Alright guys, been shopping about as my clutch is going to need replacing soon. This may be a dumb question so excuse it if it is but what is the difference between these other than the price? Find it a bit mental that theres such a price difference by what seems to be the same type of clutch. K-Tec Racing clutch http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=4377&appid=12 Renault Parts Direct Clutch http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product/renault-megane-225-clutch/
So basically theres no difference with the item then lol, it's down to being fleeced by the company selling them? Only reason I ask is any genuine Renault clutch I've seen is around the same price as this. Just noticed on the Renault Parts direct that it's nearly half the price. Just wondered why such a difference. As long as theres no difference between the parts I'm happy.
Renault Parts Direct are Fish Brothers Renault in Swindon so your buying genuine Renault parts from a main dealer anyway. I have this year bought clutch, slave cylinder, top mounts and all 4 shocks from them. I just look at their site first now if thinking I may need something.
Cheers mate that's all I need to know. R26 clutch and slave cylinder will be ordered soon. Found a SMF through engine dynamics for £300 as RPD dont seem to so them so everything I need is a lot cheaper than I originally worked it out to be using other means. Just glad I shopped around before ordering the parts.
Gotta phone them up at some point anyway so will get a quote for the parts then, cant imagine theyll be any cheaper though. Had some good deals on certain things with them but not so much on others. Failing that RPD will be the next stop.
Aye from my experience with Renault W I've found them brilliant. Can't knock them to be fair. I'll see what they come back with see what the better option is. Still be looking at the best part of £500 either way so it ain't gonna be cheap.
Was told ideally to replace the DMF when the clutch gets changed. Don't mind the prices being cheap however I want the job done properly so if I have to pay a bit extra to get it all done then that may be the better option.
Nah it's not. I wouldn't fancy changing the clutch & then a few months down the line the DMF fails. Makes sense you replace with a SMF or stick with the DMF while it's stripped down.
May very well be mate, just going on what I'm told. Noticed a lot of people tend to change both at the same time. Plus with the juddering I've got pulling off I don't want to take chances in case its the DMF causing it.
Picked mine up from having smf and clutch fitted, you'll also need a slave master cylinder, some people say you don't need to but if anything else has gone you're paying for it to be stripped down and done again. If you replace it with an smf then that won't need to be changed again if the clutch goes!
The people that change both are the vocal ones on forums which are going for an SMF. Any decent mechanic should be able to measure the movement in a DMF and advise if it is marginal or not. On my old P38 Range Rover for example I had the clutch replaced about 18 months ago, that car has a DMF, one with a rep for failing early but its on 155k miles now and still going strong. When my mechanic measured it he said the movement was bang in the middle of the normal range quoted so he advised not to bother replacing it. Replacing it would have meant another £500. Go ahead and replace parts that aren't worn out or need replacing if you want but frankly its wasting money, a waste which sadly many garages are keen on as "fixing" our cars is what pays their bills. This item in particular is one of those mythical things which people think tends to randomly fail on modern cars as when they started becoming common many cars did have early failing DMFs. Slave cylinder is a must do apparently though. The juddering does sound DMF related but again measure the movement in it and you will know its the cause, don't guess, if its as floppy as a floppy thing its shot for sure and will need replacing.
Slave master cylinder will be changed no matter what. If the juddering is down to the DMF then something will need doing as its a proper pain in the arse. Not sure which is the better option, a SMF or a DMF. Only read advice I've seen on here from other members that have done the same sort of thing. Just read that the DMF's are common to go whereas the SMF are more reliable. What truth there is in that I'm unsure but just want to make sure if I'm spending that sort of money that I'm getting the right items. It'll probably be a R26 clutch either way, a slave cylinder and a flywheel of some sort whether it be SMF or DMF.
That's what I'm thinking. The cars on 96k atm so if I get the clutch done and a month or two down the line the flywheel goes then its a lot of money going back out again on labour. At least if its changed it'll never need to be done by me again.
I changed both not because I was advised to by the garage, but because the smf is a better performing part, and because everyone else recommends to do it whilst you're there. I could have left it and chanced it but for peace of mind I changed it, and the judder has gone away, so either way it's improved the car. It was fitted by a good friend of mine so I know it wasn't done for the sake of getting a few quid more! We sat and did lots of reading on what the best options were for the car and then bought and fitted them! Everyone has an opinion though and that's fine, it's just what you can afford and how much it bothers you at the end of the day!
If it means the judder goes completely then I'll be a worthy change, more money to spend but better in the long run so I agree. All have different ways of doing things but aporiciate the replies nonetheless.
For reference my clutch is being replaced this week because it has started slipping badly once the car is hot and its been booted a few times, 4th gear coming onto a dual carriageway for example seemed to do it the worst. I have no judder though of any kind at any time, car is as smooth to drive as its ever been just ends up sounding like an old fashioned automatic sometimes.
