Megane R26/225 uprated fuel pump options

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Danith, May 13, 2017.

  1. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Another update, was going to wait until it was finished but couldnt :sunglasses:

    Got my rail back today, sorted the bracket that was moved the wrong way in error, I spent a bit of time reworking the edges, its fairly thin sheet that the body of the rail is made from and has distorted slightly under the welding heat, but its good enough, can see a small indent where the original regulator housing was previously, nothing major.

    I rebored the slot on the right hand side bracket, to give me a little more room to play with when fitting to the injectors.
    Fitted it to my manifold, it now fits and looks to be in line with the injector ports :sunglasses:

    Anyway its now primed up and drying waiting to be painted - probably tomorrow.

    Couple of photos below, I am quite happy, added the fitment in for show :smiley:

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    ewant81, rTEM and ianplymouth like this.
  2. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    Injectors are on the way mate :laughing:
     
    Big Uno likes this.
  3. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Thanks mate appreciated!!
     
  4. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    No Problem :sunglasses:
     
  5. Rail looks really good. Take some pictures of how you lay the fuel lines up and down the car. Would be good to see how well they fit [emoji846]
     
    Big Uno likes this.
  6. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Sure will mate!
     
    ewant81 likes this.
  7. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Rail painted and fitted, just need to figure out the best spot for the regulator housing now, there is not much room so may need to run it away from the rail. Ideally you want the fpr as close to the rail exit as possible.

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    SiMonster and rTEM like this.
  8. Does anyone one know the thread type of the fuel line connectors under the car? Where the line changes from metal to nylon?
     
  9. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    Ill be taking mine off soon so can let you know if nobody else knows.
     
  10. Cheers mate, that would be great!
     
  11. I have fitted the DW65c, it is not a direct drop-in. Had to file away a bit of the casing of the pump, to squeeze it in. Unfortunately the pump died within 200 kilometers.. Will reach out to DW, hope they'll grant me warranty even though I modified the pumps' housing..
     
  12. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    yours is a mk3?
     
  13. My bad, yeah it's a MK3.
     
  14. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Why did you change pump on the MK3?
     
  15. On the dyno we noticed that above ~5500rpm the injectors duty-cycle remained stable, but the AFR was dropping. So even though the injectors still had plenty headroom, the pump wasn't able to deliver the required fuel rate.

    Reading some posts on Facebook of people claiming the OEM pump degrades in pressure around the 150-180k kilometer mark, seemed to support this theory; my car has 210k kilometers on it.

    Last weekend on the dyno, with the DW65c freshly installed we didn't experience any issues with fueling. As nothing else was changed in regard to the cars hardware configuration, it is safe to say the pump was indeed causing the issue.
     
  16. The garage fitted a new OEM pump, great communication...
    Will need to pull it out again and swap for a better one. Any recommondations for an other pump than the DW65c?
     
  17. There are a few other pumps out there, but what are you looking to gain? The OEM pump (when new) is more than up for supplying the required pressure. The only thing you might gain is increased flow, but this usually would require an increase in supply current.

    As for pumps that fit the mk3 sender, I am not sure. I’m not aware of many people doing this yet on the mk3.
     
  18. Simple, the OEM pump is almost 3 times the price of the DW65c. Plus the OEM needs to run at 100% to provide the required fuel rate, the uprated one has more headroom/ margin.

    DIfferences, the small one is the OEM:
    WhatsApp Image 2018-05-04 at 08.50.19 (2).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2018-05-04 at 08.50.19.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2018-05-04 at 08.50.19 (1).jpeg
     
    ewant81 likes this.
  19. I am surprised the OEM pump is so much more expensive!

    Maybe with the measurements you can ask some of the suppliers if they have something that will fit. Either Deatschworks or Glencoeltd might be able to help?
     
  20. I am surprised I seem to be among the first who are challenged with this. The 'new' OEM pump doesn't seem to be up the challenge either, extremely noticeable around the 5k rpm mark :-/
    Will keep on searching and reach out to DW and Glencoeltd.
     
    ewant81 likes this.
  21. Big Uno

    Big Uno RSM Trader

    What is the spec of the OE pump? Does anybody know the model variant?
     
  22. Interesting read this thread. Know it's a bit old but thought I'd add my experience.

    I've taken my sender unit apart twice without breaking the bottom part. The bottom part just clips on, do not screw since there's a plastic connector which lines up between the two halves. Mine is a Phase 2 unit.

    I took two rc airplane electric propellers and wedged the blades tip in between the top and lower housing starting at the two notched areas. Once the prop blade is in quite a bit start sliding it around the bottom unit, like opening a can. Get another blade in and start again, at some point it opens far enough and then just pops off to one side (watch out it still hold hold hold and then suddenly releases).

    My '06 F1 has a fuel filter under the rear left wheel so when my pump died yesterday I took the sender unit apart and removed the strainer filter part form the bottom unit, cut the plastic which holds the strainer there with a side cutter and fitted an aftermarket strainer to the pump. Had to cut the strainers' connector to the pump down so it can fit the whole sender unit when closed again.

    The strainer is needed to prevent small solid particles from entering the pumps' wheel(a disc with small teeth looks like a gear) which can then get stuck resulting in a pump that won't run at all.

    I had a bosch unit(some universal code) in for the past 2 years but it seems to have failed due to two reasons, the stock strainer was so clogged with grime that I could not blow through it resulting in pump unable to suck in fuel and/or maybe creating a hard vacuum putting more load on the pump. Second my fuel filter was also very clogged, after replacing it I could barely blow through it while I could breath through the new one.

    The pump I fitted yesterday is a cheap straight fit Autozone universal pump which I originally bought for my brothers Chevy Spark but it turned out to be something else and not the fuel pump. So had it in the garage and no cash in wallet so used it. Its 3.8bar but unsure of the lph flow rate. It works fine though, revs right through the range without any hiccups and car feels much more responsive after fitting this pump. Suspect my biggest issue was the clogged strainer and fuel filter.

    I'd strongly suggest installing in line fuel filters on your cars. My fuel filter got clogged up in under 15,000kms. Hopefully your fuel in the UK is cleaner than here in SA.
     
    psomario likes this.
  23. Has anyone fitted an aftermarket fuel pump and housing assembly? On eBay for £80 or so.
    Complete drop in replacement unit.
     
  24. Hi Mark,

    This was an Ebay unit. (I don't know the guy just found his Meg videos):
     

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