Hi all, I just sent my cab into the dealer for a service and upon return it feels slower (doesn't it always) feels like I run out of boost in third.. Does anybody know what the standard is with a stock RS265 (in sport mode) from 1st it goes up to around 0.6 and I have to change, then 2nd it drops during the shift and goes straight up to about 0.8 and holds, then into third (the important one) it drops during shift and then climbs straight to 1050 and holds. So the question is, what boost are people getting in 3rd. Much appreciated for any replies.
Sorry that I don't know the specifics of the RS265, but I try to help with what I can. That you have lower boost on first and second is fairly typical; Renault actually programs some of their petrol turbo ECUs such that the max. boost pressure is lowered in 1st and 2nd gear, and obviously there's also the fact that there is less load on the engine on lower gears which may result in lower boost as the turbochanger needs a good load to work against to provide full boost. However, I do not know if Renault did limit boost on the first gears on the 265. It would not surprise me if they did as they have done this on many engines. Full boost going just above the 1 bar mark - again, sorry that I don't know what the 265 is originally supposed to be making but the number you are quoting does not sound far off at all. The older 225 engines make max boost of 0.9 bar although officially it's 0.8 bar, so counting in the extra power of the 265 (main difference in the engine vs. a 225 is VVT and a slightly bigger turbo + naturally it has different mapping) it would seem logical it would be making just over 1 bar max boost. Hopefully someone with a stock 265 can chime in and confirm if I'm right or wrong here.
Thanks for the feedback Turboj I’ve been keeping a closer look at the boost, doing 3rd gear runs on the highway, the boost climbs rapidly to 1050 then drops back slightly to around 950 and holds there till I either take my foot of the gas or gear up, so at least it holds bust, no creep or loss. I did take a look at the actuator thinking perhaps the Reno guys may have slackened the actuator rod, but much to my surprise the actuator arm was extremely tight. Around 10 turns of pre-load on the actuator arm... not sure if this is ok but doubt it would cause lower boost, perhaps greater boost and boost creep if anything. Will wait to see if anybody with a stock 265 can confirm the stock boost figure NB the figures quoted are as per the R-Link telemetry display. Would also like to know what the stock megs are running via the actuator, I would assume around three turns of pre-load would be norm, and not 10
Do you have the rs monitor, I had something similar but only because it was in snow mode instead of sport or extreme.
Check if you can move the actuator arm. Mine got stuck and thats what caused the issue for me. Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk
Hi, yes I have the RS monitor, the figures are with extreme map option, and in race mode. The actuator rod does move slightly, I reduced from 10 turns out to 7, and I noted the boost starts to drop of through 3rd gear... so looks like min pre-load is 8 turns or more
The waste gate actuator will not directly determine the max. boost on these engines or on any modern EFI engines as the boost control is achieced by utilizing an electronically controlled solenoid valve which is fitted between the pressure source (inlet manifold, boost pipe or similar) and the actuator is in turn controlled by the ECU's boost map. Typically the "gate pressure" will be roughly half of the maximum boost in the original setup. You might start to "bleed boost" if the actuator preload is too low though; the exhaust gas pressure inside the turbine's inlet area will then start to force the wastegate open even before the solenoid is open as the pre-tension of the actuator is too low to withstand the exhaust gas pressure. By having the actuator arm adjusted "wrong" you can get boost pressure bleed as described, but on the other end of the spectrum you might also get undesirable overboost especially under high engine loads as the movement range of the actuator arm doesn't leave enough room for the actual wastegate "flap" to get fully open. This can lead to serious engine damage because the built-in fail safe systems of the engine are not able to function properly. Unless your engine has modified induction, intercoolin, exhaust, head work done, the factory setting on the wastegate actuator should always be the preferred setup as it is the ECU with the solenoid valve doing the actual adjusting of the boost the engine is allowed to make under different loads. Typically on most Renaults I've seen dyno plots of have the max boost in the mid range, slightly tapering off towards the top end but holding steady-ish compared to many of the direct ignition engines we have now. Most modern engines will always be running less pressure at redline than they do in the mid range; this is due to turbo sizing, inlet/exhaust system optimization and factory ECU tuning where maximum tractability and system stability is almost always preferred instead of highest possible hp figure. P.S. I do hope someone can tell us what the max. boost setting normally is on the 265 engine.
