Best Swivel Bearings to get

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by L-1011, Jan 8, 2016.

  1. I'm going back to change both my lower swivel bearings.

    I know Aaran autos do them and Mark Black.

    You can also get them from Turborenault.

    Anybody any experience of buying these as a part from the above?

    Any experiences or advice?

    Variations in quality? Seems to be a variation in price. I'd like the best I can get without paying through the nose.

    Cheers
     
  2. Bought my two from Aarons Autos - they were slightly different design to the ones that came out of the hub but no probs so far.

    Also pretty sure someone posted a link to amazon for the OEM part number here on the forum.
     
  3. Thanks for that!

    Anyone use TurboRenault ones? £25 cheaper per bearing.....
     
  4. Mark Black did mine, can't remember what I paid though
     
  5. The part number listed is just the bearing spec, Renault don't supply the bearing as far as I know just the whole hub assembly.

    I bought mine from a local bearing supplier, 22 quid skf iirc.
     
  6. I got turborenault ones they seemed to have play in them ask mike265cup as he fitted them steering wandered on the road
     
  7. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    Think I'm due this being done too, it seems to want to constantly pull left, it's got worse over time.
     
  8. I would spend the extra cash and get Renault ones tbh
     
  9. Renault ones? As in the whole assembly? That seems excessive when the bearing itself can be replaced.

    I just don't want to fit a soft chocolate, poorly toleranced bearing that will crumble after 50 miles.
     
  10. Gavin.

    Gavin. RSM Admin

    Yeah Renault only sell the whole hub assemble, not just the bearings, £££££
     
  11. Did you buy just the outer caged bearing, the cup with the needle rollers in? Or did you buy the insert too?

    I've not actually seen one stripped down just pictures of worn out caged needle bearings.

    I'm not sure of the individual parts that make the bearing assembly on the lower swivel point in the Megane. As I understand it an insert exists which is threaded to take the bolt. The insert sits in the bearing cup and rotates on the needle bearings.

    Now does this threaded insert fit straight against the bearings or is there an intermediate part (race) between the two as below?

    Because the bearing part numbers I've been quoted include what seems to be an intermediate bearing race (INA IR404520).
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1452383466.571934.jpg

    Either way if the bearings are worn then it makes sense that the insert or race could be worn to and even after new bearings play could still exist unless this is replaced?

    This I need:
    - the actual closed cup caged needle bearing INA 4520
    - the inner race INA IR40452
    - O-ring seal 52mm/4mm
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  12. This is what I bought

    DAE7C752-7143-4BC4-9AD4-963C34B70EAB_zps7vzt2sio.jpg

    You shouldn't need the insert and the seal can be carefully removed and cleaned up.

    Every set I've done I've only replaced the bearing itself.
     
  13. Thanks mate!
     
  14. No worries mate, you only need very basic tools too. I gave my insert a nice clean with some emery clothe just to clean of any surface pitting
     
  15. Yeah definitely!

    I tried to PM you but your inbox is full. I agree with what you said though
     
  16. I've just emptied out lol
     
  17. I got INA Schaefler ones for £22.xx delivered each in the end!
     
  18. As if by magic....

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1452621662.617504.jpg

    Super quick for £1.50 delivery!
     
  19. Have you got a link to them mate?

    Mine need doing too.

    Cheers
     
  20. Si.

    Si.

    Will be doing mine next month all going to plan.. I have a spare set of hubs that i picked up so will get these up to scratch and then swapped over.

    Just a quick one, the hubs i received are still in the "carrier". To remove im guessing its just the top and bottom bolts to remove and the actual hub will come away? Any tips on removing these as i cant get the bloody things to move!?
     
  21. Noticed the closed end of the bearing has a raised part in the centre. Just investigating whether this will cause a problem with the insert fully engaging the needles all the way to the bottom or if the added height of the insert causes any problems....
     
  22. @manifold were yours like mine?
     
