R26 R26 brakes for track days.

I would fit some grooved disks to help with heat and glazing when pushing the brakes hard.
I personally think as you say..quality fluid,braided lines and then a set of either carbotech xp8`s or 10`s,is good enough for trackdays.
I have run xp8`s for years and think they are great for everyday,as well as trackdays..hard cold bite and no fade.
Several other lads on here run the xp8`s for regular track use.
Night and day difference compared to standard pads

Big brake kits have been covered a lot over the years..from what I have concluded is the R26 doesn't need any bigger disks than standard,unless you are a serious amateur racer.

Its a very shrewd move to look at the brakes first..so often overlooked...but with the above fitted the brakes are epic...makes for far faster driving if the brakes are up for the job on the track and fast road..

http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/246-discs

These guys have been around for a long time..and the new g hook disks look tempting at that price.

 

I've raced since 2009, at a fairly decent level, Britcar, MSVR, 750MC Enduro.

With decent pads (Ds1.11, DSUNO, RC5/6 etc etc), and fluid (Motul, Castrol SRF, ATE200 etc) there isn't a requirement for larger diameter discs on an R26 in a mild state of tune. All the 330mm kits other than the Performance Friction kit are toilet in terms of proper motorsport quality anyway.

Save your money!

 

I've experienced Ian at Godspeeed many years ago but wouldn't recommend using him. PM if you'd like any more details.

 

I havnt,but I will be trying the hook design when I need new disks.
When I had subarus,godspeed had a good name..he once refurbed my callipers with stainless steel pistons

 

Interesting because a colleague of mine has a blobeye Scooby and has had constant problems with his Godspeed BBK conversion, always seems like he is battling with some kind of disk warping, brake judder or related noise and vibration problems.

 

From what I've seen the sub £1k discs are usually just butchered bigger OEM discs.
I've got brembo hc discs and ds1.1 pads with ATE superblue fluid and have zero problems road or track.

 

Yep I ran HC discs, rc6 and fluid and brakes never faded once. Could lock semi slicks easy with the performance too.

 

Same for me, HC discs DS1,11 great set up never had a problem on track, but now i have 265 discs and calipers with RC6's simply awesome

 

As others have mentioned,big brakes are not needed on the R26.

I very much doubt there is little,if any difference in quality between various types of standard sized disks..most of them probally Chinese steel,as everything else is these days.

I cant see godspeeds standard sized disks being any different from anyone elses in regards to quality.

For example,i have premium pagid disks on my Puma,and they have warped after a few thousand miles.

I have standard crap bluepoint brakedisks on my pick-up..which have been turned blue at times when worked real hard..and they are still fine..even with a 4mm lip on the outside!

Basically New standard sized disks,braided lines,good fluid and a premium pad,and you are laughing.

 

Friends of ours run the Puma Cup, its one of the things that puts me off those cars as the brakes are really weak but they have kept to stock pattern components to keep costs down for the competitors. I agree that there can't be much difference between the various offerings of standard pattern derived disks, I guess the thing is I struggle to see why anyone needs to spend more money over the Brembo HC on slightly fancier Godspeed ones. I went through this on my race car, ran Sebro cross-drilled then went to Sebro plain pattern replacement disks in both cases with Pagid RS29 pads and no difference I can feel in how well they are working (dataloggers said 1.1g peak either way). Pretty much convinced me that stuff like drilling and slotting are placebos, the real killer is heat and that can only be dealt with by effective cooling ducting.

Reminds me I need to photograph the duct setup I have on the race car, if I end up keeping the Megane as a track day car I will be replicating a similar setup on her.

 

DS1.11 paired with Brembo HC discs, Goodridge lines and some decent fluid will serve you well. I can supply those for you aswel

Tyres wise, I used the Federal RSR and Nankangs NS2R most recently and really like them for the cost. Not the outright grip of the R888 , but not far off and a fair bit cheaper= more money for track days

 

sent you a PM @David , cheers

 

Agreed about the puma brakes,although I do have the bolt straight on fiesta st150 brake set-up.
Even then they are not fantastic..the servo on later cars for some stupid reason was smaller than on earlier cars.
They do stop the car pretty well,but need to much of a middle pedal shove.

Standard brakes bordering on dangerous.

I thought the idea of grooves in the disks was to help heat escape and to stop glazing of the pads?

Many a high performance car has them..although the premium brands will have forged drilled look disks,to avoid(as many a r26 owners will know),cracking if the holes are just drilled in.

 

They still crack eventually, seen it on a friends race car using genuine Porsche disks. Your right they do help stop the pads glazing but that isn't a problem on a race car as long as the driver doesn't ride the brake pedal. A mate of mine did that though, he managed to get really good (2nd in Porsche Club Championship 2012) but had some deep seated habits he found hard to shift, riding the pedal meant frequently having to sand the pads by hand between races when he was starting out around 2009/2010. Pretty sure he was using plain disks and not glazing his pads in the end, like everyone else I knew, its one of those odd things that track dayers seem to have all sorts of problems with brakes and braking yet amongst fellow racers we never really had any issues other than setup induced ones (I kept spinning off one weekend as my front shocks had gone and the rebound on the rear was so high I was lifting the rear tyres off the track, eek. 5 offs in one race at Silverstone.)

 

I always remember a test of stopping distances years back using a variety of grooves/drilled disks.
And actually the disks with the most holes/grooves were worse on stopping distances,simply because making many grooves/holes in a disk cuts down on useable surface area for the pads to bite against..logical I suppose really.

The ones that performed best had 2 simple vertical lines on them..one at the top,one at the bottom.
Nobody bought them though,as they didn't look as`cool` as their competition!

Your views and experiences being a racer are very interesting though...Should dispel a few urban myths!

 

Thanks Andrew I missed your reply at the time. Biggest urban myth from my racing experience is late braking in that the real thing that massively cuts the lap times is carrying speed into and through corners. It sounds obvious but the problem with late hard braking is twofold. 1) You can slow the car down too much, yes really, very guilty of that one myself 2) You have to come up from the brakes to turn into the corner. Point 2 is where it goes wrong as if you are braking really hard the car is unstable and can't be turned in fast like that, note I said fast not quick. Thus you learn eventually it is much faster to brake a little earlier, come up on the pressure to give the car enough time to settle then bleed off the pedal as you turn the wheel rather than trying to do it with an unstable car or one that has slowed down too much. For me the mistake was slowing the car too much, for some reason I kept on doing it for 3 blooming years. I ended up with the datalogger saying I was hitting the same apex speeds and exit speeds as guys much faster but it wasn't until I sat next to a guy driving my own car who had several lap records the penny dropped.