Induction kit

you have linked to the site,but not the actual product.
If its the ktec induction kit,then yes..i have it,and it defo helps the engine pull harder up top,as well as making a decent noise without being to noisy..

 

better off with a 90 degree silicone bend and a cone filter

 

63mm to 76mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-...hash=item339105b2e9:m:m5FXvQkUI-DMPK7EEeVCrVw

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-U...475593&hash=item3f57e86a94:g:9BEAAOSwHQ9WV5Cx

2x 70-90mm
1x 60-80mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...hash=item3d076fa4f1:m:mUMhReJ5bYusHfE5wQMptjA

1x63mm joiner
1x76mm joiner

 

Do you Think you could use this with a megane 250?

 

I just ordered these to try and put something together for my 265. I thought about the ktec kit but just couldn't justify £200 on an induction kit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-L...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/70mm-2-7...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I've got some alloy sheet too, so I might make a heat shield for it too.

 

Do these really make a tangible difference (apart from the subjective issue of noise)? I find it difficult to believe a company would design a car, spending millions on making it and then think *in my best french accent* I know what we shall do to these english pigs.. fit a restrictive airflow system to make their cars like merde *french laugh*
also doesnt the car work within known variables for air/fuel amounts to produce the same power regardless of how much air youre getting in there and how cold it is?

I have watched a few videos by these guys im sure many of you are aware of them... they are a bunch of bruces but they are quite entertaining.

 

It's very car dependent in reality. On some cars, they don't really make any difference (other than noise), on others they can actually be worse but, on some, they can make an improvement. I seem to recall that on the old 2.0 Fiesta ST, the standard intake assembly was massively restrictive and fitting an induction kit could free up 10bhp (which is a lot when it only has 150bhp to start with!) I think the intakes on modern cars tend to be fairly good as manufacturers are now eking out every last bit of efficiency and are able to model them much better than they used to.

The general consensus appears to be that it isn't really necessary on the Megane, but I have no shame in saying that I am just doing it for the noise, as I think the car lacks a bit of character as standard.

 

Thats fair enough personally I live down a private road (it sounds more glam than it is trust me!) and its quite hemmed in so any noise travels, cold starting my car as it is worries me that im pissing off all the neighbours so anything that makes it louder is off the books for me, plus it makes it less obvious when the missus calls me that im gunning it down the M18 >.<

 

Manufacturers fit Air boxes as has been mentioned - because it quietens down intake noise, but also because it increases the life of an air filter by protecting it from the elements. From a performance perspective, the best gain is going to be from having the smallest restriction from turbo to air filter. The most restrictive part of this is the filter itself. Two ways to reduce this is to increase the surface area of the filter (you’d need to calculate whether an aftermarket cone actually has a larger surface area than the standard panel filter), or to decrease the pressure drop across the filter. This means use a less restrictive material, but that would normally go hand in hand with reducing its ability to filter the air well.


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To add to the above, I’m assuming that the feed Air to the filter remains the same in both scenarios - a dedicated cold air feed will help if there is no clear path for fresh air to feed the intake.


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To me it made a huge difrence.
IAT pre turbo droped from +20C to ambient to +1to+2 from ambient.

Alsonthe oem is way to restrictive and it was the bottleneck and my turbo strugeled to make the boost it makes now with no problem.

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So would it stand to reason that running with an aftermarket cone etc. would necessitate a need to increase services as there is a risk of said filter being less concerned with running optimally for as long a period of time?

I think the key is for an aftermarket system to go hand in hand with remaps etc. people have made it look in my biased eyes as though fitting a cone has changed how their car behaves, I just dont buy it personally.

would a less restrictive material potentially allow more contamination through to the engine? could this cause a problem or is this relative in particle sizes?

Also dont Renault have a bladder system near the intake whose job it is, is to increase the induction noise made by the airbox, or are you generalizing when talking about noise dampening?

If I may be a nob for a second..... Where is this temperature measured? surely if its pre turbo it makes little difference as the turbo is running into the hundreds of degrees so would warm the passing air anyway, if its as the air gets to the engine itself then it could be argued your intercooler is the suspect for cooling the air.
I cant see why something like an R.S would have a restrictive air feed it doesnt make sense to me? unless renault would want to quite on purpose hamstring their top performance car? all that does is make the number nerds go for something with higher bhp.. cos its faster innit

I cant say for sure - ive never run an induction kit on a car and have no reason to do so for issues highlighted in a previous post. if you can see it makes a difference fair play to you.

I think its a thorny subject as its a mod alot of people do and SOME manufacturers of these units make some bold claims on air density etc. etc.

 

Its measured on the MAF which is 30cm prior to turbo.
The temp on the turbo exhaust is a function of intake in meaning (intake temp)^(presure ratio*factor) simplified. Ie the higher the intake the higher the outlet on the tuebo

So if i half the intake temp from 40C to 20C i more than halfed the outlet temp. And the turbo is more efficient.

 

what does that mean in the real world? ok i understand that youve lowered your air temp by ~18oc but does that make a difference that can be recorded or is it a subjected confirmation bias of I know its better because i fitted this part?
I assume you have had work done to your car other than just bolting on an air filter?

 

Ofcorse, its dpuble the power the OEM is. (Not an rs but shares the same intake/IC and requires much more air. )
Its a 1.9dci and pushing to get 300bhp. That is at 2.3 bar boost. At that pressure ratio my intake temp more almost quadruples. And lower the air temo higher the density.
For stock engine the oem is fine. And most probably wouldn't make a diference except the spond of it. The oem is also a cold air feed only way to restrictive for higher bosted ones.

