Forged Megane 225 engine for a clio 197

Thanks mate appreciate it. There is always a time to start

 

UPDATE:

Little update today, got a lot done on the whole engine removal. Took the bumper,crash bar and lights off first, easy job, only takes 10 minutes. The next bit was a bit trickier, I had to drain the coolant and remove the radiator, as it always goes the coolant went everywhere and soaked the garage floor. i plan on installing a thicker radiator or another one in parallel to try and solve this cooling problem that plagues these conversions. With that out the way the inlet manifold was unbolted and the airbox was removed, just requires a short sharp pull and you should be able to remove it, the battery tray was then unbolted. This is as far as ive gotten today.

Tomorrow I plan on removing the drive shafts and suspension struts, I can tell its going to be an arse of a job.
















Thanks

 

UPDATE:

After a few days hard graft practically doing all the work on my own, the engine is out! Wasn't too tricky, the hardest part was removing the drive shafts. For that I undone all the droplinks, took the calliper off and the brake line mounting bracket, undone the lower balljoint, track rod arms undone. Now I unclipped the ABS sensor from under the wheel arch liner, the 3 top mount bolts were then removed. The whole suspension strut and hub now can be lowered, I then pryed the drive shafts out of the gearbox with a crowbar from underneath. The hubs will now be stripped and cleaned and also a snapped suspension spring will be replaced with lowering springs. Two drop links will need to be ordered as the bolts had seized solid so had to be cut off, also Ive noticed the inner drive shaft gaitor has split so will need to be replaced or if I cat find a proper gaitor Ill get a new drive shaft.

Anyway once the driveshafts were removed it was really straight forward, just disconnect the loom, gearbox linkage, clutch line, exhaust manifold and engine mounts and she could be hoisted out of the bay.

Ill now clean up the engine bay and adress some rust thats appearing on the front chassis rails and then Ill get the new engine bolted in.






















And the standard "Hey look no engine"




Thanks

 

UPDATE:

With the engine out it became apparent that the subframes and front chassis member needed some attention. They were disgustingly dirty with caked on grease and dust, they had to have some attention. I also noticed that on the front chassis member there was rust starting to appear probably due to to water sitting there between the member and sump guard. Anyway I needed to take the subframe off anyway in order to replace my steering rack so in the end I removed the entire subframe and chassis member and will in turn shot blast them and paint them, I may also take this opportunity to replace all the bushes with powerflex ones.

As most of the engine bay hadn't been touched since it left the factory in 2007, the engine bay was filthy and I couldnt let it stay like this especially when so much attention has been spent on the engine. Therefore today I set about giving it a thorough clean. Starting with auto glym engine degreaser and a detailing brush I aggitated all the dirt, this was then jet washed off being extra careful around the wiring loom. It was then shampooed with my wash mitt and then washed again, followed by paint correction on the parts you will see and then a final wax using collinite 476s. Looks sparkly now and is in fact the cleanest part of the car at the moment

Some pictures of half a clio





















Thanks

 

UPDATE:

With the engine out focus has been drawn to the subframe. On Monday I shot blasted the wish bones and then painted them in black hammerite to keep them looking nice for a bit longer. Tuesday I took the subframe to work and shot blasted that, took a while to get into all the areas, Ill paint that this weekend and then hopefully get it bolted back onto the chassis, from then I can test fit the engine.

Ever since the conversions had started as shown by litchy and choppen it seems cooling is an issue, therefore I decided to delete to AC in my build after having chats with Choppen, I could have gotten the standard renault cup delete AC bracket but that isnt me Ive got to have something shiny therefore I opted for Pure motorsport's new delete bracket, beautiful bit of kit, billet machined bracket which will finish off my engine a treat

From day one of ownership of my car it has had the dreaded clunking of the steering rack, Ive replaced inner and outer track rod ends as well as tightening the U joint bolt, but to no avail, new rack was on the cards then. I ordered a newer and quicker 200 steering rack, should make handling a bit better. I also picked up some new drop link bars and a new abs sensor.

