Bit of a marmite subject and dirty word to some. Got some ktec ones on my meg at the moment but would the bolt on H&R/Eibach ones be better/safer/more reliable?
Don't know about safer or more reliable. There's not really a lot you can get wrong when machining a wheel spacer, as long as it fits it's good. And as for it being a taboo subject, people hear the opinion of 1 and then copy it. No harm done by spacers imo.
Just assumed there'd be some validation for charging £100 for H&R ones or £50 odd quid for the 'floating' KTEC style ones. I want to buy some aftermarket rims with a lower offset but this would be a cheaper option
The bolt on spacer is much less safer than a simple slipon with longer threads! The stress (load) that the bolt on ones are subjected to is soo much more intense than for the slip on that they cant even be compared. The slipon are behaving much stiffer and allow for much less deformatio. Actually the slipon is as stiff as the hub is, while the bolton lowers the stiffnes of the whole system and behaves like a spring actually. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Well I'm sure they've sold plenty of both and I've never seen any examples of wheel bolts sheering or wheels coming off. It's just forum talk as with a lot of things
That is correct! Cheapre here is better. Ie slipons I made a FE analysis of this and my "assumpsion" was prowed correct. I am am mag. ing. And have 5 years of structural FE analysis, few published studies in journal's and consortiums. Edit: Tho I should really improve my English Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Ha your English is good. Much better than my Croatian!! It is just hard to understand sometimes that cheaper is better! Thanks
I agree with Milos. My Porsche race car uses cheapo generic alloy spacers with longer studs driven into the hubs i.e. replacing the existing studs. I was a bit weary of this when the car was being built but the outfit that did it have built somewhere around 20 to 30 944 or 968 race cars over the years. A couple of other race outfits I know also used the same cheapo spacers. Never once heard of anyone having a problem with them and that is a lot of race cars over many years. Keep on top of nut tightness though and regularly check your hubs, which if your tracking your car you should be doing in between each visit to the track. Wheel nuts I torque up/check usually maybe 3 to 4 times of more during a day at the track. The bolt on spacers are also really heavy.
I have the ktec spacers fitted for nearly 12 months now with no issues. Plus the spacers are made by bimecc not ktec
For those interested in spacers you should know that BIMECC spacers are advertised as German TUV compliant and after ordering a set when I asked for the TUV certificate they back-peddled REALLY quickly and admitted they had never been tested and are NOT certificated for use in Germany. They still advertise them as TUV tested but they are NOT. These are made in Italy so it's a case of buyer beware!!!!
Just to add.....the H&R bolt on type spacers are weaker than the slip-on style as the bolts holding the spacers (and wheel) on to the hub are only approximately 10mm where the OEM bolts, or better studs to the discs, are approx 16mm. This then means the fixing point of the wheel, tyre and added weight of the spacer is fixed on using a smaller bolt!!
Bolt through are definitely a better structural solution. The bolt on with stud type are normally designed for car shows and the like. Hence the smaller bolt diameter. It allows for a variation in PCD and counter sinking centres them. Not a great solution. RS 175 Cup Lux
Can someone post a link to some front spacers for the R26?? Is 10mm the correct size and do the wheels still locate on the hubs at this size ?