175 DCI P2101 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by Jakg, Dec 26, 2016.

  1. Had the "check injection" message appear the other day, with the above fault code being logged.

    I've cleared it but when I restart the engine it comes back.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. Don't know the fault codes but just had car serviced and although had no lights on dash, said it had a throttle potentiometer fault. Had to press throttle over halfway to get any serious engine response. Was a reflash of software they did. Not sure if that helps ....
     
  3. Feels more like your intake is full on carbon deposits which affects the movement range of the throttle actuator. i would start with a good clean in that area and maybe a EGR off of some sort to keep things cleaner for the future.

    S.
     
  4. EGR delete is part of my plan long term - and you're probably right about the throttle actuator - although I didn't think diesels had throttles. I've had a look in the workshop manual and I can't see a throttle listed for the M9R, but I can see an "air inlet flap" which looks remarkably similar.

    My plan was to buy a Clip long term anyway so I was going to buy one now to see if I could get more diag information.
     
  5. You have both. A throttle valve and a vacuum intake flap both for EGR reasons.
    S.

    Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
     
  6. I've scanned it using a clip and of course you were correct - "DF645 INLET AIR FLAP POSITION CONTROL".

    I'll have a look at the cleaning process. Hopefully I can just take one end off and squirt some brake cleaner in as access to that area is quite restricted.
     
  7. I took the flap out today - I was a bit scared reading the workshop manual about removing the bumper etc but none of that was necessary.

    UqnuaD6.jpg

    There was a little oil in there but nothing that bad, I cleaned it up regardless.

    KMGkPGD.jpg

    Ig18gee.jpg

    tcuEnqE.jpg

    I also cleaned all the plugs out with contact cleaner. Flap seemed to move freely, although it was hard to move due to the spring.

    Further down the inlet I could see some crud but as this is where the EGR is that is to be expected - but nothing significant.

    vH4AE60.jpg

    Here's hoping it goes away (I may have to reset the light again to find out though).
     
  8. if you remove the bottom pipe on the following photo that were the much is blocking the EGR flap. Just had it last week i know you pain very difficult access.
    vH4AE60.jpg
     
  9. Ok - I thought the flap was in the throttle I removed. Are you saying it's actually an EGR issue?
     
  10. sound like it. if the egr valve flap cannot close or open properly because of the oily gunk that accumulate over time then the car through a check injection and sometime a check emission as well even though the car appears to drive normally.

    Just had this 2 weeks ago, had it on clip, error said it was EGR fault, dismantle the lot gave it a good clean and fault went off dash stright away no issue since. Actually car sound better and drives a bit better too.
     
  11. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    Was it easy to remove that lot @Jakg ? It's on my list of to-do's
     
  12. Could you give me a little more detail of how you did this please? Did you remove the pipe and leave the EGR in situ or something else?
    To get to where I was wasn't too hard, just fiddly. 1/4" ratchet and some short extensions are all you need.
     
  13. Basicaly i took the throttle body off, the stainless steel pipe off the EGR off and cleaned the lot.

    Dipped the EGR valve side in petrol and cleaned it thoroughly (careful not to dip the motor or plug), did the same with the pipe, by pushing a rag full of petrol through it to clean inside.
    Wiped it all dry .
    All you need is a 10mm extra long socket, a small ratchet 1/4", a flat screwdriver (or a long 7mm socket for the jubilee clip)
    http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-ste...tracking url&gclid=CKrv_Man2tECFQoA0wodBIcMZg

    took me 2 hours to undo and refit all but again depends on experience really.
    Hope this help.
     
  14. Does anyone check during a MOT if the EGR is there? Because we could just take the whole lot out, map out the electrical faults, block the intake and the exhaust and that is the end of the job. I consider doing this on my car later this year because I need the EGR control for my water injection system and I'm too lazy to clean all those black ugly parts.

    S.
     
  15. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    I'm sure it can just be software disabled to save a lot of messing about (useless if it's jammed open/closed mind)
     
  16. It can definitely be just disabled but I want to free some space there for my water injection system and also to use the current wiring to drive the WI system. So I'm looking to throw it away completely.

    S.
     
  17. Someone on the Facebook group has removed it completely.
     
  18. Took the EGR out today - very very fiddly but I managed to do it all from above without removing the bumper.

    EGR and the surrounding pipework was caked with carbon deposits after all so that's probably what's been causing the issue.

    Cleaned it up and will see how I get on tomorrow.

    vtTnkiR.jpg

    Cut three fingers three separate times on the tabs on the EGR exhaust gaskets. Ouch. Engine is covered in my blood now.
     
  19. Reset the light with Clip and it's yet to come back. I think it's fixed :smile:
     
  20. I've cleaned the EGR again, reset it on Clip, but the fault comes back after a while - I think this suggests that it's a fault with the throttle flap thing?
     
  21. Using Clip, I was able to test the actuator on the car.

    FJfADdv.jpg


    This allowed me to see that the actuator was working

    HOJTA2B.jpg

    4B0a2qQ.jpg

    I was a bit stumped at this point so I had a look inside

    DoiVEHS.jpg

    Basic motor setup with a contract / track setup to record the position of the flap.

    You can see the contacts highlighted in red

    BbzMYRc.jpg

    I noticed that one actuator had a lot more carbon on the ends of the contacts. I cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner, and bent the contacts up slightly to make better contact with the tracks. Seems to have fixed it for the last couple of months!
     
    CJ_RSport likes this.
  22. eee, thanks for this. Recently I noticed when I start the car, RPM went up and down at idle state. default is 750/min, they were dancing between 650-900 i guess. After scaning error codes I found P2101. After few min, RPM went back to normal.
    tHe interseting part is no engine light, car runing normaly.
    First I thoght TB is dirty but it was shiny. And thankfully I found this post, yes, TB contacts are at minimum, so I bend the contacts a little and there we go. I deleted the error code and so far it is working. How long, we will see?

    the car is nissan qashqai 2.0dci M9R 2007 @190.000km
     
  23. Hope it works out for you - interesting to know I’m not the only one who had this problem :smile:
     

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