Small update, pulled the sender unit this week and fitted the return inlet, so here are a couple of photos before, during and after. So the tank pump just needs plumbing to the swirl pot now and that is the majority of it complete. I have also decided to run a pre-filter that will sit between the tank pump and the inlet to the swirl pot, just for added protection from debris entering the swirl pot, as once anything gets in it will likely never be able to leave other than through the injectors! And finally I am just mocking up some different ideas for wastegate cooling, as I mentioned before I have now decided to run it, however it does create a few problems of its own. I firstly contemplated a standalone cooling system for it, with a small pump and radiator, with either water or coolant just circulating. It seemed a lot of hasstle and space is already tight so had to look further. Then I considered different options for plumbing in engine coolant, there are not really many options with the Megane, so tapping from the turbo coolant seems ideal. I had considered running the turbo and wastegate in series, however the wastegate water jacket is considerably more restrictive than that of the turbo, and I want to keep the turbo coolant flow as high as possible through the turbo. I have now decided to tap off the line pre turbo, and run the two in parallel, the wastegate line will T off the top of the turbo and meet back up in the same way post turbo, as I mentioned the turbo water jacket is less restrictive, plus the extra 2X 90degree bends I will be adding to the sides of the wastegate and the lines are longer with some incline from the gate, I believe with this set up I will be compromising a small amount of cooling from the turbo as the wastegate flow will be quite low, but should be enough to cool it considerably more than just ambient though.
So time is running out for me now, Im now pushing to get the engine finished up for this weekend, been busy this afternoon wrapping the manifold and downpipe. Been trying to take photos along the way so here are a couple of the manifold nearly finished. Its not the best wrapping - I know, but it is secure. Added a couple of extra ties here and there to make sure. The wrap Im using is Mishimoto, there is cheaper stuff out there but there are also horror stories about it too. Better to stick with a brand with this stuff in my opinion. Couple of shots (hopefully the last) of the hotside, realised I hadnt shown any photos of the turbo internals whatsoever for anyone who may be interested. And a quick one of the wastegate ready to go back on, it does looks like some dodgy sort of robot, but seriously, this is how its being fitted.
Just curious on the impeller. It seems to have been ground down on the shaft a bit rustically! Do you know why? Also seeing the paint on there which I suppose will burn off but these are very sensitive items and require balancing at extreme rpms. Has that all been catered for and is that the reason for the grinding?
Thats a completely normal method for turbo balancing, as bad as it may look, all that matters is the turbine is true and balanced. These leave the factory balanced so there should be no need to make any changes
Appreciate that, just I’ve just never seen a shaft ground like that before! All turbos I’ve come across have a nut on the end of the shaft so the wheel can be removed. It just seems like a relatively large amount of material has been removed. As I said, never seen this before but if it works, it works
I think the nut you are referring to is as below. I took a photo of the compressor for you. This will be on the cold side of the turbo. If you look closely the coldside has also had weight removed for balancing. This is something you will likely not find on a cheaper turbo
Always had Garret or hks turbo’s. Generally found the 12 sided nut on the comp wheel and either that or a six sided nut on the impeller. Never seen one ground down like yours. From a rebuilding point of view, I remember using the six sided hot side nut to counter hold the shaft whilst undoing the 12 on the cold side to stop the shaft rotating? Can’t see how you’d split the turbo now should the worst happen? Things probably changed as I’ve been out of the game for 10 years and interested to see how this now works!
Im not sure as far as rebuilding it goes, hadnt really given it much thought to be honest. That how it is from Garrett, other turbos of the same model seem to be no different as far as the balancing goes. Guess if I ever have a problem I will worry about it when I get to it.
what sort of shape was the lower bearing turret in? When the race seizes up,the turret can end up badly pitted and scored as its just grinding. My own where seized solid at 40K..we just got away with polishing up the turret on a linisher..very close to scrap though.