Not to be argumentative but the only people saying an SMF is better is those who have fitted them or like them, the car comes with a dual mass flywheel for a reason. Also as I posted before the clutch is not spring centred so with an SMF there is nothing to dampen the system as the clutch engages. Like it or not these factors will put more stress (jerk they like to call it, acceleration of the acceleration) into everything connected to the clutch. In previous cars such as the Porsche 968 changing to a SMF noticeably created transmission noise like gravel in a mixer that isn't there with the DMF as the DMF dampens all that out. My mechanic Paul at Tech-1 fitted many SMF when he was at K-Tec and was involved in getting that TTV SMF they sell, his advice which to me from previous car experience sounds perfectly sensible is to only fit them to out and out track/race cars. There is also some tiny difference in either the ring gear or the way it passes the sensor due to being SMF which can cause the light on the dash to come on so if that happens its more work to that have that mapped out. As a previous poster has said if one wanted piece of mind, a stronger setup and do the whole job I would agree that the thing to do is pay out for a new R26.R DMF and its 20% stronger clutch kit.
Mine did this but turned out the clutch was fine. The dmf was the problem. At £100 ish I did the clutch anyway. Well, a friend did.
So you would recommend sticking with a DMF and not going with a SMF. Only reason I ask is because I don't know a great deal on them. Only from what I've read on here as a lot of people have opted for a SMF instead of the standard DMF. Just trying to get as much useful info as I can before I make the plunge and part with the cash. Won't be used for track days that for sure but I do intend to do a few things to it.
The SMF is a good choice for serious power/torque or a more dedicated track car but it has also become a fashionable choice. You have to also weigh up the disadvantages with them and that seems to be something not frequently discussed. It's not even a full race spec clutch. Is it actually going to make your car faster or more reliable, or is it just another mod you can boast about?
I bought my Meggy (Phase 2) with the TTV SMF already recently fitted, along with a new standard clutch. It throws up the "check emissions" warning every week. It bugs me, more than I thought it would. I asked Henk (RSTuner) about 'mapping' it out, but he said there's no such thing - it's possible to disable the warning completely, but then you would never know if the actual error state ever occurs. I've got some mods planned, and am seriously considering having the shop install a standard DMF if the opportunity arises.
All Im after is something that will last and cause no issues, basically be reliable. As I said I'm looking at few things over the coming months so want something that will handle the extra power. I was thinking about the R26.R clutch with a SMF but as you say the pros and cons need to be weighed up. The standard clutch on the megane has lasted 96k so they can't be that bad as has the DMF unless they've been done by a previous owner and it hasn't been recorded.
If the car is suffering from clutch slip how can that be the fault of the flywheel and not the clutch cover or the friction plate? This unfortunately is not unusual, my P38 Range Rover did slip a little sometimes before it was replaced after the fork broke, a mechanic mate who is a lifelong LR obsessive tells me the clutch material itself hardly ever wears out its the diaphragm springs in the cover that go weak allowing the clutch to slip. Found a pretty detailed guide to clutch technology here: http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/LuK Clutch Course.pdf
I'm lucky atm as the clutch isn't slipping but the flywheel causing all the juddering is a pan in the arse. Got a good deal on a R26.R clutch so a case of whether to go with the SMF or the DMF for it. DMF is more expensive and the SMF apparently brings up EM light, but the SMF is meant to be more reliable so decisions, decisions.
Personally if I had gone down that route I would have the R26.R DMF. Who can say if a DMF will last or not, seems to be a bit hit and miss to me and given how many cars these days have them there are plenty on high miles on one DMF (my 1998 Range Rover for example, 156k miles now), as well as a few that failed at much lower miles. Flipping it round the other way does anyone know how much more likely a SMF is to cause wear or damage to the gearbox gear set, synchros and bearings or the components inside the engine. I don't know anyone who worked on the design and test of the engine originally to ask.
That's the problem. The car was designed with a DMF for a reason. It may very well be troublesome but given the age of the car (05 plate and 96k on the clock) what strain will a SMF put on the gearbox etc. Plus I can do without warning lights popping up every now and again. There probably wouldn't be much difference in terms of power output so a DMF may very well be the more sensible option. Either way the mileage I do I don't intend on ever changing either again so it'll be a one time job. Main reason I've gone for the R26.R clutch is obviously the price otherwise I'd look at the r26 clutch. Was looking on the engine dynamics website and there isn't much difference in the flywheels for either, although I couldnt see a DMF only the Billet SMF's. I can put up with the juddering for a bit longer (it's lasted long enough). Gives me time to get the funds together to be able to sort it all out.
Nd0 gearboxes are pretty sturdy to be honest but I see where you're coming from. I read about the extra vibrations with an smf but can't say I notice them personally, only difference is a more immediate engagement which takes a few pull aways to get used to and a more freely revving engine! But if it's just a daily or occasional use car and smoother driving is a higher priority, then go for the DMF of there isn't a price difference! Either way at 96k you're probably not going to be changing it again so you've got nothing to loose!
Just to point out. A waranty on any clutch isnt existent if the dmf isnt replaced. I think personaly ot is a stupid thing as the dmf can be inspected but what a hell.. Those are the rules (also you cannot mig a pressure plate from one brand and dmf from another) And also the r26.r has stiffer springs in the dmf so is worth upgrading.
