Didnt think that the Audis Imola is looking so a like with the Renaults yellow, at least it seems from the picture. Hes S4 is stock? As im owned 3x of those cars in the past, they really are slow from the stock but decent remap change the things quite a bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The color only looks the same in pictures, IRL it's a little more yellow than the Mégane, Jaune Sport seems a little more orange next to it. S4 is stock for now, he's had to do quite a lot of maintenance, new turbo's, new lower block, new rear diff, new drive shafts, etc.
Oh yeah tell me, those B5 S4s are not reliable cars at all, i had to fix them like every second week But for the Renault, who know back then that it can be 100x times more reliable than Audi Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Picked up the car yesterday, the culprit was idd the dreaded gearbox mount bolt. Got complimented on my excellent analysis and provided solutions, LOL, all from stuff I learned on here... And some random pics, because everyone likes staring at pictures:
Nice photo's Martijn! The yellow (sirius or sport) is the best color for this gorgeous car in my opinion. Nice Nurburgring sticker btw didn't see it at first. Enjoy the drive now the issues are sorted
Yesterday I had my Vibratechnics torque link fitted. During removal of the stock part: Vibratechnics vs stock: Forgot to take pics after that, to busy chatting with my mechanic, but imagine the top one fitted under the car. Feels a little tighter pulling away from a standstill and during shifting, no more wheel-hop when the wheels spin and more direct reaction when suddenly accelerating after driving a constant speed. Just a little more extra vibrations, mainly at very low revs, so while starting the car or when parking. Doesn't bother me, makes the car feel a little more special/sporty to me.
Thanks for the review, I've always been interested in one of these. Is it a fairly simple thing to fit then?
Quite some vibration on a cold start this morning (2 degrees Celcius over here) and I have to add that on the motorway there is some more engine sound in the interior at 80-90mph. Again, nothing I can't handle, but your tolerance to NVH might differ from mine. From my experience the vibrations get a little less after 500-1000km as the rubber settles, but also because you get used to them during the same time. Yeah, took about 20min on a lift in a well sorted workshop. Not sure I'd do it on my driveway (if I had one), but I know of people who have.
I had one fitted and it does give the feel of a more special car, the extra connection you get through the steering wheel, seat and pedal as it increases the vibrations direct from the motor. Everything feels more positive and tight.
Yeah, I've been thinking about a career in modelling, but it might be hard to combine with my current activities!
Recently got an extra steering wheel (out of a Scenic, but they're the same) and had it retrimmed by Royal Steering Wheels in Alcantara + yellow accents. Came with the black cc-controls, I had the lower trim repainted in gloss black, kinda like the Trophy R wheel, but in yellow instead of red: Love how it came out, looks a lot better IMHO and feels really nice to hold. Here's a before/after: Stumbled upon this location while shooting a video earlier this week, so returned at the end of the day in my own car to snap a couple pics. Car is very dirty with winter grime, but that kinda fits with the background:
Finally got my suspension sorted. It's custom build by AST, but comparable to their 5100 series with camber plates. I asked them for a Nordschleife-ready setup and they changed the valving accordingly. No surprises on installation, apart from noticing that the rear is now a true coilover compared to the stock setup: It was all a bit of a last-minute rush to get the car sorted for a video shoot, only to have to postpone on the day itself due to sudden snow over here. For the ride height I went with a little more than the 34cm wheel center to fender (so 66cm ground to fender) that Raeder Motorsport suggest for the Nordschleife, as it might settle a little lower after some time. Currently at a little over 67cm up front, 68cm in the back. For new shoes I went with EvoCorse SanRemo's in 18x8 ET47 and Nankang NS-2R in 235/40-18. Wheels look awesome IMHO, just a pity that the white decals came of after washing the car for the first time. Tires are a little noisy between 55 and 70 mph, but handle great on wet roads. I was even able to move around in fresh snow! Only thing bothering me is a slight creak from the top left suspension side, might need to investigate some more. Curious thing is the camber being quite a bit of left/right, even though we set both top mounts to max of the adjustment range. We did fit an 8mm drive shaft spacer on the short axle, but that shouldn't be making such a big difference (left -3.4, right -1.2). I'd expected both side to be at around -2. It's annoying that everything has to came undone for camber adjustment, or the alignement guy would have adjusted it for me. Again, some more investigating to be done...
Looking very nice mate The camber adjustment is a real pain! The only way to make it easier is to cut away some meta from the strut tops (Matt's red 250 has had it done). How do you find the ast on the road compared to stock? Is it much worse in ride comfort?
They are 12 way adjustable in bump/rebound and I was advised to start of on the middle setting (so 6 clicks). Set up that way they feel quite similar to the Cup suspension regarding comfort. Ridges in the road, over bridges and such, feel a little harsher, but that's mainly due to the solid top mounts.
What spring rates are you running? I get my ASTs fitted next week along with turret modification so they can give upto 4 degrees camber and can be adjusted on car
Lovely car and great modifications so far. Im very interested in a set of the Evo Corse wheels for my 250 Cup. They look great
FWD needs a stiff front end to help keep it stable at high speeds and it helps that inherent flaw under braking, the nose diving.
Fitted my clubsports this weekend. Did this while it was all off... Can access the bolts on the top mount throughout its entire range of adjustments, takes minutes each side and a quick luck of paint. Sent from my FRD-L09 using Tapatalk
I'm having similar done bar mine will be a round hole with some reinforcement welded in similar to Matt's
I run 700lb fronts on my Clio race car and that's fine so I'm sure the extra engine and chassis weight etc on the Megane will cope well with in excess of that for fronts easily.
Raeder upgrade the front springs on the KW Clubsport from 70N/mm to 110N/mm, so that would be from 400lb/inch to 628lb/inch. They also upgrade the valving, but those numbers are harder to come by. Rear might be harder to compare 1:1, as the KW's use a separated shock/spring like the stock setup. Did some more poking around regarding the ride height on the KW Clubsports: the TÜV papers allow a minimal ride height of 330mm wheel center to fender edge up front (max 30mm higher) and 335mm in the back (max 20mm heigher). Not exactly a fixed guide line for the Mégane, but could be a good starting point for setting them up.
Fitted a Ramair filter, just to hear some more turbo noises. Louder turbo noises than I expected, especially with the window down. But as others have found, quite some Darth Vader noises from behind the dash due to the sound generator. Kinda sounds like the radio is playing static when cruising at 80, so I'm about to order a 38mm bung to get rid of the generator.
I got the dimensions of the FB group, it's a 80mm neck size filter with a Revotec Aluminium hose reducer in 80mm - 70mm OD x 80mm (AR80-70). I used these exact 2: - filter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ramair-Un...-Foam-Air-Filter-80mm-Neck-size-/271656368967 - hose reducer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Aluminium-Hose-Reducer-80mm-70mm-OD-x-80mm-AR80-70-/300778389891 Here are the dimensions of the filter:
