I picked up a spare 225 fuel sender along with my 250 sender I already had. My concern was the pump, and how much more current it would suck if asked to deliver 5.5bar (or how long it would last). When I get round to it, I want to try and see if I could create a bit of a Frankenstein sender from parts of the 250 in the 225 sender casing. Could then even run a separate line direct from the battery with a relay to power the 250 (or up rated) pump to avoid any electrical issues. Regarding the 250 tb and cutting out, even Paul told me the same thing. Nobody really knows why, but he suspected that that the 250 ecu ran slightly different voltages. If you get it working reliably, I would get it fitted again. Of course, with doing any of these mods means a long round trip to Paul to get the map tweaked to suit. And now I have the car running well, I'd rather spend the money on track time and tyres! Well until I get bored with it again...
I'm pretty clued up on these ecu's these days so i'm sure i'll manage I'm sure using the 250pump and retrofitting the 250 fpr is the way forward, i have only seen 1 report of someone frying a few tracks on the uch but in france they don't seem to have any problem with it so i suspect a different issue with the one reported
He's a bloody cheat with his stage 1 mountune upgrade but we'll still be quicker through the twisties Another friend had the same stage 1 upgrade from mountune. His car was about 6 months old with less than 5 k miles... took it to silverstone a few weeks ago and it put a rod through the block!!!!!! Here's hoping the same happens to his chav box
Found out why mine was slow and the air leaking being the cause, 3 of the four bolts holding the turbo on had fallen out so he was well over 100 bhp more than mine then, what a waste of money I wouldn't laugh, not that much
Makes me want to check mine! At the moment I am plagued by the heat shield above the exhaust centre section rattling about
Made a decision today, the 225 gearbox is going in with the 250 engine, there is no way i am going to have an open diff with over 300 hp, but i did try the 250 box first looks as though it will fit, maybe a bit closer to the steering rack but the rest looks clear, the reason for going with the 225 box is that i have already fitted a Quaife limited slip diff last year, so don't want to spend £1200 on another diff for the 250 box, plus the drive shafts won't fit they are not the same size collars, i need to do a bit of research on the DCi 175 drive shafts to see if they will fit. The gearbox's are the same length, so doesn't stick through any further than the standard one. So next was the swapping over the clutch's and flywheels. For reference for anyone 250 and 225 flywheel height difference everything else looks the same Here you can see where the difference in the height comes from Who said that you can fit a 250mm clutch plate, i am guessing there is only a couple or 3mm spare. So then the next part was to fit the 225 gearbox to the 250 engine and put it back in the space it came out of, not yet ready to start but it's on its way. Sorry i didn't realise how bad this picture was
Lol, pretty bad pic indeed but your on the right way mate! Could you check if you could see part nr's on the 250 cover? Seeing the offset in the flywheel it does look alot like the r26.r (dci) combination.
From memory, I think you have to make a bit of adjustment to the driveshaft mounts at the back of the 250 engine where the drivers side driveshaft goes behind the block when using the 225 driveshafts.
Reconnected the electrics, this is the modification i did when i moved the battery to the boot, but forgot to take any pictures then covered it with a piece of thick plastic, don't want it shorting out as it will take some time to get to, as it's under the charge cooler.
Spent the time i had on it today replacing the ball joints and refitting them, ordered a pair of (Febi part no. 22279) they turned up today, so to remove the old ones blocked up the arm on two pieces of steel on the floor and two really good wacks with a 4lb lump hammer and they were out. To fit the new ones, blocked up again on two bit of steel and drove them in using a 36mm socket. fitted the arms back in, i have left the adjustable bushes in, but this time i have creamed up the bolts and punched in the bracket to lock the collar so it shouldn't turn. Then refitted the subframe. Fitted the drive shafts, the drivers side one slotted straight in, i did use the 225 mount from my engine, so that is maybe why it went in okay. @ewant81 i think if i had left the 250 mount on it might have been a different story.
Good progress mate, thanks for the part number, unfortunately it's a renault number so not much to find online. I'm wondering if they used the same cover plate as the R26.... Anyone know what torque standard 250 clutches will handle?
Good progress mate! Be interesting to see this in the new year On a side note.. seeing as hardly anyone knows much about the megs in Cornwall, you dont do private work on the side? Will be looking at a suspension refresh and engine mounts in the new year and noone around here is really interested in fitting any of it
Hi Si I can do that sort of thing for you no problem, i have done a few suspension changes, brake changes and even engine repairs, cam belts etc. I also have Clip the Renault software not 100% up on all it's facility's but getting there. Where about's are you in Cornwall ????