It will look brand new by when I'm finished



















Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Small update today, first off I got my Loom back from SC autos, great service with Steve, posted it Tuesday and got it back today. Also got my ECU coded at the same time so it should now be essentially plug and play

Also started painting the subframe with hammerite, coming up lovely, a few air bubbles but these eventually burst when the paint dries. Hopefully get all the subframe completed this weekend








Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Another weekend of long days on the clio. First was I finished my subframe, it was given 3 coats of hammerite smooth black, turned out pretty good considering it was brushed on. On saturday I assembled all the subframe, wishbones, ARB and new steering rack. It looked better than when it came out the factory. Today I bolted the subframe in position and connected the U joint to the steering rack, this was a right pain in the arse job getting everything lined up while curled up by the pedals, must have been at it for at least an hour. Once that was sorted the subframe bolts could be torqued up and the wishbones could be properly torqued on the to spec. I have to say I am really chuffed with how it turned out and the steering rack knocking issues are now sorted

Later on today I stripped down the hubs and struts ready for reassembling and painting, this is where the problems started. First off Renault seem to be obsessed with torx bolts, there great when they are new but after 8 years of grime and corrosion half of them just stripped as soon as I turned them, so had to be drilled out. The second bit of bad news that there is play in the swivel joints and upper ball joint so Ill have to replace them to save a job later down the line, @raptor I may need you for this






















Next week Ill start getting the hub swivels stripped and Ill finally get the engine ready for mounting in the engine bay.

 

UPDATE:

Earlier this week I set about stripping the hub carrier with the aid of an oxi-acetaline torch and a press. The low ball joint was pressed out which was relatively easy actually, hopefully pressing the new one in is just as easy. The pinch bolt that holds strut tower in was siezed in so required some heat, a few minutes of heating and the bolt knocked out pretty easy. The hub assembly was then completely shot blasted, being sure to mask off critical areas. Ive now only managed to get the hub carrier painted, looks miles better than it did before and the paint should provide some corrosion resistance.

As I will be pushing over 300hp Ill need to have a high flow fuel system like mentioned in previous posts. Well today i set about running the lines, Ill be using AN6 teflon braided lines throughout my build. Luckily the clio has a spare slot for another line under the care, so this made is pretty straight forward. The hardest part was trying the wiggle the fuel line up the side of the fuel tank and through the fuel sender access hole that I have made bigger. The lines were run above the subframe along the heatshield into the engine bay, Ive then run them under the brake line junction box and along by the battery tray. Ive used aluminium clamps throughout and will sleeve the lines in heat shield material just in case.

Ive also this week bought some zircoflex heat shield material which Ill be installing once all the engine bay is finished. Some V-band clamps have also arrived which will allow me to attach the megane centre section to my cat back system and make it pretty much the same as the clio's stock system.
























Also fitted my AC delete bracket










Thanks

 

Thanks mate, wont be much longer now I hope

 

Thanks mate, dont worry I wont, I love this car, I think most people sell it after as theyve got a garage to do the work so end up having to much money tied up in it and then have no connection with the car and get bored.

 

UPDATE:

Not a huge amount of work this week, just the bits that Ive been putting off

First of was the passenger side drive shaft. When I was stripping the engine out I slipped with the crow bar while levering out the driveshafts and split the inner rubber boot. I then searched for a genuine gaitor and could only find the outer ones and a new one from renault was £65, screw that for a bit of rubber. Anyway I decided to buy these universal boots that stretch a lot more so you can slide them over the CV joint easily. Well it all went very well, and hopefully Ive just saved myself a bit of money. If it fails then Ill replace the shaft, wont be very hard as everything shouldn't be seized that time round as I use copper slip on everything!

In order for the megane engine to fit you have to use the Clio's cam cover and associated engine mounts, but i couldnt leave these in the state they were in considering there at the top of the engine. I took them to work and shot blast them so they were to base metal. I then etch primed them making sure to mask of all the rubber bushes, after 2 hours I followed my usual procedure of hitting it with 3 coats of colour coat and then 2 coats of lacquer as I dont want it super glossy looking. Ive done the Cam cover and upper arm link in the same black as my clio and then the other engine mount and plate in the gun metal colour that the rest of the engine is painted in. It looks OEM but with a different look.

