Hi guys, in the process of purchasing a set of used KWs for the 250. Want to make sure I have everything ready to fit so I don’t run into issues. Will I need to swap out to shorter droplinks? If so what are people using? And what about driveshaft spacers? Will I kill driveshafts if it goes too low? Currently on -45mm H&R springs and seems fine but want to go a bit lower on the front. Also is it worthwhile getting camber shims for the rear axle? Thinking of running the fronts at around -2.5 degree camber as it’s obviously adjustable but just wondering if it’s worthwhile going for like -2 degree shims on the rear. ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cant comment on shorter drop links but worth getting some adjustable ones anyway to set preload on the ARB properly. Id recommend a spacer on the Pax shaft, Just for peace of mind, The Camber helps push the shaft back in but worth having it to be sure. Ho much track use will it see, -2.5 is a fair bit and makes it a pita on the road at times, -2 drives a lot nicer on the roads for sure, As for rear camber, Id wait and see how you find it first, Too much on the rear can be detrimental depends on the rest of setup and tyres etc. Should be around -1 anyway or there about.
Cheers for that mate, I’ll deffo look into the adjustable droplinks I never even thought about the load on the ARB, what do you run on yours And is it just a case of trial and error setting up the load on the arb? So it’s just passenger side that needs the spacer? Literally my only suggestions with the -2.5 front & -2 rear is because that’s what I ran on my clio and also what a friend ran on a Mazda MPS and it worked out quite well. But obv the 250 is a different car, I’ll start out about -2 front and leave the rears then, do a Trackday and see how I found it, drove Toms 250 round cadwell recently he’s running -3 front iirc on BC coilys and it handled well and wasn’t too bad on the road according to him either. Sorry for all the questions btw lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Need to set the length of them so the ARB sits in its natural position on the ground if that makes sense? Yeah just the Pax side, that needs it. Im on -2 rear now with -2.5 up front but if im honest it doesnt make a huge difference, Ran it on stock settings for years. Only real difference now is the tyre temps are even right across the tread but i wouldn't say its increased grip or anything like that. That i can tell anyway.
I’m in the same boat. Got a set of Clubsports which I’m fitting this weekend. I’ve got a set of adjustable drop links from Aluminati which are sold on eBay. He chose the length for me based on the standard ARB drop link length of 274mm and the drop in ride height I’m looking at. I’ve got some which range from 240-270mm now, which I’m hoping will Work well. Also been contemplating rear camber shims, but like Jamie said I’m going to leave that until after.
beware if you have a new megane that the rear bolts dont come out the oem damper. Has a captive washer which is part of the bolt. Just ordered the bolt kit from cook sport. caught me out this weekend.
I have a feeling it might be 275s and fucked about with it when they designed the ohlin dampers perhaps.
I know mine came out mate had them out to fit the H&R springs it’s currently sat on and mines a 61 plate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you can take the damper off fine to fit springs. but the bolt its self wont come out of the damper. so you cant re use it for a new one.
I run rear shims on my Megane 250 - negative 2 degrees camber on the rear, helps in Motorkhanas in the tight corners for sure. (I run BC Racing coil overs on the front with -2.4 deg camber).
Guys, I don't want to open a new thread just to ask one question, but I was wondering if this kit -> KW Clubsport is the best option for my Trophy ( budget 2500 € ? I'm planning to drive the car 50/50 road/track... also don't really care about comfort, and definitely want the sharpest coil-overs for that budget.... Cheers,
but it's only 1 way, where the clubsport is 2-way....any info why should i choose the ast over the kw. Many people talk about the ast on this forum , and i never get to read the kw part of the story....
Im no expert, youre better off talking to @cgrautomotive who can break it down for you and are very helpfull. But ASTs are known to be brilliant on track, so are KWs. Suppose it depends what tracks you want to do. Why do you want two way? Jamie atkinson has two ways and come from one ways so he might be the man to ask.
Thanks for the info man, i'm actually ordering my downpipe from cgr this week ) . like their quality, and hope to confirm the same once placing it in the car.
The thing is that i'm looking on google,youtube etc. and i see many applications of the AST, as well as the KW, but somehow again people kind of avoid to mention the KW, but praise only the AST.....just feels weird to me. But living in Belgium, makes it easy for me to travel to NL and give them a visit.
Kws clubsports were made for the ring so I don't think you can go wrong! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Yeah, exactly. I think the KW are as good as the AST, but probably due to the fact that KW are so popular, people start to believe they are overhyped or not as efficient as the rest... by the way amazing Megane, mate that you are having Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Both have great write ups. Pretty sure the kws are better on the road due to the way they work. But i dont think mine are overly harsh. haha thanks mate, shes doing okay
There's advantages to both KW and AST, there's also RSC to consider and a few other options, best thing to do is drop us a message @Mish View and we can try sort something out for you