Was fine, only problem with the box was the input shaft, the plastic race had broken up on that and the bearings where left unspaced. It sounded very similar to a pretty bad dual mass, I actually thought it was that at first. Had a second opinion on the lot from my local Renault, owner of the place rebuilt it for me in the end. Will see how long it lasts
Sorry mate scrap the last reply for some reason I thought you asked about the box I did the same as you with the spigots that sit inside the bearing, one side was quite good and pretty sure its had that hub replaced at some point, was dry but no scoring. The other side was completely dry and water had obviously got inside as what fell out when I took them apart was very fine rust dust, there was some fairly minor scoring on that side, I did similar to you, was going to turn them but didnt want to risk having too much play against the bearing so I linished them also in the end, got away with it as there is no play now they are reassembled, was considering turning some new ones, could look at adding a groove or two around the OD to help hold some grease, although hopefully wont be a issue now I added the grease points. Unfortunately I didnt take any photos before and after internally. Will check on them whenever I take the hubs off next after some driving though.
Got the water lines fitted today, along with almost all the other small jobs left on the engine. The wastegate is now liked up to the cooling system, and everything is fitted and ready to go! So that is the engine finished. Its been around 9 months and a whole lot of work! I am hoping to have the lump and box back in the car as soon as I can. Thought I would attach some final photos of the complete engine, along with a brief spec list of the engine I havnt listed every part as it would probably crash my phone trying to write it all out Closer shot of the wastegate finished. Block rebore to 83mm (from 82.7mm) / honed / piston clearances checked Cylinders honed Oil squirters removed and checked Block repainted Crankshaft saddles reseated / chased saddle bolt threads Crankshaft balanced (no work needed) and polished Block deck hand refinish Piston / connecting rod assemblys matched Wossner pistons 83mm fitted (with gudgeon pins / rings) PEC connecting rods fitted ARP connecting rod bolts fitted King racing big end bearings bearings fitted Kolbenschmidt main bearings fitted Thrust bearings fitted ARP saddle stud kit fitted Renault oil pump / pump chain fitted Renault complete lower gasket kit fitted Cylinder head pots reworked to semi mirror finish Cylinder head exhaust ports reworked smoothed edge and ground even Cylinder head induction ports knife edged and bored out / removed cast defects Cylinder head deck face skimmed Cylinder head exhaust / induction / thermostat hand finished Cylinder head / rocker cover cam journals polished Supertech valves fitted (nitriled steel induction / inconel exhaust) Catcams valve springs fitted Renault stem seals fitted Head bolt threads chased Renault head gasket fitted (stock height) ARP head stud kit fitted Lifters checked / emptied / refilled Camshaft check / journals polished Renault top end complete gasket / seal kit fitted Renault waterpump fitted Clio 1*2 crank counterbalance fitted Renault cambelt kit fitted Replaced upper rear engine mount Replaced upper side engine mount / powerflex yellow insert Replaced lower engine mount / powerflex yellow insert Fitted gearbox mount powerflex yellow insert Removed air conditioning and auxillary belt tensioner (Gates stretch belt) Fitted NGK iridium spark plugs Fitted coil packs Fitted low temperature thermostat Tubular manifold fitted Garrett G25-550 fitted (0.7 A/R / standard rotation) Downpipe fitted Turbosmart comp gate 40 gen V fitted Custom Megane MK3 fuel rail (removed regulator housing / weld on dash 6 fittings inlet and return / moved mount brackets to suit MK2 inlet manifold Siemens DEKA 80lb / 875cc Injectors
Got to love the work of a thorough man! Hope it all goes in the car smoothly. My mate recently took his fully track rebuilt Honda Integra type R DC2 for its first track shakedown, at castle combe. It has a stock Accord type S engine in it,with a hybrid turbo set up. fkn thing makes 360hp at 9psi of boost! It was the fastest thing at the trackday..was hitting 145mph at points! Those standard honda engines will cope with silly power and hold together. Hopefully yours will make some nice figures..