The scuttle panel area is always a settling point for dirt and grime and mine was disgusting, 8 years of rotting leaves and dirt however I didnt want to use the jet washer as it will drench out the garage and already cleaned engine bay that has exposed wiring. I opted for a £20 steam washer from argos and it worked a treat! I agitated it first with a detailing brush and Auto glym quick detailer and left it to dwell for 5 minutes. I then went in with the steam cleaner and it got most of the ingressed dirt out, I repeated this process until I was happy, now its all sparkly and ready for the fresh engine to go in

While I was cleaning out the scuttle panel i removed all the trim from around that area. One thing that has always bugged me with the engine bay is the heat resistant material sagging around the scuttle panel. While this trim piece was out I might as well rectify it. I used some EVO stick spray glue and drenched behind the heat resistant material with it. Then using some G clamps and some bits of wood I clamped it down and left it for an hour, now it doesn't sag. I didnt stop there though, as the turbo will be sitting right below this trim I decided to give it a bit more heat protection. By using the zircoflex heat shield material I cut out a strip and stuck it down onto the trim piece and cut off the excess with a sharp knife. Ill get some rubber edging from work to neaten it up a bit this week.

The link pipe was then wrapped with the same DEI titanium wrap the downpipe is wrapped with, a V band clamp was also tacked onto the end.

This week I hope to re-route the brake booster vacuum line as to the meganes brake servo is the other side to the clio's it has to be made longer. I also fit the heat shielding to the engine bay and make final prep for the engine to go in. I also still need to time up the engine


BEFORE:




AFTER:











Other pictures:





































Thanks

 

UPDATE:

This week not a lot has been done mostly because of waiting for the last bits to arrive and being so busy with uni work and working 10 hour days all week. Anyway this weekend I managed to time up the engine finally! I rented some genuine Renault timing tools and began timing it yesterday, I first found TDC on piston 1, I installed the crank pin into the designated slot, I then checked this with a DTI gauge to increase precision and reduce the chances of power being lost through the timing being out. The cam locking tool was then installed to allign the slots in the end of the cam shafts. The belt was then installed and the Cam pulleys locked into position and the pulley nuts torqued to 30 N/m, the tensioner was rotated clockwise with an allen key until the marks lined up, the tensioner was then torqued to 8 N/m. All the locking tools were then removed and the engine turned over for 2 revolutions, the tools were then installed again to check everything still lined up. The blanking rubber seals were then installed.

This week Ill hopefully get the vacuum lines re-routed and I should finish a custom braided fuel vapour venting line to use up the line of the fuel line that I brought. The heat-shielding can then go on.

The plan is to get the engine in by next weekend, then I can concentrate on the suspension again and then get it finished.














Thanks

 

UPDATE:

This week was a big week with the with the project/conversion, the engine is finally in!!

Anyway, on Friday I picked up all my bolts from zinc plating like Ive done with all the engine and gearbox bolts, makes a big difference in the appearance of the engine bay. I also set about that evening re-routing my brake booster line and vapour line. I'm routing the brake booster line around the engine bay using the old AC pipe brackets/clamps to keep it neat and tidy. The vapour line ive made out of some spare braided line and fittings to make it look more in keeping with the engine bay (Im a sucker for for braided lines )

Saturday I installed some heat shielding to protect the fuel lines and bulkhead from the increased heat of the turbo, it looks however Ill need some more to protect the re-routed brake booster hose. It looks okay, a bit messy in places but im useless with stuff like that, you should see my present wrapping skills

With that sorted attention went to getting the engine ready, all there was left to do was put on a new aux belt and fit the flywheel/clutch and gearbox. Aux belt was easy to do, 5min job with the right tools. However the clutch was a bit trickier, first thing was the fact there was no clutch aligning tool supplied with the clutch, I had to make an aluminium one out of a bit of scrap bar. With that sorted the flywheel was fitted and torqued to 30Nm + 60 degree's, the clutch was then bolted on using the aligning tool. The clutch plate was torqued down to 30Nm and blue loctite was used. Now the tricky bit, especially when there was only me. The starter motor was bolted to the gearbox and then the box was offered up to the engine, jesus gearboxes are heavy all bolted up and the engine was ready to go in. Anti seize was used on all the bolts. The loom was also now connected.

Now the even trickier bit, with the hoist I carefully positioned the engine and gearbox in the bay, the exhaust link section was then put through the exhaust tunnel and then bolted to the downpipe flange. After this the engine was wiggled into position and the engine mounts tightened up. The gearbox mount plate will need to be removed in the week to be painted as i forgot to last week and today it was too late to do so.