Brilliant! Going to collect all the parts together in new year and just get it all done. It has a terrible pull to the left at the moment Are you able to do the lower bearing change on the hubs? Im in St.Austell but don't mind travelling for someone to do it properly struggled so bad to find anyone with knowledge of these around here
Okay, just got to get mine out of the workshop first. I am waiting for someone to make an adaptor for my throttle body so i can connect up my charge cooler. I'll PM you my phone number
Progress over the last week or so has been a little slow, a friend has a friend that is making me an adaptor to go from the throttle body to my charge cooler, i should see it in the new year. I have now put virtually everything back together apart from fitting the wheels. The 250 intake manifold is a bit longer than the 225 one by a good 2 or 3 inches (sorry 50-75mm ) so this doesn't leave me that much room now to get my pipework in. 225 set up this is now the room i have to play with.
Well i thought i would run up the engine, i know that the intake is open due to not having the adaptor, but i wasn't going to drive it. Well it started and rev'd to about 1300 rpm and then gradually increased to over 1600 rpm, only ran it for a minute no more then shut it down, checked for air leaks, i even pulled all the pipes off the intake and blocked them all up, started it up again and exactly the same, pushing the throttle raised the rpm's by no more than a couple of 100's, psychically pushed the butterfly closed and the engine revs would drop and then it sounded good, but as soon as i let the butterfly go the rev's went up again. I have tried this before when the 225 engine was in and it was very hard to move the butterfly as the motor in the throttle body was pushing against my effort to move it, it wasn't like this on the 250 throttle body, it didn't feel as if there was any motor resistance only the internal spring. I stripped the 225 throttle body to have a look at the connections inside, quite easy as the cover is held on with torx screws, now for the 250 one, these are riveted on, so bite the bullet and drill them out, removed the cover and so so different to the 225 one On the 225 one, the two big terminals in the middle (3 &4) go to the motor, on the 250 one it's 5 & 6, now this is where i am going to need some help, all 6 pins on the 225 TB are connected, it looks like there in pairs, 1 & 2, 3 & 4(motor) 5 & 6. Can't really work out on the 250 TB what does what, 1,2 & 4 are giving me resistance's, 3 doesn't look as if it is connected to anything, 5 & 6 (motor) Inside 225 throttle body Inside of the 250 Throttle body And the inside of the lid (250) @tutuur I think i seriously need your help please
I'm afraid i can't be of much help here mate, my thought is you haven't got the wires correctly. This is something i still need to figure out, engine is almost ready but got a few more things to sort so won't be starting it anytime soon. I know 2 people who have run the 250 engine in a Clio but one is not responding, the other one is pending. Asked him if he used the 250 tb and if he knows how to wire it
Be great to know, i connected one for one 225 to 250 thought that was to easy, might have a play in the next day or so
Can't be of any help I'm afraid Ian but really enjoying seeing your progress! You'll have it sorted in no time I'm sure Happy new year mate
Cheers mate Going to have to sort it soon as Silverstone isn't that far off and i need to get it remapped as well. If it's not doable in time then the 225 manifold might be going on Happy new year to you as well, see you at Silverstone
I have managed to fudge the 225 throttle body on today, it seems to be running a bit lean as the engine is running at about 1200rpm, i have yet to connect up the inter cooler to the throttle body i will do that later in the week. I just need to know it will run so i can get the map altered to suit, but at least i have time to play with the 250 throttle body now.
Ha Ha Ha, i did start it with the 250 throttle body, but it ran at about 2000rpm and there wasn't any throttle response what so ever, all the wiring is totally different between the two, that's why i had to get the 225 one fitted. You still up for a trip to Leeds ?????
Had to, to make sure the engine was okay, as i have never heard it running and i know now i can make it to Silverstone if i can't get the 250 one to work.
Come on mate get your priorities sorted, can't do the 14th as i am booked in for remapping on the 30th Jan, car is running a bit of a weak mixture i think, so dare not use it till it's sorted, I have booked a track day on the 31st Jan at Oulton Park, well it would be a waste to drive all that way without taking advantage
Can't see it in the pic but did you plug the pressure reference to the rail fpr like i said? If not it's no wonder it's running lean, tha maps have been written for a constant 3,5bar fuel pressure and you're now only getting about 2,8 because of vacuum in the manifold
It is running full pump pressure i am sure, took the fpr valve out removed the valve inside and then removed the air pipe and blocked it off.