Thanks for the kind words guys highly appreciated! So the install started today, had some unexpected fallbacks, lots of swearing etc etc. Fairly crap weather at the start of the day, so undeterred I made a tent type thing with some tarpaulin Finished securing the fuel line and return, made up a bracket and covered some of the brake lines to ensure the braided lines cannot rub. Weather then picked up, brought the lump and box out and proceeded to fit the flywheel and clutch... or not, turned out my bearing puller was actually too big to remove and replace the pilot bearing in the centre of the crank... So using a old trick of mixed bread and grease along with a tight fitting rod we renoved the old bearing and fitted the new one and yes Im being serious about the bread and grease! Shortly later managed to get the lump fitted, had a change of plan with the starter heat shield, ended up removing the modded stock one for a DEI starter wrap, much easier and takes up less room. Didnt take any photos of that but you can find pictures of the product easily online. And just finished up for the day, not really as much progress as I would have liked but it is in. Making some changes to the loom, need to decide on fitting the ECU and electric water pump but otherwise its looking good. P.S let me know if you see anything missed (not obvious things like radiator please) or in the wrong place Also had a massive set back on my coilovers, somebody has sent me the wrong type as it turns out when I started to fit them!
Took a photo of the DEI starter wrap that I mentioned in previous posts, taken from under the bay. Was quite concerned about the original shield, motor and oil feed not going well together. Got a few things that need moving around a bit, coolant system is nearly finished now, changed some cables and done quite a bit of electrical tidying, probably going to make up a bracket to mount the ECU and junction box, a second may be needed for the electric coolant pump. Short shifter working well, and a massive thanks to @ianplymouth for the linkage bracket! Had a huge set back with the coilovers which I hope to have resolved this coming week!
Very nice.Protect the water line that is going to the wastgate with high temperature sleave.It it just to close to the manifold. I don't know how are you going to use the car but if you going to the track you will need an oil cooler.I have a big oil cooler an the car can do 20 min session with max oil temp at around 120 degrees.
All lines going to wastegate have heat sleeving on Yes agreed I might need to look at the oil cooling, probably coolant also. Will see how I get on. What engine setup do you have?
I have had a couple of people ask me to make a list of parts / fittings used for the fuel system, as promised I will make a list below and some notes. Happy to do a full write up on this shortly on the dedicated fuel system thread if anybody wants me to!? My system is now finished and working, may make some changes in the future as there are some parts that could be better IMO. Tank to swirl pot feed (lift) 5/16 quick connector - AN6 male (compact) (normal length type will not fit) AN6 female - 90 bend - 8mm barb Fuel line to swirl pot inlet, 5/16 hose (not currently using pre filter but this can be added) Swirl pot return to tank Fuel line from swirl pot outlet to tank return, 5/16 hose. 8mm barb - 90 bend - AN6 female AN6 male tank fitting (bulkhead type) fitted to tank sender Swirl pot main feed to fuel rail Fuel line from swirl pot to pump. 5/16 AN6 stainless braided used 8mm barb - M18x1.5 (MUST be sealed by washer / dowty) Bosch 044 pump (using original check valve) Bosch 044 banjo - AN6 male (MUST be sealed by washer / dowty) Fuel filter (will leave out connections here as they may vary would advise AN6 sealed type filter not using NPT threads) From filter to bulkead fittings will leave out as will depend on your requirements or location of pump , pressure check points etc. AN6 male - bulkhead - 90 bend - AN6 male (used to send line outside of cab below car, mounted fuel lines in original position) AN6 female - 8mm barb Fuel line from bulkhead to rail 5/16 AN6 8mm barb - AN6 female AN6 - 90 bend - ORB6 Fuel rail inlet. I used 9/16 JIC weld on fittings for both inlet and outlet, beware these will not seal by AN6 flare, they are intended to seal by ORB or washer. Fuel rail regulation and return to swirl pot ORB6 - 90 bend - AN6 male AN6 female - 8mm barb Fuel line between rail and regulator (if regulator not mounted directly to rail - almost impossible on F4R turbo engine) 8mm barb - AN6 male Regulator (my regulator jenvey body uses AN6 felmale regulated side and AN6 male return side but may vary) AN6 female - 90 bend - AN6 female AN6 male - 8mm barb Fuel line returning to bulkhead fitting 8mm barb - AN6 female AN6 male - 90 bend - bulkhead - AN6 male AN6 female - 8mm barb Fuel line to swirl pot return inlet These parts will massively vary on locations of the swirl pot, pump, how lines are ran between tank, across the car and in the engine bay. To give a rough idea of fuel line used I had a 10m length and around 8m was used for the fuel system. A few feet was scrapped during changes etc. This set up was set out to be using the Bosch 044 pump inline, there are easier ways to run pumps in tank but this setup gives far more flexibility with the swirl pot in my opinion and requires less changes to be needed to the original sender. The regulator used is a Bosch non adjustable, must stress it is highly important the regulator is able to cope with a high flow when using a pump of this power. There are also quite a few tools needed, sealants, if push fittings are used jubilee clips also. Anyway if anybody managed to get this far without falling asleep and wants to give it a go I am happy to help if I can.
