My 225 Trophy Project

Discussion in 'Megane Projects' started by Trophyboy, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. Its basically cost me £132.40 for all the pipe work and £50 for the filter which i bought off a chap on here. There usually £70 ish.

    Jubillee clips i got from work so total cost was £182.40

    Still cheaper than the Ktec & ITG set up and your getting the filter way down into that cold air feed.

    Bear in mind you have to cut the original battery tray to get the pipe work past it.
     
  2. Well ive been back on with putting it back together today. Back is killing leaning over it all day but its starting to come together. Fitted all the new hoses, inlet manifold etc and re taped all the loom and started routing it back

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    Done the short shift mod too and all i can so is wow. Prob the best mod for for a 225

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    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
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  3. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    looking very smart and clean!
     
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  4. Cheers Matt. Its coming on slowly but surely mate.

    Was the battery tray the only thing you cut back for the filter pipework?

    Cheers
     
  5. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

    And a bit of the ECU bracket
     
  6. Been doing a bit more on the Trophy today.

    Nearly there now, just a few more hoses to fit, radiator, condensor, cooler then front panel etc

    Ordered up new coil packs and injectors are away been cleaned & tested

    Few pics

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  7. Little trip to Reno parts this morning

    New lower radiator mount (£2.77)
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    New bracket for oil breather (£3.12)
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    New oil cap locating ring (£10.62)
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    Type D coolant (£10.88)
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    Last edited: Oct 6, 2016
  8. Also finished painting the door handles & covers in the nearest match i could get with a semi gloss lacquer

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  9. 8cbbfa45c071e9cd5ce8a9ee17d9fbd0.jpg

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  10. Plastic engine cover painted in Renault Cup Anthracite (205-272) paint code same as wheels.

    Decals still to be fitted then final lacquer in semi gloss

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  11. Door Handles all fitted up

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  12. Sorry to hijack the thread mate but how do you remove the door handles?


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  13. Hi mate

    Im doing some bits on the car later so ill do you a little guide. Its pretty straight forward to do mate
     
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  14. Hi all
    Well its been a while since i updated this due to being really busy with work but now off for 2 weeks and gonna crack on with the trophy.

    Basically as old posts above i developed a misfire and upon doing a compression test i was getting nothing on cylinder 2 so it was basically an engine out job and full rebuild.

    Cracked on this morning and pulled the engine out. Took me 6 hours but ive never done this before haha
    Thanks to Ian on the guidelines on getting it out. Wasnt too bad once i had all the suspension off. 4c0a2abe549432ead779d1604df529ad.jpg

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  15. Once engine was out i cracked on with dismantling the engine. Removed g/box and put to one side as i know its fine. New R26r clutch to be fitted.

    Anyway found the problem once head off, number 2 piston had a hole in it and had scorched the bore.
    Headgasket was absolutely fine so im not sure what has caused this?? Anyone help?
    All valves seem to be ok apart from coked up. 3c8b62b59918eb620fcbf3c418a88395.jpg 38dfaf1ddf4cd7a020a2f046b318ab0d.jpg 08489fe40815b253ce9e157d88877004.jpg 73446db7c78c15d7d9a73ee9ddfaf34b.jpg 6e606b79f2a82bfd54127f2f1dd0bc2f.jpg 5d3f41fd27b57beaa45abcf8afda44c3.jpg 4d617b0622637f1e6aa545c186e29483.jpg 8a25865b5330fb0a5602b9ca90a2d0bc.jpg

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  16. I also noticed a problem with one of the cam seats. It has a deep score in it. Hope it can be salvaged and head isnt totally shot.
    At this stage im unsure what to do as i dont have the funds to fully forge it.
    Thinking of just replacing damaged piston, hone the bores, new rings, big end & mains bearings and having the head stripped and rebuilt.

    Also the turbo has some serious play in it so not sure where to buy another core and replace or go the 250 route.

    Any input from you guys would be ace as this is the 1st engine build ive ever done. 599e82f8f0b73917d7837ca229722dd0.jpg 77293fad93423dad9b07717a7332d9b6.jpg

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  17. Hi mate
    I wouldn't worry too much about the score marks in the cam seats, just make sure it's all clean and the oil ways are clear, best use an air line.
    As for the pistons i would try a local engineering company, for a lot less money you could pick up piston kits for a lot less than a piston from Renault, a quick look the other day and it looks like a piston on its own is £136 each.
     
