Megane 265 upgrade

3. Tyres, tyres, tyres.

 

Driver training is where the biggest performance gain is, by far, unless you're already a serious track pedaler or racing driver. And you can take it with you for the next car !

 

Anything better than you have, with all that power traction will be an issue even in the dry.

 

If you're after a higher quality exhaust system we do Megane systems custom built to your specifications, plenty of people on this forum have them fitted. We also sell sports cats/decat pipes to match

http://www.performance-exhausts.co....0-rs265-rs275-3-inch-stainless-exhaust-system

let us know if you want anymore info
info@cgrautomotive.co.uk
01709 530871

 

Ok sure have fun.

 

Personally I would do brakes, tyres and suspension first, before adding power.

I presume you're running Cup 2's/R888's/A048's or similar?

Do you think the extra cost is going to be worth it for ~50bhp? £1300 for that doesn't seem like great bang/buck to me (over the ~310bhp you get from a remap - without addressing heat soak)

 

I would go for brakes every time. I've done 8 track days this year in my 250, and only 1 on the OE pads/lines/fluid. They're just not up to scratch. The suspension, however, is actually not bad. Apart from destroying NSF outside edges on tyres, which negative camber would sort.

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Agreed it's my first road car that is actually decent on track - I use Goodwood to balance the shoulder wear across the axle ;-).

Actually, the NS2Rs have survived quite well but temp management is tricky, finding the sweetspot has taken a while...

 

Same tyres on the same car, suppose it's no surprise we have the same issue! Lol. Think the issue is, you have to run a lot of pressure to stop the tyre rolling, and they overheat so quick because you just aren't getting the full use of the contact patch.

I'm not saying they're the best tyre ever, but I think I've got more performance to gain from them before I get rid, I feel I will just get the same issue with any other tyre.

I think a couple of degrees of negative camber will completely transform them.

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I don't like telling people specific brands etc. I can tell you what works for me. But I don't use the car on the road really.

I only say that, because what works for me, you could hate, and vise versa....

Best thing I can suggest, read about the different pads, the compounds used when making them, and also the pad manufacturer's description of them. Things like temperature coefficient and wear rate are usually given by the bigger brands. Gives you chance to decide what you want from the pads, with advice from the people who made them guiding your decision..

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Yes agreed Dale - my only concern is that there isn't a simple off-the-shelf solution for camber is there ?

Also, won't it change the rear end from playful too a little too playful ? I don't really want to add rear camber to match the front as it might make the car that little bit too unstable under braking - also concerned about loss of traction.

I normally start cold pressure at 2.1 bars at the front and they seem to plateau a bit at 2.5 bars hot but then creep into the 2.6/2.7 zone after 5/6 laps. I then lower them back to 2.4 hot to try and optimise patch size but that's a faff as I have to then increase them again if I have a long break as they would start at 1.9 or so cold which is too low and damages the shoulders by rolling, as you say. This is all on 180. Is that what you run or are you on 120?

Apart from that, I am on 6k miles including 40 Spa laps, 40 Ring laps and 200 miles at Bedford. Had to swap back to front and only 3mm left at the rear (old fronts) but 5mm left at the front (old rears) - I probably have enough for Silverstone but might probably renew after that or after the next one. All in all, a lot of tyres for the money!

 

Now, these are provided by the individual manufacturers, it's not necessary to worry about the out and out figures, just the pad compound's individual relationship with temperature, use the graphs as a generalization. The little table about the ferrodo compounds gives the graph context, and might help you understand why a track day only pad would not be the best choice for a road car, although not as bad as some people like to claim.

Hope that helps you decide.








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Agree with every part of this. I've gotten the 180 too, and have had similar wear, I have front to back swapped after every day.

The pressure adjustment can be a pain, but I mark my tyres like I've mentioned in another thread once they're hot, and I go off the wear on the markers. Adjusting by 1 or 2 psi at a time.

The top mounts from ast or silverproject I believe, both fit the standard damper. A guy in a 250 identical to mine, but with top mounts fitted with around 2-2.5° of negative camber was on the same trackday as me at oulton park, and he was having none of the issues. He had also experienced them before the top mounts.

I think it's all a risk/reward balance, but the tyres running too high to compensate for roll, may not be delivering optimum braking performance either.............

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Brakes, every time. It's probably the weakest point of the standard setup in my opinion. You only really need decent pads and fluid to begin with, which isn't too expensive.