So first TD with my R26 and nuts on front right wheel were coming loose in a way that felt like I had a flat. Not nice. Quick Google and KTR sell stud nuts and mention it's a known problem for Meg nuts to come loose on a track. Seem cheap enough. No idea which size I need. Are they a faff? I won't be swapping wheels that often - only when they need replacing. Cheers Eddie
Are you on about wheel studs and nuts or standard wheel bolts coming loose? Correctly seated and torqued standard Megane wheel bolts shouldn't come loose on track.
I have used both studs, and nuts, and never had any problem on road, or track. Torqued correctly, they should be fine.
Ever had your wheel resprayed/powder coated? You'll find you only ever get things properly hot on and track and if they sprayed into the holes the paint/coating can melt and loosen the nuts.
Torque to 130nm and should be fine unless wheels are referb as paint will affect bolt 'grip' on wheel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You always should check your wheel nuts are torqued before going out and when you come in!!!! The heating up of the tyres as well as the forces exerted are more ch more than you will see on the road so be silly not to check! I find after a race there is sometimes a slightly loose bolt but very rare!! In short always check you will see at any level racers and mechanics always check the wheel bolts or nuts!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not a mechanic or a racer. This is one of the reasons I miss my zx6r. Ride up to track. Go on track. Ride home from track. I know I'm on the wrong forum for this :-)
Copper grease........very misunderstood and misused. Wheel bolts are designed to be dry torqued, so using anti size or grease actually increases the physical torque loading on the bolt and thread assembly due to the thread friction inhibiting properties. They end up being actually tighter than the recommended torque setting used and set.
Do not touch the bolts at all!!! Just make sure they are torqued before you go out and you will be fine! For the 2 mins it takes why take the risk! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also, if you haven't already done it, is bin the locking wheel bolts and replace with a standard hex bolt for trackdays. Lockers can be a PITA. If you're going to float around a paddock with a Torque wrench then also get yourself an Alpine Stars nomex top and some race booties otherwise people might think youre just a spanner monkey.
Draper do a fairly decent certified one for about £25-£30 but for track days even a halfords own one will be good enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
about 25% increase on torque value, so a bolt with anti-seize and a torque wrench set at 130nm will actually be 160nm when it clicks..I was a habitual copper slip addict after a few seized wheel bolts during my early driving days, but if you remove the wheels a few times a year then no need for grease.
Loads of stripped threads particularly with steel bolts into alloy when someone thinks a seriously lubed thread is a much better solution. Some even increase the required torque because they think a lubed thread may also work loose.
I'd be more concerned about the bolt stretch and it shearing/failing under fatigue on track, or worse on a motorway, or backroad. I remember back in my first proper car (UK scooby back in '98) my first trackday I wrenched the bolts on as tight as I could with copper-slip, thinking that was the right thing to do...hate to think how much force I used and what the final bolt setting was....lol