  18. As for the turbo, get a new core and swap it over yourself, think the core i bought (new) was about £170 posted.
     
  19. Cheers for replying Ian. I see what you mean about it being much easier to take out engine than removing head in situ.
    Cat, turbo etc have bolts that you can hardly see haha.

    Would i get away with just replacing the damaged piston? Theres 1 on ebay in Germany for £40 posted.

    Obviously removing all others, have everything chemically cleaned and refitted with new big ends, mains, full set of rings etc and honing all bores?

    Would that score in cam seat not cause drop in oil pressure? Cam itself on the machined face is fine. Its just the cam seat on the head.

    Cheers
     
  20. Also where is best to get all the bearings etc from? I know engine dynamics do them but you must be able to get them elsewhere surely?
     
  21. There is a company i use down here, i have used them for all sorts of engine stuff, you must have some company near you that does this sort of thing.
    I am sure that if i went in i could get piston kits, all the bearings and gaskets from them, they are a bit old school engineers been around for about a 100 years (maybe not that long :laughing:) i have 3 good pistons but they have different markings on the crown, not sure what the difference is, or you could just go 250 engine, love mine :sunglasses:
     
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  22. Small update...

    Managed to strip down the block last night and started dropping everything into the ultrasonic chemical bath for cleaning.

    Crank journals were all good as were the bearings so will just be a case of replacing those along with big end bearings.

    Ordered up Victor Reinz top & bottom gasket/seal kits along with headbolts. £102 all in so was happy with that.

    Dropping block of tomoz for a skim & hone plus a chemical clean. e0b928ab35f67cf2c4c677ccc1b13efc.jpg 112c99c3e4470b85ec682e92dac5560a.jpg 5620aae5d339b8b5e46feba130b00638.jpg 07e3f47aa1b67f6f1819336e30a86f30.jpg 56c0a19bc68cdd795febe0c11a21faa8.jpg

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  23. And the culprit damaged piston pre & post ultrasonic clean.

    Still trying to figure out what has caused this and get to the bottom of it as i dont want this happening again.

    After emailing Andy at Engine Dynamics he replied with this:

    It’s difficult to see why that has happened. Initially it looks like some localised detonation. I can only recommend to check the bores, ring gaps and valve sealing when building the engine back up, plus once its running get the tune checked out asap. Best to check fuel trims etc. as you may have an iffy injector?
    Regards Andy

    Sounds like i may have been getting way to much fuel in there or maybe dodgy mixture? Im running a custom air filter set up with ITG down behing fog light so i may need to pipe a direct air inlet from front grill to filter for maximum air intake.
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  24. Anyone tell me whats the best way to remove this crank cog/pulley wheel?
    Tried everything but not budging at all. 846605189cb2bb95472a2d5939b1b283.jpg

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  25. Wish i could help mate. Love your attention to detail. Looking forward to read your progress as I like detailed build threads with loads of pictures. Good luck

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  26. Well that's not happened over night, that's taken a while.
     
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  27. Managed to strip down the head today and dropped it into the ultrasonic bath for cleaning.

    Checked the valve seats and all in great condition. Various debate with regards to lapping the valves in. Been told that i shouldnt need too as these new engines are machined to within minimal tolerances but im old School and still might give them a quick hone in. I'm using the same cleaned valves again and going into there original ports.

    Head pre and post ultrasonic chemical bath.
    It was always drilled into me that cleanliness and precision was the key to building a good engine. 7c5809e4d57ea836afabc3964f7f4eb0.jpg 246d64b930d67f6bd50eafca4433dc63.jpg 2e524225ee8cdb494619087678b84ef6.jpg a0be64d38ce117b78160aea93ee1d37a.jpg

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  28. matt e

    matt e South East RSM Area Rep

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  29. Hi Matt
    Well i returned from holiday yesterday and not the best news I had on the blockmachining.
    The damaged bore is beyond honing as it has a small hole in it caused by the melted piston and rings. Just trying to figure out my options really.

    A) full rebore with oversize pistons which to be honest is out of my budget.

    B) Rebore & sleeve damaged bore to standard size but chap said other bores are quite worn. Just waiting to find out what the upper tolerances are for the F4R.774 block.

    C) Find a decent 2nd hand block and just have it skimmed & honed.

    Does anyone know if the 225 had its own block made or was it used on other models i.e. Laguna 2.0L 16v??