Uff it is long list But basicaly it is fully forged engine with: CP Pistones, manley rods, acl bearing, catcams Supertech valves Supertech double springs and titanium retainers Ported head and manifold Nortech performance exhaust manifold Garrett GTX3071 GEN II turbo with Tial exhaust housing GFB 38 mm external wastgate (tial was broken and couldn't regulate the boost) DEKA 875 ccm injectors Full fuel system with return on AN fittings RADIUM Enginering surge tank with dretchwerk fuel pump in the surge tank SETRAB oil cooler AIRTECH intercooler Plex PBC pro boost controler 7D TTV twin plate clutch Full 3" Exhaust And I'm sure I have forgat something. Max boost cca 2 bar. Running around 500 HP on 1.8 bar.
Very nice, do you have a thread for it on here would love to see it!? Similar spec to mine, only real differences are cams and turbo. Do you know the upper limit on the stock map sensor? Had thought about a aftermarket boost controler too but still unsure. Who did the calibration?!
Yes I have, but didn't documented as nice as you have. A lot of things missing but you get the point. http://www.rsmegane.com/threads/megane-225-f1-team-mods-over-the-years.1119/page-2 Stock map sensor limit is around 1.55 bar. I'm using map sensors from megane 250. Master Paul from RSTuning did the calibration. I'm working with Paul for 10 years and he is a top man and tuner.
Great I will have a look through. How did he do the cal work? Did you visit the UK or did he send you the file? I should be booking mine in shortly as soon as I am happy with it.
He was Here in Slovenia. But later on I have change some things like, cams, turbo from gen 1 to gen 2, injectors, added boost controler. That cal was done remotly.
Made up a new bracket that will hold the ECU and junction box, this is fixed to the chassis leg, still got some more electrical work to do but it is getting there.
I wish you would hurry up & get this finished. This is the equivalent to an extremely slow striptease with your dream woman.
Massive progress made today, its now starting to look like a car again Fitted the radiator, intercooler, most of the boost lines that have needed changing slightly to suit the turbo, got most of the electricals finished up too. Decided to test fire it for the first time.... it wont run yet as half the boost lines are not fitted but I had to check it is turning over, oil is going where it should be, the fuel pump etc... Pressed start and it turns over as it should, pump fired up as it should, oil circulating as it should.. so thats a success. My replacement coilovers turned up, so managed to get most of the drivetrain finished also. New driveshafts, hubs half rebuilt, new torque links, new drop links, new track rod ends and of course the BC BR coilovers. So it should be almost like new in the handling department too once its set up Oh and everything has been mullered with ACF50, seems to be really really good stuff thanks for the heads up @Korky
Ahh it wouldn't take you long now to swap it all over, you know where everything goes now Or you could get it wrapped you must have some money left over after your spending spree over the last 6 months
