So after initially having a quick go, at fitting my cone filter, I checked out battery tray removal on the forum, basically just remove the battery and then Ecu, and then three bolts that hold tray, OMG it is so much more than that, once you undo the battery and ECU, and then the silver thingies on the other side of the tray, you pull the tray and it moves but doesn't come out, after hours of battling there are a few extras to add, nb there is a wiring loom at the grill side of the battery tray, which is attached to the battery tray by cable tie, it helps if you can break the cable tie, to allow more movement of the ECU, you can sort of lift the ECU halfway out in order to have more room, then there is another loom on the right hand side of the tray held in place by two clips, I just bent these clips downward to break them off, I couldn't get the loom around them otherwise, then on the left side of tray there is a cable attached to the tray via plug, I broke this off, the plug does not just knock out easily lol then on the rear side of tray you will find that the silver things are very tightly fitted, I had a hosed pipe there that was trapped and preventing the silver things from lifting up, then I managed to get the tray out Next I found the airbox didn't want to just pull out, apart from the obvious fixings it's held in place at the rear which just pulls out, and then the cold induction pipe holds the box in place also, lots of pulling and shoving and eventually it came out, I even thought it wasn't going to come out and I would have to put everything back as it was... anyway as most threads will tell you, take pics of the whole battery area before you loosen one bolt, so you can check things out when re-assembling.. some may have found it easy to do, I thought it was a pretty crappy job to do Sorry for dark pic of installation, it got late, started at 4:30 finished at 7:00
I may return to stock, the dumping is pretty loud, more loud outside, I was hoping for a bit of turbo chatter, but after reading up on it, I'm not sure if I want it As for the dumping, I had it on my F1 so was hoping for something a little different
You need a blanking plate, or a piston type recirc valve, which will give you a mixture of dumping/chatter.
Hi Ryan, yep I was going to blank the recurc valve and then saw on some forums you can just add a one way valve in-line on the recurc pipe that returns the air, same effect, however lot of people saying it does no harm to turbo and a lot saying it kills turbo, until everyone says it does no harm then I'll stay away
You could argue that it hurts the turbo but, in the time you own the car, I would be surprised if it made any real difference. I think @-Jamie- has run with a blank for a long time without any issues. Cosworths and the like never had a recirc valve I don't think, never did them any harm. I will probably fit the blank to mine at some point. It's a bit pointless, but I like a bit of chatter.
I've probably done around 70k if not more on stock and Hybrid combined with blanking plate with no issues. The stock turbo that came off mine done around 70k and had zero play or damage
Just a thought, but why blank off the recirculating valve, why not just clamp the hose closed that comes of the valve? Not sure what pressure is being diverted back, possibly would end up with the return pipe being blown of the recirc? Any idea how strong the spring is in a BOV, that should give you an indication? Would be a whole lot easier to do, and undo, if it works
The pipe is there to assist the spring with boost pressure to keep the valve shut, it's the vacuum created when you shut the throttle that opens the valve (through the same pipe), the spring is only there to keep pressure on the valve off boost and keep the intake system sealed. if you remove the pipe and block it off you will get bugger all boost.