  23. Sorry no internet for the last week.

    Yea same as mine
     
  24. will be hopefully doing mine this week
    is the bearing size on the top different or not??
    couldn't tell if you were replacing both on 1 hub or just both bottoms??
     
  25. ianplymouth

    ianplymouth RSM Club Member

    those bearings are for the bottom, the top ones are proper roller bearings, i have a very good bearing supplier near me and he can't get the proper top ones, had to have a complete new hub as i damaged mine removing the top bearing, i don't think anyone has replaced the top ones due to them wearing out
     
  26. For people with 'spares' - anyone got the inner turret (that goes inside this lower bearing) I can buy off you?
    cheers
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 25, 2016
  27. Yeah seconded.

    I wrote the detailed one about bearing/upright disassembly/reassembly
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 25, 2016
  28. Top bearings:

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454498789.048532.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454498803.351756.jpg
     
  29. Daz

    Daz

    Just to throw a question to an old thread how long are your bearings lasting? I feel like mines starting to pull to the left again and they're only 3 years old?!
     
  30. Did you fit INA ones like I sourced with new dust seals?

    What was the condition of the turret like before you refitted?
     
  31. Daz

    Daz

    Pass, Mark Black did them.
     
  32. Won't last forever. I've read originals have been changed at 45k. Mine were at 132k.

    If however your turret is damaged (they all will be to a certain extent), this could mean slight play when reassembled with a new bearing. Over time that play will be worked on and the bearing will fail again.

    We all replace the bearing because you can buy these off the shelf as fitted to other applications but no one replaces the turret unless they are buying a complete new hub.

    Really both should be replaced when the job is done and would be if the turrets were available. Only way this could be done is if you had a new one machined up or a liner machined up with an interference fit on it.

    Here's mine:

    fe87d961905ddb9fc8a9b57f10f93c6f.jpg
    Before


    6124cfcaf67a85d4d7edb6e231be26dc.jpg
    After
     
  33. Daz

    Daz

    After more investigation I'm 99% sure now it's the my front tyres.

    It's self centering fine, well as much as any car will center itself.
     
  34. Yeah I changed one on Steve1's R26r, that Mark had fitted due to play in it!

    Hadn't done massive mileage as its a toy for Steve and probably not even 2 years old!

    There not INA bearings that's for sure, in fact there not even branded!

    The INA ones and the SKF ones I get are of much higher standard and seem much better quality but there are a little more pricey
     
  35. Agree all round!
    Think I paid £17 for INA.
    I'd say they are better than original because the INA ones are fully caged where as the other makes (possibly not SKF) have their needles held in place by the top and lower lip of the shell alone and don't have a cage! Cheap Chinese stuff I'm afraid!
     
  36. Yeah I can get them a tad cheaper but not by much unless I buy a load off him.

    You have to be careful tbh as there is some really cheap and nasty bearings out there, I've seen some of this for under 4 quid put it that way lol

    The skf ones are caged too, you can tell the difference in the quality of the cheap unbranded nasty items as the higher end ones are also much more robust
     
  37. My logic is if I'm going to the trouble to strip and rebuild something I'll fit the best parts available or what I can afford. The car is the some of its parts at the end of the day.

    Cheap stuff is just there for folk to sell out of garages when they do the work. Get a little extra profit on the parts and make the overall cost more attractive to the customer at the expense of longevity. Good garages will always offer you a choice if the job allows it.

    Good example of this was my mates S4. He took it somewhere instead of to me for discs and pads all round and tyres. After he gave me grief about the parts prices I'd quoted him. About three months later he was complaining of warped front discs and rubbish handling, non existent in the wet. He learnt his lesson the hard way.
     
  38. Daz

    Daz

    I've no problem in getting them changed again after a fresh set of tyres If it still feels a little wierd...

    Where are you chaps out of curiosity?
     
  39. I'm from Swadlincote in the Midlands mate, yeah go for some tyres etc see how you get on. I had play in my bottom balljoint that I've just changed out! That made the car feel terrible
     

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