The Yellow Duck - Trophy 265

I thought I should make it a new topic ( kind of DIY guide).

So, for all the weekend people, wondering what to do on their cars, here is a small project.

- lift up the ass of Meggy on ramps
- Remove the exhaust tip chrome part as shown on the pictures ( 4x clips on both sides, help yourself with a flat screwdriver to lift them up, since it's a relatively dirty area )
- remove the chrome foil layer by using a safety blade cutter and a hair-dryer to warm up the layer (as the actual exhaust gasses are doing while driving). Peel it by hand as well ( if it's soft enough at certain places )
- sand it with paper : P60,P80,P120,P150,P800 - It get's really smooth and soft
.....Look at your watch, and realise it's Friday and you are hungry... Continue tomorrow

 

Ok, since my messy picture upload was sorted out, I can continue with the spraying process:
- 5-6 coats of heat resistant spray( in my case matte black, let it dry for 15-20min.
-Once you have a good base, apply 6-7 coats of Plastidip spray. Also matte black for me with 5-10min in between for best result.

Now, you are helping the plastidip not getting hot by having the heat resistant spray as first layer....
- go for a small test-drive making sure nothing is peeling off.

-put the final result on the forum

 

So, today i got my lower engine mount change. The vibra technics is quite good quality for the price.

The original: ( looks and IS massive piece of thing compared to the uprated one ) .



The original is off the car after 3 bolts



And after about 30min. The new one is in place.






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Today was time for the upper engine rubber mount. I got my hands on a Powerflex black series one .The small cable passing next to the expansion tank seemed to be under pressure, but after fitting everything, no pressure was applied to it. It will be easier if the fuel supply black line is removed so you can re-fit the whole piece at once. The reason for white grease specifically is due to the fact it's a good protection from high heat and withstands moisture. On top of that is good for a friction-free contact. The feedback in the cabin is a bit noisier, but very very stiff and direct. Once throttle is applied, the feeling in the seat is sudden. I recommend it for both daily and track owners.

This part is compatible with those OEM number.
OEM Part Number: 112100035R

OEM Part Number: 112100057R

OEM Part Number: 112100039R

A picture of the rubber mount fitted:

 

No. This insert is just an additional rubber inside the original. The original construction remains unchanged. You just make it harder with less to 0 movement.

 

Yes, i removed it from the engine bay fitted the rubber and placed it back. I've used white grease to push it easier into the mount frame. ( which is huge btw ) once in your hands.

Here the instructions from Powerflex:

 

Yes I did supported it with a jack, under the engine, using a rubber/wooden piece of block between the metal jack and the oil pan. you anway need to lift it up just a bit....normally it's a very dangerous place to put a jack, but for that light purpose it was fine. the aluminium oil pan cover is strong enough for that..

 

How do you do it, when the engine drops after you loose the big bolts on the engine/frame sides ?




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Oh ok. That makes sense then. Cause mine are soft and they just give up once the big frame is loose.




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I think this is one of the smallest and at the same time the coolest updates this month , dim-lights changed with LED ones, and reg. plate ones changed (with white vision xenon effect ) as well..

1. remove the headlights ( not really remove, just loosen them up a bit, so you ca slide them out )
a) - two screws on both sides, and the metal frame holding it back . (PULL UP the metal stick/frame piece )




2. remove the OEM w 5w style bulb carefully, since there are a lot of small cables around.
3. fit the LED one
4. Enjoy











REG. plates :
1. remove number plate from the car, since it's a bit on the way of the bulb frame.


2. unclip the bulb frame carefully on one side with a plastic pry tool ( to avoid scratching )
3. fit new Xenon bulbs








4. Enjoy

 

Today was time for the short shifter. Thanks to 4h-tech of course
The installation guide is online, so no need for me to rant about the steps.

The only remark i have is, that the hole on the double pins, in the 4h-tech part, is a bit smaller, so the sliding pins( both big/small) are really difficult to slide in. I would recommend a 2.xx or a 3.0mm pin oppose to the oem one being 3,2mm.




