Mk3 Uprated clutch...

@cgrautomotive has got it fitted and is bedding it in. Expect a more thorough review but initial comments to me were...

- clutch is light, similar to standard
- bite is higher than standard
- engagement in 1st/reverse is far less abrupt than a racing clutch but more abrupt than standard. This is expected to change as it beds in

 

It's a thinner SMF than the one currently offered from TTV that pairs with the standard, single plate clutch

So instead of DMF and single plate clutch rated for ~380lb/ftish, this is SMF and twin plate clutch rated for ~550lb/ft

 

I asked previously. Can't be done in space available

 

I think the reason "it works" is because they have a standard 230mm twin clutch design that, I assume, is modified to fit the gearbox housing but ultimately the clutch mechanism is the same and flywheel made to fit

 

I'm not a garage - who knows how many times they will take bits out and check them over

 

Yeah sorry, wasn't meant to be defensive. Simply meaning to say I reckon any race car can run pretty much anything because they can strip everything down regularly

 

I've now done around 2,300 miles on the clutch with the vast majority being motorway miles - probably 2,000 of them at least. I've also done a track day at Donington, and a few laps of a (wet) Nurburgring, and a bit of daily driving.

Here's the review from a user experience point of view...

INITIAL IMPRESSION
=====

After the install, first / reverse are very "sudden" and first to second is a difficult change. The biting point is also very high, as well as being less progressive than standard.

Clearly, it needs to bed in and at the time I thought, "hmm..................... that's a lot of change required before I'd be happy with it".

The gear selection is also more 'solid'. I'm not sure why that would be, but it just is. I had a new slave cylinder put in at the same time and the pedal is firmer - but not 'race car' firm, just 'new car firm'. I would need to drive a new 275, but I would assume it's probably about the same as a new car. It's about as heavy as my old 135i pedal was.

There is a rattle when the car has been ragged and is then stationery. This is the transmission. Dipping the clutch pedal gets rid of the noise. I believe that's to do with the SMF and not the clutch.

On 'over-run', i.e. high revs and dropping under braking, or just coasting, there's a subtle noise I really quite like. Difficult to describe but it's like a pleasant grazing of metal.

On the road it was generally more difficult to get smooth changes between 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Beyond that it was fine.

It doesn't seem any more "revvy" with an SMF compared to the DMF.

On the road - wouldn't have been an upgrade I'd want in a road car.

On the track - due to the bite point and lack of progression, the first track day had a few jerky gear changes and I got the smell of clutch burning after the first session.... but then it seemed to improve.

Traffic jams weren't that much fun as pulling away in first sometimes had judder and required more revs, so you could look like a bit of a muppet in town as you edge away with high revs.

There is also a 'groaning' noise when reversing, or sometimes pulling away in first. Apparently this is normal.


IMPRESSION NOW
=====

Everything I hoped it would be, it is. There is a bite adjuster for the clutch which is going to get installed, to drop the bite point so it's more 'mid-arc' than being at the top of the pedal movement and I'm hoping that will make it perfect. The bite point is the only thing I want to change

It's still getting "better" after town driving but I honestly couldn't say I think about it anymore. The juddering when pulling away in first has pretty much gone. The bite 'window' is bigger, but it's not as progressive as a stock clutch. Changes from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are now smooth.

The pedal is still firm but not too hard. Traffic jams aren't any more of an issue than any manual car.... I've got used to driving an auto as a daily driver

The groaning is still there but doesn't bother me.

The rattle is there after hard sessions on track, but doesn't bother me.


CONCLUSION
=====

If you aren't planning on running big torque, then clearly there's no issue with the standard clutch

If you have a failed DMF, then the cost of the kit is probably not worth swapping to unless you particularly want an SMF. I don't know why you would, as the engine doesn't feel any more responsive

If you are planning higher torque and want something that'll take it with no issues, then I can definitely recommend this as being as close to stock as you could wish for. I've driven 'race clutches' before and they are cack for normal driving round town. This is not.

I can't think why anyone would want a 400lb/ft as a daily driver, but if you did, this ticks your box.