Fast road front brake set up

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by BEEFTEC, Nov 27, 2016.

  1. Hi guys.

    After getting fed up with the brutal dust and squeal from the DS1.11 pads I ran for a while, I swapped them back to standard pads, but the power of them is shockingly bad. I have to really stamp on them to slow from any sort of speed. My discs have also got a bit of a lip on them now so going to change both.

    Pads wise I don't want to spend a lot, so i'm pretty much sold on Mintex M1144 pads - At £70 I don't think I can go wrong considering DS2500 are double that. I can then fit my DS1.11's for trackdays.

    Disc wise I could go for plain brembo HC, but I know that grooves and hooks can help on track so instead i've been looking at Godspeed discs.

    http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/discs/261-clio-sport-197200-front-g-hook-discs-.html

    In particular the G hook discs at £125. Price seems good, centres are coated to stop them corroding and they look a bit more interesting than plain discs.

    Anybody used G hook discs before?

    I've read they make a bit of a humming noise under heavy braking but my brakes do that now so just after some overall thoughts really
     
    Nigelo likes this.
  2. i've used godspeed various times on my vehicles and the discs are good..
    ive always used the grooved ones.. but will be using their hooked rotors next on my race car..
    so only after that can i comment on the noise.. but as im using race pads they have been noisy anyway..
     
  3. Well at least I know the discs are decent quality.

    Mtec also do hooked discs and about £30 cheaper but i've not read the best thing about Mtec
     
  4. Plain discs have proven better than grooved ones on track by all accounts on French RS forums with a far greater sample of cars.
    For road use, the OE pads should be fine if the rest of the system is fine.
    The limiting factor is always front tyre adhesion. Hot pads are only necessary on track for endurance and heat management and to match track tyres.
     
  5. Why would grooved discs exist if there's no advantage to them? I know HC discs are good, but surely there is some truth in the grooves reducing pad glaze / deposits?

    The OE pads aren't working for me at all. Even coming off a slip road at a decent pace I'm applying a big chunk of pressure to the pedal. My rears are new, front calipers are new and fluid is new, so i've only got front discs and pads to replace now.
     
  6. Glazing shouldn't be a problem on the road. Empirical experience has shown the grooved version have proved an issue, at least on track but I don't know why. The classic cheese grater effect maybe.
    You symptoms are very strange but would indicate glazed discs. You may want to try and clean them up, a full bedding in process again may help if you have a quiet dual carriageway near you, worth a try.
     
  7. Glazed discs wouldn't surprise me tbh - Running the DS1.11 pads on the road for over 6 months wasn't my best move. They we're powerful but barely being worked on the road - They're obviously not made to work at low temps and so a bit of a come back from this is kind of expected.

    As the discs have a bit of a lip to them now anyway i'd rather just replace, as then my whole brake setup is new all round.

    I'll do some further research on the discs - I was reading papps project thread and saw that he went from grooved R26R discs to Brembo HC's and then ended up swapping them out for Godspeed G hooks because the HC discs were overheating on track.

    I know i'm asking about a fast road brake set-up but I do want to do a couple of trackdays next year so want something that will work all round.
     
  8. Ah OK, fair enough. I run OE plain discs and PFC Z-rated pads on Motul 600 fluid. Very happy on road and track.
     
    Lewis likes this.
  9. 100% correct and a point missed by most people.

    However, having said that, both Meganes I've had haven't been able to generate enough braking force to overcome the front tyre grip (in optimum conditions). This is with standard, new OEM setups. The brakes on the Megane aren't up to the standard of the rest of the car, and I consider them the worst part of the whole package.

    The 172 I had would easily overcome the front grip, whilst lifting you off the seat and straining against the belt, such was the dry grip and the braking force.

    OP - I've had the setup you mention on a Clio (M1144 & HC discs), and for the price would definitely recommend it as a improvement over the standard setup.
     
    Lewis likes this.
  10. I think for the price I don't think i'll do much better than M1144 & HC discs. But i don't mind spending a bit extra for a bit of extra track performance when needed - IF grooves did give me that which it seems they might not.

    Tyre wise I'm running Pilot super sports now and planning AD08R next so tyre grip will be up there with the best.

    I'll do some more reading and get some more opinions on discs choice, thanks for yours
     
  11. caymanr26

    caymanr26 Events Liason

    IMG_6516.JPG I just got these ready to fit - won't be used on track but fancied the g hooks so I got them to machine the hooks into a set of plain rears too
    Look great and should improve braking a lot! I'm going for ds2500 but only as had lots of squeal from 1144's on my old 182
     
  12. For fast road, standard discs (grooved or not, irrelevant) and updated pads

    For track, I'm yet to find something where the pedal doesn't go soft. It's a cooling issue I think
     
  13. And a weight issue too I guess ! A bit like me after Xmas.
     
    Space Cadet likes this.
  14. im using Carbon lorraine RC6 pads, godspeed discs and CL race brake fluid and never had pedal go during any races or testing
    fluid is big factor.. hence why i went to the expensive stuff, the castrol SRF is good too..
     
  15. They look mega, but 330mm discs are mega money too!

    I had 2500 pads on my 197, they we're good with only a small amount of squeal - But from what I gather M1144's do much the same job for half the price which is why i'm keen to try them. Also if I don't get on with them i've not spent too much.
     