    Any info would be much appreciated as feeling a little deflated at minute
     
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  30. I beleive the F4R engine is also used in laguna, scenic, megane, espace 2.0L with lesser BHP.

    Worth a look anyway, why not geta R26 engine instead, more possibilities in term of upgrade and newer updated engine?
     
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  31. Yeah ive just been told tgat the 2.0L Laguna shares the same block so this could be an option.

    I have thought about buying a full complete engine but it's a case of what are you buying?? Will it last 5 miles or 50k?
    I've have to strip it down anyway and rebuild it cos thats just me.

    Think the route to go is getting another good block, skim & hone and start the rebuilding process.
     
  32. Hi TB
    I have two engines here, one is complete, you would just need your ancillaries, this engine was the one i removed to fit the 250 engine, ran really well no smoke, knocks or rattles, did quite a few track days with it and it never let me down.

    There is also another that i bought to Forge, but i managed to get a 250 engine that is why i have not done anything with it, its all stripped, this one lost a bit of compression on one cylinder and has a very slight mark in cylinder 1 nothing major.
     
  33. Have you checked HSperformance, they currently breaking a few R26/225 at the moment,
     
  34. Little update as to where im at with the rebuild.

    After heading to the machine shop to collect my original block expecting it to be refaced & honed it was bad news.
    The block was scrap as once the damaged bore was honed there was a hole around 2mm deep.
    Options were to overbore with new oversize pistons, bored and sleeved to standard size or get another block. After a few conversations with a few lads on Clio Sport it was best I get another block.
    So the hunt was on and blocks on there own are scarce, especially decent ones.

    Massive thanks to Andy Bond who helped me locate one over at RS Tuning.
    So a trip over to Leeds to catch up with Paul and among his vast amount of spares, sat there was a complete block inc pistons/rods that cant have done more than 30k. Just what the doc ordered. Fee agreed, picked Pauls brains on numerous things regarding rebuilding it and he also mentioned that my piston failure was almost certainly fuel pump related. It's something thats always overlooked on 225's and put down to injectors etc.
    So a new complete fuel pump is on my list of things to get.

    Anyway some pics below of the block inc strip down back at the shop.

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  35. Spent an hour masking everything off and blocking every hole and it was into the blast cabinet for a very quick shot blast on the front face, rear was fine and will only take a scouring before paint
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  36. Once blasted it was de-masked, blew out with 200psi of air then dropped into the ultra sonic bath for a 1 hour soak.

    Once done it was blew out 200psi of air and came out pretty clean.

    Dropping it off today for a reface and glaze bust then will give it a few coats of high temp satin black as per original. 3f636f2446f2b426fb0fd1645b6ab6f9.jpg 2e715d6f8cf099733113e5b4e0ecc80d.jpg 77dc210702241ab35ab0c277d5894868.jpg

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  37. Turned my attention to the pistons & mains caps etc and once old rings were removed they were dropped into the sonic bath for cleaning.
    It will also let me inspect the pistons better for any small cracks in the lands but all were good & in perfect condition. No play in the gungeon pin at all.

    Also this was an untouched block and noticed that it had 1 piston marked C and 3 pistons marked B so I guess it doesn't matter as i thought they all had to match. Obviously not haha 311b5d717a53f226e88d7a1191b8adae.jpg 947314b8ca80f233ba1c0659bc715e25.jpg dbacbb06df93fdf3bd439af5ee8d544d.jpg 1e15a68318f4d0fc099145686beca6b5.jpg c01a3ae7cd944f701ff243af1ed284b6.jpg e37e98c7f58cd4578403228e2c798860.jpg 00b9194f8af558a35b7dd7bbd3675540.jpg 61ae72783c19de8346087e96b967f260.jpg

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  38. Also managed to strip down the Brembo calipers and give them a blast before dropping them off at the powdercoater to be done in Capsicum Red which ive found out to be the original brembo colour.
    Original pistons will be used but new seals & bleed nipples all round. 760a2e27f411f06f5aeb93c1406116de.jpg 0fcb9f02208337e9ba78cdb08a3d2165.jpg

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  39. Blasted all the other aluminium cast engine parts and made a start painting them up using Eastwood Alumablast paint.
    It's exactly like fresh cast aluminium from the factory
    Painted part of the left and freshly blasted part of the right.
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  40. Also priced up a load of engine parts etc with my local Renault dealer so may help with part numbers & prices if anyone needs them
    All prices are including VAT 42c44f2e5bd9dd71b770f8c18dbb9b2c.jpg

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