Hello everyone, You may have seen my other thread regarding shuddering brakes. I've decided to just get new discs and pads all round as all the discs look corroded etc. To save a bit of money i may attempt to fit the discs and pads myself. I'm moderately decent with a spanner lol and my dad's an ex mechanic. How easy is it to replace the discs and pads? What tools are needed? Any hints or tips? Thanks in advance
Depending on when the fronts were last apart will dictate how tight the pins will be to remove, you'll prob be best to buy a fitting kit for the fron aswel before you start just incase the pins get bent/damaged. It's fairly easy tbh, 13mm spanner, 13mmsocket and ratchet, caliper wind back tool for the rear. and hammer, small punch, pliers (to pull pads out) piston push back tool, 12mm alen key and a torx bit to remove disc can't remember size. Think that's all......
piece of cake mate, if i can do it, anyone can.Hardest bit is getting the pins out, get a decent punch and try not to chip the callipers, they sometimes need a big clout, i would also pm mr pink for a set of his pins, you'll never have any problems getting them out in future.Have you gone for standard discs/pads? Cazan racing have a nice big brake kit
The pins and possibly the retaining screws on the disks are the bits that can be a pain. Pins just need a punch and a good heavy lump hammer along with some commited strikes, the screws might require a punch to drive them around along with the same hammer. It's not difficult if you have the right gear and time.
Yes the rear bearings are part of the rear discs, come as a complete unit, you will need two new hub nuts and a high range torque wrench to fit new ones.
If you're handy with a spanner, changing discs and pads is probably the most straight foward job there is.
Okay cool thanks for all your help, Is there a guide around for replacing discs and pads? Will be replacing them with the standard cup set up
Rear discs are held on with either a 30mm or a 36mm socket. Torque them to 175nM. Also worth knowing- Rear callipers are held on with an E16 socket (IIRC). And you'll need some lithium grease for the new bearings that come as an integral part of the new rear disks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd like to know the results too as I've got the same problem and was thinking of just replacing my front discs and pads.
Shuddering and vibrations will be down to a slightly warped disk. Thankfully not an expensive fix Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The big 36mm hub nut I torqued up to 280nm iirc. Was a good year a go so can't remember exactly but it definitely wasn't in the hundreds. Don't be like me and forget to leave the wheel centre caps out to torque them up! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Wonder if rear disks will sort out my noise I get I'm getting a wheel bearing type noise, but can't locate it. All spin ok with no play but I get the typical droning noise associated with a failing bearing I'm leaning towards a brearing, but could get expensive chasing it
Most of your braking is undertaken through the front discs / pads / callipers (say about 70% ish).. Hence why they're physically larger than the rears... If I had vibration on braking, fronts would be the first place I'd look. Now when you say a 'warped disk' that means the disk is distorted by a fraction of a mm.. Not much in its own right.. But when the disk is revolving around fast, that deflection is what causes the vibration. You could use a lathe to reprofile if you have the facility. Thankfully they're cheap enough to replace. So... Replace the disks (and pads if needed). MAKE SURE the hub is cleaned before you put on the new disk!! Should sort you out. [emoji1419] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's taken from the Megane II workshop manual, the Megane III workshop manual has the rear hub nut as 220nm https://www.dropbox.com/sh/piuqa61qfgw6m55/AABnw6Mte8uegW1Gr__A3bZ3a?dl=0 MR427MEGANE3.pdf, page 12 and pages 146/147 of the pdf