Anyway the pictures:













































Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Sorry for not posting last Sunday, I have been really busy, I have however mad some time in a few evenings and this weekend to put time aside to concentrate on the car.

First thing that needed to be sorted was the wiring and to plug all the sensors, coilpacks, injectors etc in, thanks to Steve at SC autos who made me a custom loom, everything lines up and makes it very easy to plug everything in correctly. There were however a few alterations to be made, first off was the fact i was using the newer style lambda sensors used on the clio 197 but not on the early megane 225's which is what my engine is from, this means the plugs were different. To solve this issue I bought some Tyco 4 pin plugs and rewired the lambda sensor and loom to match, hopefully Ive got it right and they work another change was the fact that the clio 197 vacuum line sensor is located on the left of the engine bay and most conversions keep it in this position. I on the other hand have located it where the megane has its sensor to save making more custom vacuum lines, because of this I had to extend the loom to compensate, I have run the extension under the inlet manifold along with the brake booster vacuum line that Ive made to further compensate for the brake servo being on the opposite side to the meganes.

With the loom 90% installed I turned my attention to running the coolant pipes, the pipes were cleaned thoroughly and flushed out. One thing that needed doing here was modifying the heat matrix inlet as it is larger on a meganes. This was done by slipping a section of silicon hose over the barb fitting/inlet, then i could fit the meganes coolant pipe over the top and clamp it down, it shouldn't leak, if it does Ill have to think of another solution. Another problem that i ran into was because im using the clio gearbox when you secure down the secondary coolant pump it hits on the gear linkage and you cant get it into 2nd, 4th and 6th, I have therefore secured it in a higher position to clear the linkage, most people dont have this problem as they use the megane box. The battery tray could now be installed and luckily it hides most of the wiring and coolant pipes, it all looks rather neat

Today Ive cleaned out the radiator ready for some modification to aid cooling. The shocks were also stripped ready for servicing and to replace the springs with H and R ones. Top mounts look okay but I may replace them later in the year with some more suspension upgrades.

Its looking now more like a car again by next weekend i hope to have the engine side of things pretty much completed, i can then concentrate on the suspension again and get it completed.

Jobs to do:

- install air intake
- finish fuel system
- finish suspension and driveshafts
- get front end resprayed (summer job)
- finish coolant system
- route the intercooler piping and secure intercooler


Photos:






































Thanks

 

Thanks guys

 

UPDATE:

An early update this weekend mainly because there have been issues. Today i tried to test the starter motor and that the immobilizer had been decoded okay. Bad news the engine was solid and wouldnt turn over by hand whatsoever. Looked at a few things like the starter motor, cambelt etc, couldnt find anything wrong. A quick phone call to SteC and he told me that the fly wheel bolts may be too long and fouling on the crank case. This meant the engine had to come back out to get the gearbox off, in 30 mins it was out, fly wheel off and the bolts inspected. My mistake is the fact I ordered megane fly wheel bolts which are 2mm longer than the clio's bolts. This evening I turned down the bolts by 2.3mm so hopefully should get the engine in tomorrow and cranking over to check oil pressure etc.

I have also this week completely assembled one of my hubs with new swivel bearings and zinc plated bolts. I simply pressed them in at work. next week Ill strip and refurbish the other sides hubs.

I will update again tomorrow, with hopefully better news.

















Thanks

 

UPDATE:

As promised I have an update about the current situation. I bolted up the flywheel again with the modified bolts and turned the engine over by hand and success it turns over once again i was listening out for any grinding and could hear or feel any. Bolted up the clutch like before and installed the gearbox, a lot easier this time as my dad was on hand to help. Within an hour the engine was bolted back in the car and started connecting up the loom, clutch line, coolant hoses, gear linkages and exhaust and also bled the clutch with new ATE fluid, I was now at the point I was yesterday and ready to give the engine a crank, but wait another problem, the dash wasn't lighting up but the interior lights were and the ignition wasnt coming on, 20 mins with the multimeter and still no ideas on what it could be. I then checked the postive terminal plug and it appears there is a fuse inside this, it separates the interior/aux electrics and the engine electrics. My guess is the motor drew too much current when it wasn't able to turn the engine over yesterday and this was enough to blow the fuse, doh! Anyway a new one is on order, I linked out this fuse just to test the starter motor and immobilizer, and it all turns over lovely.