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Continuing with my car build, today i've installed the Forge Motorsport blow off kit. User manual is online as well, so no steps needed here. The only remark is that all those small clamps are pain in the ass to adjust nice and tight. I've also installed the turbo inlet pipe by FM. Quite the quality for that price.

Here the items for all MK3 versions:

https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Blow_Off_Valve_for_Renault_Megane_RS250265275--product--786.html

https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/S...enault_Megane_RS250265275--product--1302.html

A photo of the work done. Tomorrow will be sound testing time

 

Today it was time for the interior bits:

Will send all to Royalsteeringwheels guys.

I chose the black alcantara for all parts with yellow stitching. I like their work quality and seen also some people here on the forum using them as well.

So the BEFORE part:







The after part coming soon....


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In the meantime all plastic parts arrived from Renault dealership. Matte black is the colour. I think piano black would be too much of a contrast compared to the rest of the interior.




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to be honest, i think the main reason is that once all parts are piano black will not contrast good with the airbag. i saw a wheel dressed in black alcantara with yellow stripe and stitching and it looked quite bad and cheap. once i receive the wheel back, will post to see the difference ....

 

So, after a long waiting the parts came back from the UK: The quality is just amazing ! I am extremely happy that I chose royal steering wheels for this job.



Tomorrow is fitting time !! Pictures follow


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Here are the promised pics of the alcantara bits from the interior. Props to www.Royalsteeringwheels.com for the amazing job.







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This came in today by post: next week hopefully will be installing it

Why i chose Wagner: it’s one of the few ones, that are NOT blocking the major air flow going to the coolant radiator, which is anyway not a great one.

I din’t know how much is the stock one yet , but the wagner one is 8,6kg or 18,96 pounds .

Im curious to see how much is the stock one..






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While having the wagner cooler on standby, the plastic bits from the heaters arrived. All black nice and clean




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The original colours for a reference


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Today was time for the 3" CGR Decat..... It's not an easy job.

- remove 2 front tyres
- drain gearbox oil.(don't forger to have fresh oil ready) as well as the new ring for the drain plug.(don't re-use the old one)
- afterwards drive shaft (don't remove front suspension from upper turrets) (drop links /wishbone bolts/hub are enough)
- Remove exhaust from the back ( remove black undercover of the bumper for easier move of the pipe itself.
- remove 2 lambda sensors ( upper next to turbo, and lower next to gearbox/driveshaft )
- remove 6 bolts (use WD-40 if bolts are stuck, helps a lot if you wait 1-2 min in between) holding the stock cat
- In Total ( 3 up and 3 down ) * use C-spanner (ring ) key for the 3rd lower bolt on the upper side of the stock cat.
- remove the stupid OEM cat and throw it in the garbage
- place your new Decat using also the new seal rings/gasket in case your turbo back is not stock
- refit all stuff.
- Visit a remap guy/garage and get a tune !

Go for a ride and enjoy the boost

 

Intercooler is ready ! Amazing quality and perfect fitting !

 

The Wagner is really the one to get in my opinion. Their website gives you a decent install manual once the following stuff are removed,
To sum up:
- remove front wheels, unclip under wheel plastic arches , (only 2-3 plastic click-on bolts, not the whole thing ).
- remove 2 screws at the joint between bumper and wheel arch. ( they are under the fender itself.)
- remove 5-6 small screws on top of engine ( between front lights )
- remove front lights itself.
- remove 2x bottom end screws under engine guard and engine guard itself as well.
- unclip pipes for headlight washers
- remove bumper
- unclip stock IC from oem pipes ( loose clamps)
- remove air duct on top of coolant radiator
- place Wagner according to their manual
- place back in reverse order

Enjoy your low air intake temp labor time : with some small chat and work email breaks on my phone circa 4 hours !

 

Some weight info on the stock intercooler and the stock cat.

STOCK CAT: 4,4 KG
STOCK IC: 3,5 KG




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Some small updates today:



Gt performance cooler-turbo pipe in black made from harder silicone .








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49,00 Euro ( incl. shipping to Belgium )