Me again with my woes! Wish I had something to contribute instead of asking questions all the time. Long story short, replaced clutch with standard unit from engine dynamics plus single mass fly wheel. 4000 miles later (including 2500 very steady miles bedding in the new engine) the clutch failed. Bite point was on the floor and couldn’t get in and out of gear. The fingers in the clutch had flattened. Replaced master cylinder, slave cylinder plus a pressure valve on the pipe work then fitted new clutch and dual mass flywheel from LUK. First time on boost over 3500rpm clutch slips and free revs to limiter. Does it in every gear except 1st and 2nd. Clutch operates fine through the Rev range unless boosting, bite point is at the top of pedal, no burning clutch smell, no juddering. Completely normal when driving normally. My garage is completely stumped and say it should either engage fully or slip all the time, not just under full boost. Any ideas from anyone? Getting bored of ploughing money in to this thing! Ps it’s running 336bhp and 380ft/lbs in case that makes a difference.
First off have you bed on new clutch ? A first flooring straight after a new clutch being fitted should have been after a 400 odd mile bedding in period of light floorings.... Any slipping clutch will rarely slip in 1st and 2nd ,usually 3 and onwards so thats a load of toffee them saying it shud just do it all time and all gears. As for the whys it slipping.....380 ftlbs is quite a punch for a clutch to take.i cant imagine a 250 stock clutch would be happy to take that for ages..i may be totally wrong but i just think thats alot for a 250 clutch to take. I have a megane r26....the stock clutch is good for 300 ftlbs in good order. I think u maywell need a decent paddle or similar.i would be interested to see what other peeps think and wether i am on right track or not.
Thanks mikey. I’ve looked at other posts and helix comes up a lot as a possible brand. Ktec do an “uprated” paddle clutch but says upto 330ft/lbs. Anyone got any ideas what upgraded clutch can take the power? I still have the billet smf if it’s better to use with an uprated clutch but we though it was tearing up the oem clutch because of the lack of rotational play. Just need something reliable for daily driving. Appreciate track driving puts less pressure because of lack of launches but this is a daily driver for me.
Agree with what Mikey has said, a worn clutch normally shows symptoms of slipping in the highest gears, and will be worse when warm. Typical scenario being when you give it a bootful on a motorway in 6th and it comes on boost. The fact that yours is showing slipping right down in 3rd gear shows the clamping force / friction material is no way up to the job. Can’t advise on options for replacement, but if you want it usable in traffic, I would steer clear of paddles if you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stock clutch is capable of upto 400lbsft on the MK3 I run stock clutch plate with lightweight TTV SMF with no issues, The only clutch issues ive had are with slave cylinders failing on multiple occasions
I would have to respectfully disagree with regards to the paddle clutch. I have had a 5 or 6 puck paddle and it operates in virtually the same way a full face does.
So other than the slave cylinders your oem clutch has held up ok Jamie? I was interested to hear about yours as I know it’s running more power than mine. What brand paddle have you got mikey? I missed the part of your first message and may have shredded it boosting too soon. Thanks as well James. I thought 5th / 6th might be a test for the clutch but good to know it slipping down in 3rd shows a bigger problem.
Its done around 40k on the Hybrid setup now with over 380ftlbs with no issues, It did slip slightly once when it was cold in 6th gear at peak torque but ive never managed to replicate it or have it do it again so seems solid.
