Sorted the Wing mirrors, with silver vision bulbs From this... And now this Also got a bag of LEDs to do the interior lights and maybe number plate light, not sure if i want them mega bright
Made a start on the Interior lights, could not work out the glovebox one? and will order some new rear number plate holders as the current ones have seen better days Before After Before After A few pics of the Roof light unit
How do I the roof lights pull out, want to do mine. Had a quick yank but it seems pretty well fitted to the roof.
i got a set of trim removal tools, they are really handy. you just have to leaver it out gently from the side nearest the wing mirror
Washed Waxed and fitted my R26R spoiler (painted by The Dent Man St Helens) and painted, polished and refit my handles and door badges. Wanted it close to original colour
Fitted one of my own steering swivel grease bolts and "greased" bearing remotely on one side. Got distracted cleaning up caliper and also trying to persuade pads pins out. Then the rain came so only done one side. Here's one I made earlier: RS 175 Cup Lux
Replaced NS swivel bearing think I'd had my value from it at 150k: All built back up with new bearing and one of my swivel grease bolts. Note the zerk is in the park position after greasing: RS 175 Cup Lux
^ that bearing has seen better days... Zerk? Maybe the nipple (or a hex head bolt) 'untightened' against the bottom bolt would stop the top bolt from working loose?
Zerk: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_fitting I've no issue with bolts working loose? Bottom bolt only works loose if bearing seizes and the turret is turned with the bearing. That's what loosens off the bolt. If you keep them greased you won't have the issues. The zerk would just shear off if you used it to restrain the bolt.
Before: After: Slight pit corrosion. Nothing too bad for 150k! Most of the actual corrosion is beneath the bearing line at the bottom where the seal is. What the actual bearing runs on was fairly smooth. With regular greasing I won't have any issues again.
H&R springs springs fitted, new Cup 2 tyres on the front and powder coated wheels! The springs replaced the Cup ones which someone had previously fitted (non-cup car) and I have to say they are better; more progressive and really great control when pushing on. The Cup 2's just grip and hold on forever when up to temperature, the best tyres I've experienced and really help to make better use of the 348lbs of torque! The wheels are simply stunning now thanks to Frear's Wheels in Scunthorpe who did a fantastic job. Powerflex front mount insert being fitted on Monday (vibratechnics torque link already done) and creaking swivel bearing (I think!) Also being sorted. Getting there :-)
It would give you a 0.01% improvement. I'd agree if the turret was constantly rotating at speed but in this case the bearings (especially Caged INA ones) move little and slowly. We know they move when rusted to hell and seized, so well greased new bearings on polished turrets are 99.9% perfect. Honestly you could blow on the outer hub and it would oscillate round the strut after they were all built up. The only real wear to the turret was surface pit corrosion, possibly hydrogen embrittlement when manufacturing.
Fitted a straight through section instead of the mid silencer and did some more cleaning. It pops nicely now as it was almost silent before! Decat next after new tyres and insurance are paid for! These mk3's sound so much nicer on the overrun compared to the R26's!
Can someone help me, i need the dimensions of grease bolts, one friend wants but i don't remember the dimensions. Thanks in advance.
Cleaned the steering wheel. I've got this tip from some detailers and it's working really well on the RS wheel: This removes oil, sweat and all kind of dirt from the leather around the wheel. The result is a dry good grip wheel and it does look better. I used Poorboys World Natural Look to feed the black interior parts. Natural Look alternatives are welcome!
Retro-fitted an RS Monitor today. Took it for a blast to have a play. I've waited 7 years to be able to lower the gear change beep. 6k is too high. Also, changed my std head unit to an Arkamys whilst I was at it. It came with the Monitor so thought may as well. I'm not an audio guru so I can't really tell any difference tbh. Fitted some £17 tweeters too. Again, not sure if i can notice any difference as yet.
rs monitor? for which megane rs where did you source the monitor and how much? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
RS 250, 2010. The 250 RS Monitors are plug and play. Second hand. Someone on here was breaking an RS250. I asked and it had the RS Monitor. I paid £200 and it came with an Arkamys head unit too. You've got to be quick mind, they're like rocking horse shit.
hmm will have to keep an eye open for the 275 one kicking around Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I would like the RS Monitor but i have the same unit model as Jamie here on the forum but yet mine doesn't seem to have it. On topic: Had all 4 wheels changed from Diamond cut to Gloss black, i liked the diamond cut but the corrosion was a pain in the ass.
Replaced the front section of the front inner arch liners, one came loose at Spa and wore a hole in it Replaced them with a couple from ebay, fit really well and are a bit thicker than the original's
my steering felt really heavy this morning, get to look at the wheels and see a screw right on the very edge of tread/side wall
fitted some heko wind deflectors on. fitted a forge atmospheric dump valve (no additional lag and pops a little more now) also fitted some h&r lowering springs. only a small drop on the rs with the cup chassis but.. looks better will post some pics tomorrow if time allows. also gave it a quick clean but that was yesterday to be honest with you all [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Changed all of my interior bulbs for white LEDs today. Also did the side lights, rear number plate lights and boot light too.