  16. caymanr26

    caymanr26 Events Liason

    Yeah good call - I'm half tempted to do the same - discs cost enough!
    Just nervous of squeal - only lasted 2 weeks on my Clio before I bough a normal set of brembo pads
     
  17. yeah I've got M1144 on mine and I get a fair bit of squeal at low speeds and it's doing my head in.

    What to do?! Don't like the sound of £30 OEM's and going to a lesser pad (or are they alright?)

    And don't want anything track orientated that needs a lot of heat and kicks out a load of dust
     
  18. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    All you need to do is give them a good hard press now and again, but make sure there isn't anything behind you.
    I am running CL6's and very rarely get a peep out of them.
     
  19. To get rid of the screech? Tried it a couple of times, guess I'm not pressing hard enough!
    What is it that screeches? I've got some 2nd hand brembos that I'm going to clean up and put new seals in over Christmas. Easy for a DIY'er to chop over on the drive and swap pads over/check pads?
     
  20. I do the exact same to my RC6's to get rid of the squeal, never really hear from them
     
    Danith likes this.
  21. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    I think it just a glaze build up on the disc's, i use my brakes quite hard most of the time :laughing:
    If you do decide to have a go at doing a refurb, make sure everything is clean before you start putting it back together, give yourself plenty of space as well, when you start putting things back together, coat everything in new brake fluid, if you are going this far then changing the flexies and the brake fluid, good brake fluid that is.
    Pads are easy to do as long as you can get the pins out.
     
    Danith likes this.
  22. Only had the lines changed over to goodridge a couple of months ago. It'll need a re bleed then?

    had Mr Pinks pins put in while he did the poly bushes too so pads should at least be easy?

    ta
     
  23. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    what fluid did you or they put in, really is worth putting in some "racing/performance" fluid, as you now have stainless hoses you can't clamp them, so you will have to be quick swapping them over, when you do swap them, leave the bleed valves open and make sure the fluid is kept topped up, when fluid comes out of the bleed valves and no air bubbles then close the valves, should only then need rechecking just before fitting the wheels.
     
    Danith likes this.
  24. Mark Black did it. I keep forgetting to ask but think he used ate typ 200. Cheers will have a butchers then. Doesn't look particularly tricky as long as I get away with bleeding!
     
  25. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    If you follow what i said to do with the bleed valves you should manage it okay, just recheck for air before putting the wheels on.
     
    Danith likes this.
  26. A quick tip is - If you depress the brake pedal and hold it down with a piece of wood wedged against the seat, this stops fluid draining out of the reservoir when you remove the old calipers.

    You can then fit the new ones, open the bleed nipples, remove the wood and bleed normally.

    If you've not bled brakes before - A gunson eezibleed makes it dead easy, well worth the tenner or so.

    Also - Word of caution on rebuilding brembos. I did mine and found that the bleed nipples we're seized into the caliper and damaged the caliper on the way out. If i were to do it again, i'd wire brush round the nipples and keep applying plus gas and or heat to help them break the seal.
     
    Danith likes this.
  27. Ali and steel don't mix - they always seize :sob:
     
    Danith likes this.
  28. Yup. I ended up buying new calipers because I wasn't so sure on helicoiling those threads.

    I've now fitted stainless nipples with plenty of copper grease and i'll probably crack them open once a year now!
     
    Xanda73 and Danith like this.
  29. Just got my kit in post and the bellends didnt send me the nipples.
    Might just give it the garage! Needs discs and pads anyway
     
  30. You wanna try performance friction discs with xp8 pads they won't overhear.
     
  31. Overkill for a road car tho. Too much £. But yeah I rate performance friction pads, had em on my e36.
    Gonna go m1144 and brembo hc discs
     
    grantw likes this.
  32. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    I used to have the odd issue with an inconsistent pedal with ate superbluea but it was hard to replicate, I've never had any issues since going to a better fluid, than includes 25+ minute stints on track. Hell I done a 50 min stint out at Spa and the pedal remained solid throughout, on RS29s
     
  33. NJH

    NJH

    Big fan of the M1144 pads for fast road use. Had them on my R26 for about 10 months now, shame I don't use the car more but they are lasting well. As others have said the squeal comes from light braking too often, having said that they bite hard very quickly so a shove on the pedal is like chucking the anchor out. Motul RBF 660 fluid for me.
     
    Danith likes this.
  34. [QUOTE="-Jamie-, post: 142480, member: 45"I've never had any issues since going to a better fluid[/QUOTE]

    Motul RBF 660 is what i'm using
     
  35. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    Weird, your one of the first out of the ones I know that track theirs heavily that has mentioned the pedal going soft, Maybe worth adjusting your bricking style on track? Or there is an underlying issue potentially?
     
  36. Short and hard works well for me. Ah ah.
     
  37. ooer..well I say!
     
    nickfrog likes this.
  38. I'm using the exact same set up, works perfect, great for road and track.

    Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
     
  39. -Jamie-

    -Jamie- RSM Moderator

    I'm surprised people rate the 1144s on the Meganes for track work, I found them to be inadequate on a 150bhp fiesta even with proper cooling
     
  40. The problem with the harder pads, like the carbons is that they eat discs and they're noisy most of the time.
    Mind you, my latest set of 1114's are squealing on the offside at very low speeds.

    Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
     

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