Upgrading the Sound Quality on the M3RS Stereo

Not sure if of interest to anyone but focal did a plug and play kit for the Megane mainly advertised in France but you can see here, the offer single speaker/with tweeter/2.1/4.1/6.1 kits that are all plug and play

https://www.focal-inside.com/renault/fr/megane-3/

Highlight each one gives the spec and Renault part numbers

A quick google brings up some prices for kits here

https://www.renaultmagazijn.nl/focal-speaker-upgrade

And individual speaker parts here

http://vkvwebshop.nl/webwinkel/mult...music-premium-7711575882-992/products_detail/

Also UK dealers, if your local dealer has no idea (6.1 example below)

http://www.renaultgenuineparts.com/renault-7711575882-focal-music-premi/

Thanks to sijnh for the initial info!

 

Found a fitting instructions for the Focal's:
https://www.focal.com/renault/tuto_pdf/megane_en.pdf

 

Wow that's some price...

 

You think? £477 for 4 high end speakers, 2 tweeters, an amplified active sub and all the wiring/adaptors for plug and play? decent if you ask me - the dealers on here can probably get it cheaper too

 

I Don't see how the 6,1 is plug and play as I have 8 speakers in my face lift 265?

It would be interesting to know the best price.

 

Yeah you have 2 speakers and 2 tweeters front and back?

The 6.1 kit provides the front two speakers and tweeters but just speakers at the back utilising the existing ones, plus the sub - hence 6.1 - you could buy the two tweeters for a full 'focal' 8.1 but I doubt the arkamys rear tweeter and the focal one have much difference in real world terms.

 

I fitted the pioneer however it seems to stay on for quite a while after locking the car. I am presuming the speaker output and the power is not killed until the bcm does the shutdown after a few minutes so the next question is how do I wire a remote turn on and off?

 

It's similar to my dashcam which stays on for about 90 seconds after the car is locked as many things still have power. Are you asking about an inline switch, as that is easy. Would it not be ok to leave it on for those 90 seconds?

 

With speaker level input it is meant to shut down when the left speaker is powered down by the head unit. However it does not do this and stays on until the power is cut to the head unit. Therefore I thin I need to wire up the amp remote but I don't know how to get one from the stock head unit

 

It will be fine, aslong as it does turn off, it's most prob normal to do that, my battery has never gone flat and it's been fitted over a year


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So i've just got round to adding the tweeters as mine didn't have any either.
Makes a noticeable difference but their almost too good for the door speakers and overpowering now.

What do people recommend for a good quality door speakers with good base... I know it won't be great without a sub but anything will better than the originals.

Also ones that would be a straight swap that doesn't require too much messing around with would be great!

 

You'll struggle with a straight swap as the speakers are riveted in place.
Powerwise, if you aren't going to amplify in the future go for a set with the RMS watt value around 20-40, don't bother looking at peak watt as that's just a sales tactic.

Most brands will be fine, and miles better than factory... even a 20 quid set. Components are what you want.

I can't remember what size they are standard unfortunately, but they will be on this forum somewhere

 

If anyone interested I have a spare sotncable for the pre facelift models as the laternonesndo notmusenthe same cable. Willing to post for say a tenner?

 

Ppl who have fitted the Fli tweeters in the dash, how did you connect the wiring as im guessing the cars connection will be a plug and obviously the tweeter is 2 seperate spade connectors

Did you cut the standard wiring?

Just so i know before i fit some to the mrs 250 @ the weekend

Thanks

 

@RobMitchell the tweeters had a plug too, literally plug both ends together and you're done.

But my car had some tweeters already plugged in, which didn't work so I replaced them.

 

Hmm thanks for that iv ordered the ones linked in here but hey dont have a plug.. its 2 spade end connections

 

Did mine earlier. Same fli ones. Mine didn't come with a plug but the spade end connectors slot straight in. Found it abit fiddly. But got there in the end. What a difference. I'm impressed.

 

Got round to getting a Pioneer GM D1004. Fitted it today and the sound quality is so much better and nice to have a little bit of bass, not loads of bass but least it is some!. I checked to see of it turns on and off with the stereo and it does. Thanks go to Gavin on here as without his guide I would have been totally lost. Speakers cut out when I turned it up to 21 but i wont need it that loud so im not at all that bothered. Its louder in the lower ranks of the volume, so no need to. Next up will be a underseat subwoofer.

 

Tried the volume again and got it to 25, didn't go any further as it was so loud. Weird as earlier it only went up to 21 then cut out. Clarity is very good now, just needs the much needed bass now which a sub will provide. It did add a little bit of bass, not much just a little bit, nothing amazing. But it wasn't intended for that anyway, was looking for more clarity which it has definitely provided.

 

@Paul21 what speakers and tweeters do you have?

 

I have fli tweeters and at the moment standard speakers but I will be upgrading the front

 

I’ve got a focal ibus in the boot, sound is perfect for me

 

Just had a quick Google search of this. It's plug and too which is good. Have you installed or replaced any other audio equipment in it?.

 

Nope but I have the arkamys speakers. With the bass taken away from them and sent to the sub the sound is spot on for me. Decent bass for the size too.

 

Decent bass is what I'm after too and that's why I've brought a underseat sub because as we all know there is none standard. I'm happy with the tweeters and Pioneer amp I have installed. Sub should complete it.

 

I took the lazy route and gave to the local audio place to wire in all in properly, cost about £80 from memory