Ive now given the front sub-frame a quick coat of hammerite to cure a bit of rust and then bolted that in. The radiator was then bolted up and hosed up, this will probably be changed out with a megane rad later in the year when I have more time. Intercooler was now quickly mocked up and secured with zip ties so I can figure out some brackets to hold it securely. She starting to look a bit menacing now

Pictures as usual:













Thanks

 

Me too, been without a car for 4 months lol

 

UPDATE:

Today I took a last minute day off to get bits finished off on the clio, getting very close now to starting her up. First on the list today was to assemble the shocks with some H and R springs, the shocks were painted gloss black and the rubber boots and top mounts were given a through clean, the springs were then installed using some springs compressors. Id imagine these will be swapped out next year for some BC coilovers but funds dont allow that at this moment in time

I have also started to finish off my fuel system today, Ive plumbed in the feed line and figured out how Im going to mount my fuel pressure reg. A new bracket will need to be made for the pressure reg. The return line will also be plumbed in when Ive got the car up at running before mapping. i wont need to the HP fuel pump on stock map and on running the engine in so no reason it to complicate it at this point, it will be one less thing to bed in and setup considering I have a new clutch, flywheel, engine internals, rebuilt gearbox and other bits.

Drive shafts were also given the OCD treatment and wire brushed followed by a coat of smooth black hammerite.

Tomorrow I should get the driver side suspension sorted like hubs, struts, driveshafts etc. Im then going to sort out positioning the coolant resouvior as I have a feeling another bracket will have to be made up. Ill update again sunday.

















Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Haven't done much today due to mothers day. I did however manage to fit the drivers side suspension and driveshaft. The drive shaft went in easily and the retaining plate on the bracket was tightened up. Next I had to locate the top mounts and at the same time slide the drive shaft into the hub assembly, what a pain in the arse on your own cramped up against the garage wall. Anyway then the topmount was tightened up and the wishbone ball joint was located into the hub. The hub nut was now installed and tightened to spec. Loctite was used on all the bolts in the hub assembly. The drop link and anti-rotation arm was then bolted in making sure the threads were clean. I dont think the suspension has ever looked this clean should handle like a new car considering it has new lower ball joint, swivel joint, droplink bars, steering rack and springs.

yesterday I also finalised my intercooler position, Ive marked with a black pen where it meets the crash bar, Ill then weld it in place this week at work. Then I can properly install the rest of the front end. All that's left to do on the engine is fit the coolant reservoir and the air filter. Im going to go with a 182 coolant reservoir and mount it by the engine mounts to free up some room by the air filter.

This week Ill finish the other hub and hopefully fit that next weekend, mount intercooler, top up the gearbox oil and hopefully get her started up and maybe out of the garage for the first time in 2 months. Once out I can remove the front wings and get them resprayed as well as the front bumper and bonnet.













Shes looking mean now


Thanks as always

 

UPDATE:

Every day i spend on this car the closer I get to that first drive

Today I have installed the passenger side hub and driveshaft, gave the driveshaft a good coat of hammerite again. This side has also had all the bearings replaced. The drop links though are the originals as they are in good condition. They are again painted in athracite to match the engine. I can now fill the gearbox with oil, Ill do this tomorrow and Im going to use Fuchs syntrax.

Most conversions I have seen use the 197 coolant tank and mount it behind the battery, I didnt like this as the air filter is completely blocked from the cold air. i have therefore purchased a 182 tank and Im going to mount it on the far left of the engine bay by the engine mounts. The tank needed a bit of filing to get it to fit but it now fits perfectly, Ill make up some brackets in the week to mount it more securely.

The mounting bracket that was supplied with the fuel pressure reg wasnt long enough to fit in my ideal position on the rocker cover, I therefore in the week constructed a bracket out of some aluminium. I have then polished it up to a miror, the pressure reg now sits nicely and almost looks like its meant to be there Ill plumb this up before mapping when I install my bosch 044 pump.

Tomorrow I hope to start the engine for the first time Ive got to install the callipers and bleed them, fill the gearbox with oil, finish the coolant system and fill with coolant, prime the engine with oil, install the brake discs, put the wheels back on and then I should be able to start it and get it out of the garage ready for installing the rear springs and finalising the exhaust system.

