Wow that’s a great write-up I think a few people would want to tighten the actuator rod to get a sneak boost increase, I’d be scared of breaking something, my concern was that the car felt noticeably slower after visiting the dealer, after looking around for any boost leaks etc I thought I’d take a look at the actuator rod, but again to my surprise this thing was 10 turns tighter than zero load thought perhaps it was overly tightened by the prior owner, I checked to see the impact of decreasing tension, and as per your post, there was not enough tension and boost started bleeding, this was at 7 turns of the actuator, I’ll tighten 1 rotation until it holds boost, which should be at 10 turns I guess if it holds at 8 or 9 turns then I increase the life of the turbo compared to prior setting, for effectively the same boost. Well that’s my understanding at the moment, I’m also thinking that perhaps the diaphragm is worn, hence the setting. Hopefully somebody on the forum with a stock 265 can highlight if there actuator rod is tightened that much ie four threads left showing on the rod. Or if there’s has eg 10 threads showing and boosting 1.2 then I’d be inclined to think that I need a new actuator thanks for the post turbo j
Hi guys. I've been just lurking here quite a long just reading these interesting and excellent posts, but as you are still waiting for an answer to this one maybe I can try. Would you be surprised if I told you that the answer is 1.5 bar in sport mode? Max. boost in Meg 250 is set to 1.3 bar and Meg 225 to 1.2 bar. As an example this one copied from the 265 / 275 Renault press release: ---- 6. ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Mégane Renaultsport 265 is powered by a new-generation 2.0 16V turbocharged engine (F4Rt). With the Renaultsport Dynamic Management in Sport mode, it delivers peak power of 265hp at 5,500rpm and maximum torque of 360Nm at 3,000rpm. With 80% of peak torque available from as low as 1,900rpm, acceleration is smooth and responsive, thanks to a twin-scroll turbocharger and continuously variable intake valve timing. Raising the bar to 265hp has seen maximum turbo pressure increase by 0.2bar to 2.5bar. Changes have also been made to the air intake in line with the higher pressure and running temperatures. Sport mode delivers a 15hp hike in maximum output to 265hp, plus an extra 20Nm of torque. This takes the power-to-weight ratio to an exceptional 191hp per tonne and ramps up performance, too: the 0-62 mph time is brought down to six seconds dead, while maximum speed rises to 158 mph. --- Or this one, page 26: https://www.renaultsport.co.uk/media/2842/renault-sport.pdf
Hi Kimbe, I did highlight the same figures in a different post a while back, ie 2.5 bar, some people said that they are quotting some other figure, and some said the turbos would blow up, anyway I do recall my mk2 RS F1 used to push around 0.6 boost as stock and 1.1 once I was mapped, this was checked by boost gauge, from my perspective I’m not using a boost gauge, I’m looking at the R—link telemetry which shows the boost, not sure where it’s getting the info from but I can at least check apples for apples. If a 265 owner has figured of 2.5 on their R-link then I would think I have a boost leak somewhere. But if they showing eg 1.0 then perhaps my actuator had been overtihhtened by prior owner either way it’s also good to have some frame of reference for other members, if they think something is up, they know what it should be. To be honest everybody with the on-board telemetry should be highlighting all there standard figures eg max intake temp, max boost, etc and we can establish a spreadsheet of what the avg should be for all the displays
In fact I think I’ll create that post with some of the figures, it may or may not be useful stuff lol only prob is I still don’t know what my telemetry max boost should be hitting lol
Ok I think I answered my own question I posted a thread some time back where I asked what max boost was in the rs265 ( sorry I forgot about the post) and some peeps confirmed what they were getting. I confirmed I was hitting 1.2. And queried if I shouldn’t be getting 2.5 as per the media superfloria confirmed he gets 1.25 to 1.3 and 1.4 when mapped. Cristian B with a RS275 confirmed 1.35 stock. so this means I’m just slightly under max boost, but that’s good for me, longer turbo life, and I don’t do track, just enjoy planting the foot where it’s safer
That 2.5 bar pressure quoted is absolute pressure, which means 1.5 bar of boost pressure on top of atmospheric pressure which is as close as makes no difference 1.0 bar. I'm surprised by those factory quotes though as I have seen boost blots and live runs with boost gauge fitted of 225s and they don't seem to reach that 1.2 bar quote mentioned above. 225s running 1.1 bar boost are seen hitting 240 hp+ on the dyno too.. It would be useful if actul drivers of these cars would report the kind of pressures they have measured themselves on stock vehicles and maybe even remapped ones. FWIW wife's Clio III TCe wasn't close to factory figures on dyno either regarding the boost pressures and that car didn't even show any overboost feature being present even though that was very much promoted by Renault when those cars were new. The official figures aren't always in line with reality when it comes to cars, power output and boost etc. They should be close though so it'd be interesting to hear from more people around here. ................ Kimbe, nice to see you here bro Would you mind sharing with us what kind of boost pressures your F4Rt engine is giving currently and what it was making originally, if you don't mind me asking?
*boost plots I don't really like the timing feature of this forum that doesn't allow editing typos off of my posts...
