Hi Guys, Hoping to pick up my first Megane RS F1 on Monday. The car is pretty much standard with about 53K on the clock. Ideally I'm wanting to keep it close to stock with a few minor tweaks where appropriate. I do believe the car has had a good home over the years. However what are the "must do's" you guys can recommend? For example anything likely to be close to perishing and worth replacing, mounts, specific bolts, etc... The car will primarily be used for road and maybe a track day or two, although i've got a Exige V6 which is already highly modified for track. Hence wanting to improve on 'stock' for the Megane but keep it pretty sedate. Recommendations welcome.
Stage 1 remap for circa 260 bhp, some decent pads, fluid and tyres and trim about 40 kg out the back by whipping the seats etc out for track. Colin Chapman would be proud.
Swivel Bearings are the most common fault of all..If the steering doesnt self center,then they need doing. If they havnt been done,they almost certainly need it by now. My own R26 has very low miles,but both of my swivel bearings where utterly seized. Rebuild kits are available..Renault would only change the whole hubs at big expense. Engine mounts can go..look for vibration in the cabin. Window regualtors are a very common fail..sometimes a clean of the contacts is enough to get them working again. It could be needing a cambelt/waterpump soon..so check the service schedule.. And again..at its age..it will be needing a clutch if it hasnt been done..and really you should change the flywheel as well, if it hasnt been done before..so potentially a big bill there. As aerofoil said..a stage 1 map by the likes of RS Tuning will give the car a safe 260+ HP with a similar torque figure. No additional mods required for a stage 1..if you want more power..bigger intercooler/injectors. But The Mk2 F4RT engine is not the strongest of engines,so dont go over 300hp/300lb/ft. Good brake fluid,brembo blank disks and a good pad like Carbon lorraine,PF pads,or Carbotech will beef up the stopping performance for the track without spending thousands. Shortshift in my opinion is THE best mod for the car, to sort out its horrible standard shift. You might as well buy KTECS shortshift,as it includes the actuator,which again is almost certainly past its best. Ktecs kit is a direct copy of my own shortshift..so i know how good it is! Other than that,they are very robust cars..My own car has worn very well over 10 years.
Great! Thanks Guys! So a service will be needed in November, so will likely to get that down by SJM in October. Plan to get all oils (inc. gearbox) and brake fluid changed over as a first step and possible the short shift as that sounds universally the must have mod! What oils are folks using for engine, gearbox, and brakes?
for the brakes and pads go to george at rtr who is on here....get brembo solid front disks approx 90 quid a pair and if you can stretch to 200quid then ferodo 1.11 pads are great. maybe get spare pins for the front calipers as they may be seized a new clutch and flywheel is around 1300 fitted by renault specialist the quick shifter is great for sure. for oil i use millers nanodrive but any top oil of the right spec is probably ok. get the oil refreshed in the gbox....not sure what to recommend as i didnt spec anything special remap is good to do but go to a good place as recommended on here, i think new injectors are around £250 if you want to take that next step maybe induction kit and milltek exhaust, the ktec induction kits are expensive around 180 when you can make up your own very easily and a lot cheaper. some people do a lot of mods and some just a few...your budget and requirements really My car has had quite a few mods now but is focused for the track with occasional road use if unsure on cambelt life then get that done
I have always used the reccomended renault fluids.. I bought RBF600 fluid this time for the brakes,but my Renault tech mate said the boiling points to this ,and the recommended Renault brake fluid was similar. In regards to the shortshift,your car may already have it installed..we did over 100 in the time we where installing them. No mistaking the original shift to the modified one. If its vague and long winded, with A tendency to miss shifts..its standard! If you remove the battery tray you will see the actuator..The flat machined area with the ball stud, is the modified location point for the gearcable. The hole to its left is the original mounting point...dont look like much of a change..but its night and day...essential for the track where fast,accurate shifts are required.
It is a 57 plate. Last service was Nov 2016 (51777 miles). Cambelt was done in Jan 2016. Now at about 53K miles.
well at least thats one thing off the list..wonder if they changed the water pump?..they are known to leak..which means belt off again.