Thanks

 

UPDATE:

Another big milestone has been reached in this project, the engine is running! Oh it sounds so nice, much more meaty sound out of the 197.

Anyway, today started off with prepping the car for engine start. First on the list was to first re-connect the callipers and bleed them. They really finish of the hub assembly they were bled with ATE racing fluid, followed by a thorough washing with soapy water to remove any brake fluid residue. The ABS sensors were connected back up and the brake line bracket secured to the hub (This will be painted this week).

Next job was to temporarily attach the header tank as I havent got enough tube to locate it in its final position. I poured neat antifreeze in and then diluted with water, there is still alot of air in the system but Ill bleed that out next weekend when the car is out of the garage and can be idled for a long period of time without intoxicating me.

Now came the moment of truth. The fuel pump sender plug was removed and the engine was cranked over for 1 minute to prime the engine with oil. The oil level was now checked and topped up accordingly. Now was time to connect up the plug and go for a live start. 10 seconds of craning and it started to splutter into life, but then I had to stop due to a leaking fuel fitting, that was tightened up and i gave it another go. First go and it fired up sounds really purposeful but that may be because the downpipe is not connected to the cat back connected so it is bloody loud!

Anyway Ill let the pictures and videos do the talking. Plan is to be driving it next weekend and start running it in.









Video 1:

http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/st...tml?sort=3&o=8


Video 2:

http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/st...tml?sort=3&o=7



Thanks guys

 

UPDATE:

A little update today as its a big day tomorrow. Today I took the day off work again to get stuff done. First job on the list was to clamp all the boost pipes up and check it all links up correctly, the only problem is the fact forge havent delivered my link pipe that sits where the blow off valve normally sits, i had to use a bit of hose from work for the time being, doesnt look great but does the job. Now was time to relocate the coolant header tank, Ive used a part of the oem clio coolant pipe and it fits perfectly around the boost pipe, Ive just temporarily zip tied the tank in place until i make up a bracket. The suspension was also finished, originally i was going to use original drop links as they were in good condition, but I had a change of heart and wanted everything like new so bought some from renault parts direct, they took minutes to fit. the tracking was also eye balled so it wasnt a mile out on its first drive.

The plan is to take its first drive tomorrow evening when there isnt as much traffic, hopefully it goes well, ill update again tomorrow or sunday.












​

 

UPDATE:

Well i said I would update, but but its not the update i wanted. Unfortunately I didnt get to drive it this weekend we had a few issues. Well it started with finishing up the suspension, putting arch liners back in and giving all the underside another coat of paint (Its had 5 now ) topped up all the fluids, we were set to go for a run in of the engine and to bleedthe coolant. Pressed the start button and on the dash it showed "check injection" and "check esp", I ran the codes and no codes came up as they normally have to be logged 3 times to give a code. Started out by checking resistance of injectors, all okay. Then switched out coil packs and unplugged them one by one to check for misfiring, all appeared okay. People were saying to check the boost solenoid, took this out and checked on a battery, it should click when 12V is fed to it, nothing, it was dead and Im pretty sure thats what is causing the issue. I have got a new one on order but i wont get it til wednesday I doubt.

Oh well these things happen I guess when tuning, today i put the wheels back on and installed the cross brace on the subframe. The car was dropped down onto all 4 wheels and i checked that the car would actually move under its own steam in limp mode to check that the clutch and gearbox was operating as it should, it was okay.

In the week Ill hopefully install the new solenoid and the rear springs ready for another go at driving it.













Thanks

 

UPDATE:

I havent updated in a while mainly due to not much progress being made. Ive been spending every weekend endlessly trying to check sensors, wiring, fuses, relays, throttle bodies and much more bits all to no avail. The cars throttle is not responding at all, hence it will only rev to 2.5K but this is due to fueling and its running extremely rich on 1 2 and 3, number 4 is okay as its taking all the air as its closest to the throttle body. So yes pretty frustrating as its all ready to go but just electrical issues holding it back. Im hopefully going to trailer the car down to SC autos on Friday to hopefully get it up and running properly, Ill then trailer it back home and then begin running it in.

Anyway due to a leaky injector o ring I had the fuel rail out, I thought id give a go at polishing it up. 1 hour of buffing with an old DA pad and some autosol and its turned up lovely, i don't know how long it will stay like this but oh well.




















Thanks