Yeah, been lurking here a while just looking if someone could sell me some cheap Meg 250/265 engine for my Clio . Superfly mentioned this mk2 Meg so let's take another example. I have a mk2 Laguna GT that has basically this same mk2 Megane engine. This following statement can be found from the Renault technical material: "Derived from the engine in the Mégane Renault Sport, the 2.0T for the GT version develops 205hp and gives priority to the pleasure of everyday driving. Thus at least 90% of its maximum torque is available between 2,250 and 5,250rpm. This engine was developed to meet the requirements of D-segment customers, notably in terms of driving pleasure. It is a less radical version of the original, with maximum boost pressure reduced to 2 bars." Before my Lag was mapped I took some measurements with Fastchip RSTuner and the max. boost pressure was pretty much there what was specified by Renault, giving around 1 bar as stock (pic attached if I just get it here). So I don't know how or with what that 0.6 bar was measured that was mentioned by Superfly in earlier post, but to me it sounds to be too low if that supposed to be the maximum achievable pressure. But of course, in generally, those measured values are always dependent on where and how and with what device those were measured, so those can vary a lot. Also had some problems at some point when occasionally boost pressure climbed up too much (roughly 1.4 bar) and ecu went to limp mode. Nowadays it runs near 1.2 bar max.
That's good info right there, kimbe. One thing I just thought of is that some of the irregularities of reported boost pressures might be due to differences in method of measurement. Let's assume one has an accurate analogue boost gauge. It will show noticeably different readings depending on where the boost feed is coming from - for example whether it's coming from before or after the intercooler (!) Where is the factory boost sensor located BTW? If people are running aftermarket tools that measure pressure directly from the inlet manifold, for example, the pressure there will be less than what is produced by the compressor measured right at the compressor outlet. Hmm. Kimbe, do you remember how the boost curve is on your car or how it was when stock - does it hold up until top end and by how much does it drop at redline? Just trying to get some guidelines for when I get the chance to do some data logging on one certain 225.
Not an expert at all, but I think the stock turbo (TD04-14T) does not hold up very well, or at least could always hold up better. It's quite a long since I took any log files, but I managed to dig some old ones. One example attached. Hope it still stays readable. It is a full throttle acceleration using 3rd gear, starting at speed about 40 km/h and ending about 125 km/h. Max. values can be seen on top of the picture. Red line is engine speed, green line is gas pedal position and so on, just like stated on the left side of the image. So max turbo pressure during this acceleration was around 1.24 bar and starts to drop more clearly somewhere close to 5000 rpm. .
Seems you guys know a fair amount, I just trust the tuners product does it’s job my boost gauge on stock mk2 was fitted as per some diy installation guide lol before or after intercooler I honestly have no idea just used T-piece onto a vaccine pipe next to the right of the engine, It was an analogue gauge, I just wanted it so I had an idea if my bov was leaking etc, so although it may not have been predicting the most accurate figure, it could at least give be a before and after.
Just read this are you sure the max boost is 2.5 bar ? That is a very high boost pressure, even on my race Impreza I only ran 2.2 bar when I absolutely had too and normally ran between 1.6 and 2.1 depending on weather conditions and event and that was on a full race engine I would be surprised if these run 2.5 bar but happy to be corrected. Out of interest are the turbo's on the 250 also twin scroll ?
Well, that is what Renault claims, so maybe we just have to trust it. But, like TurboJ stated earlier this 2.5 bar is absolute pressure (atmospheric pressure plus gauge pressure) which is about 1.5 bar boost pressure. Even in Renault material there are sometimes mentioned 2,5 bar and sometimes 1,5 bar when talking about the same thing (max. boost pressure). So let's not get confused about these differently given values. And also that this pressure was given to 265/275, 250 should be 0.2 bar lower as Renault says. Yep, twin scroll turbos.
That makes more sense, that's marketing blurb the real figures then will be 1.3 and 1.5 bar which is more normal. What sort of figures are people remapping to on none forged internals ?
The torque curves on these are pretty good with a better turbo the curves could be changed dramatically interesting. Are your internals and gearbox standard Jamie and what turbo are you using ?
Standard internals. Turbo is a TD04HL 20t, mapped by EFI who keep the torque quite flat whereas other tuners it peaks then drops off
I had an Owen Developments GT3076 which was modded with a bigger compressor wheel and very high spec internals and the way it made boost was unbelievable. I made over 2.0 bar of boost by 2650 rpm. On a similar spec smaller turbo with a twin scroll input it would be mental.
Hi guys, so after ensuring my actuator was where it’s supposed to be, and my boost is correct I then fitted a blanking plate and cone filter, only reason I fitted my cone was because I couldn’t hear the turbo chatter, anyway shortly after that I did a remap with excede performance, and boost is now up to 1.4 from 1.1 quite a bit stronger in 3rd and 4th also strong, just a bit of feedback on a mapped 265
Hi I was having a bit of trouble with boost pressure just dropping off turned out being a faulty FORGE actuator I have attached both graphs 1st one being the forge actuator and 2nd being the standard mk3 rs actuator as you can c massive difference between the 2