the leg work of which fuses in cars fuse box are permament or ignition switched.

 

You're running two underseat amps ??

Where did you mount them and what ones are you using? I'm thinking of behind the rear seats but afraid the bass won't be enough.

 

Two under seat subs, running some old pioneers you cant get anymore. Basically theres two oval holes under the recaro seats (back), (sub facing down). That line up with the brackets on the sub. Fitted some blind nuts, which are abit crap, got some jack nuts to replace them with later on, and bolt straight on, only problem is you loose abit of height adjustability due to the bars under the recaro. Fine with the passenager side, but ive had to pump seat down on driver to the point of bending the one bar, so now it wont slide forward unless i pumo it back up.

 

I initially used one of those piggybacks on the 12v "cigar lighter" circuit fuse to power my small Alpine sub based on the amp rating for that circuit being well within its draw rating, but the GM-D1004 Pioneer amp that was getting its power from the standard radio circuit was sensing too much current draw when it was playing loud and going into protection mode. You could actually see the power LED'S on the amp and sub dull in time with the music. This was solved by connecting the subwoofer direct to the battery with the cable provided by Alpine.

My initial plan was to connect the sub to one of the substantial positive cables that supply the fuse box but the loom was a bit tight. With hindsight given the difficulty removing the battery tray I should probably have persisted with this option.

To keep things logical and to ensure all the audio components were active I used a piggyback on the radio circuit fuse as a remote trigger for the sub. This circuit goes to sleep after a couple of minutes of locking or about 10 minutes of inactivity with the ignition card removed.

This is on a 2016MY car.