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Ps. Its not only a cone. My cone is located in the bumper and runs a 70mm ID al the way to turbo.

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running roughly double your bhp makes more sense now, wouldnt you be worried about the cone becoming damaged by the weather (road salt etc.) being in the bumper?

 

Not really its behind the foglight. (Mk2 megane ph1 with rs bumper) so its not directly hitting the cone. But that small amaount wont afect it anyway either.

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Here it is

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Love the dci stencilled on

 

Thanks

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almost makes me want to put something on mine but spelt incorrectly like farge or RS-Tek or something.. for the bants mate... FOR THE BANTS!

 

Dont know the science..but to start with the car was lethargic down low with the new intake.
phoned KTEC and they said the ecu will need time to adjust to the new parameters...and it did.
I was just as sceptible as others before i put it on, just to try it.

100% the engine has more pull at high revs.

I thought the 265 on ecu was different than earlier models,and intakes will do nothing for these cars?

 

Milos - I’m confused by what you are suggesting? Was your 20 degree or so reduction on a tuned engine; stock air intake vs cone filter / changed pipework? If that’s the case, it’s probably to be expected, the turbo is working harder than standard, but it’s also fighting against an intake design that can be de-restricted further. Any de-restriction is a good thing, but the benefits will be even greater on a tuned car.


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Let me know how this goes for you as would be interested doing this myself. I like the ktec one but like yourself can't justify the price tag

 

Aftermarket filters definitely need more ‘servicing’ on the basis that they are more exposed (although some are a more enclosed design, but again, worth checking to see if the design is actually going to offer any benefit). Some filters can be washed, normally the kind that require oiling to function properly.

There is probably a case to be made for tuned engines, but the reality is that if the system can be made less restrictive (that includes piping bends, changes in cross-section, joints etc), it will be of benefit as the turbo doesn’t have to work as hard to pull air into it. The thing is, these effects will be greater the more tuned the engine is, for obvious reasons.

Filter material is probably not something to get hung up on, but certainly the area of the filter is.

When I say noise dampening, it was more about the filter being housed in a big plastic box - dampens down the induction noise, which understandably, not everyone wants!

It’s a subject that will always divide opinions for sure!


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Your reasons all seem to make sense and it does look as though you've actually attempted to improve something (airflow, temps, noise(in your opionion) etc.) coming into this I was expecting quotes off the back of a K&N of mayte it's fookin banging and adds like 50 brake mayte. So it's nice to see more justifiable reasons than that and backed up with figures

 

Fitted it today. I ended up ordering a silicone inlet hose too so fitted that first. I trimmed the alloy bend a lot as it was too long. I might trim it a bit further as it goes into the silicone hose quite a long way. The cone filter I used is a bit big to be honest, so I would recommend a slightly smaller one. It might fit a little better once I trim the pipe a bit more though. I haven't made a bracket to support the filter yet but might do that at some point.

Not done too many miles yet but, with the recirculating valve blanked, it's not subtle! You get a real sound of rushing air as the turbo spools up, then it quietens down and you can hear engine/exhaust sound, before loud chatter when you back off. I removed the sound generator at the same time but I don't know what difference it would make to have it on there. First impressions are that it's not for those who like discretion.

 

I can see what you mean about about a smaller cone being better but it is a snug fit with the one you have. Are you still planning on building a heat shield around it?(That's if you can as it looks quite tight for space). Are you planning on having a cold air feed going to it. Could you possibly take a quick video or recording of How it sounds. Looks like you have done a decent job.

 

It is quite snug. The end of it is touching the body but I'm hoping that, if I can trim the alloy bend a little more, I can get it fitting a touch better. I'm not sure about the heat shield yet. With the battery tray and the brake servo/master cylinder, it's actually fairly well shielded already, so the benefits would be minimal. I've left the factory cold air feed in place but a heat shield could perhaps help to ensure the air stays around the filter area. I would like to make a bracket to secure the filter. It's fairly solid with the silicone intake hose but there's no harm in belt and braces.

I'll see if I can sort out a video this week.

 

That will be good if you can. Least if you do that it won't budge even though it probably won't but will be best to do it. Bit of a difference price doing that yourself than buying the one from k-tec. Did it take you long?

 

ktec unit has a bracket that bolts the filter to the firewall.

 

I have the ktec one pricey but so pleased I got it. Well worth it in my opinion and sits neatly in the bay

 

Longest job is probably the faff of removing the battery tray. Once that's out, access improves a lot. The air box comes out easily (one bolt, then disconnect the hose and pull). Getting to the hose clip that holds the inlet hose to the turbo is a bit awkward but it's quite easy otherwise, though obviously you can retain the standard one. I spent a bit of time trimming the alloy bend to suit and also removed the sound generator and recirc valve, but it was probably only about three hours all in. I'd never taken any of it apart before so was going slowly and thinking a bit along the way!

 

very lucky to get that battery tray out if it hasnt been out before.
Many of them the retaining bolts are rusted in.
We had to angle grind out many, when we used to do the shortshifts.

 

The bolts came out really easily actually. The car hasn't done ever so many miles so I guess they haven't had the chance yet. I'm going to take it out again to do the M12 bolt in the box mount and short shift mod so might add a bit of copper slip to them when I do that.