hi, nice project, same of mine you can visit this page to see my lastest news here in Italy http://www.meganeclub.it/forum/index.php?topic=44608.0 tht's my warrior. hyprid turbo gtb2260v, uprated ic, pk4013 gearbox with lsd of pk4018 mrs3, full skat exhaust(delete dpf obviously) @ 1.5 bar of pressure,costant, the car has 172kw, peak @ 1.8 @ 1.9 bar (costant), 189kw, peak 2.2, and is pretty happy to drive the gtb2260v can reach easily 2.4, but i think injectors and fuel pump can fail. looking for some information about the fuel pump you found, the bigger one.
Hello Lawrence and welcome to my thread. I just looked over your thread and I realise we are both going in the same direction. The only difference is you went to a bigger turbo than I plan on going. I do have some questions for you. Prepare yourself. - the front strut bar can be mounted with the bigger turbo as well? I want to buy one but I was waiting to install the bigger turbo and see the clearance. - did the strut bar made any difference to the car? do you feel it more compact? - the powerflex bushes for the rear, are they squeaky? Usually urethane bushes are very noisy in those kind of installations. I still balance between the powerflex and the MRS3 bushes for the back. - any difference after you installed the bushes on the rear? - why did you put the 1st and 2nd gear from the MRS3 gearbox? or what did you gain from this? - I didn't understand exactly what have you done to the differential? any modifications? I am a little disappointed on the diff. I hoped to be a little harder on blocking. How do you find yours? - how is the big GTB2260 turbo on our engine? How is lag? I also see you are running the car a little smokey. Now, about the fuel pump. I can help you with some ideas, but first, can you do some logs to see exactly where the problem is? I'm sure we can hit some fuelling issues and the issues can be in a couple of different places. Because, we need to map the modifications to the fuel pump which is not that easy, I try to do as little modifications as possible in order to make the tuning side as easy as possible. In order to understand some things, can you log: - rpm - boost - rail pressure - diesel metering valve duty cycle - diesel temp (optional) - injection angle - injection duration with your 1.9bar file? I wanted to do this on my car once I have the turbo in place and hit the fuel issues, but maybe you can help before that. I don't know what cables you have available but for sure who made your software should have all it takes. I'm very happy to discover there are other people interested in this car. S.
@ gavin: i'm lawrence rs mci on facebook mate around 254bhp and 567 nm/418 ftlb with smf and reinforced clucht kit/release bearing quite good @ bulardas: this evening i'll answer you propely
Yeah you added me the other week mate, how is it with an smf? I wend dmf and custom made plate, half paddle and half normal.
with SMF : clutch pedal a bit harder has little vibrations at minimum,also and when it stops, but quite good mate. I recommend NOT to Open at Full Throttle (all the time obvious!) in firsts gears, because of the torque can easily damage or break the crankshaft.. SMF its a must if you want to have better performances on this engine.
Hey mate, If you are afraid of your crankshaft, you can limit the torque rise, so even if you put throttle down, the torque will come more linear. If you go crazy with that limiter, you can break anything with the stock engine and stock clutch. S.
Agree limiting torque in first and second would be kinder to clutch, driveshafts and gearbox but you'll still put the same torque through the crank in high gears. Especially when pressing on against drag. Less likely to damage crank in lower gears as wheels tend to slip more.
I was saying to limit the raise rate of torque, that means how fast it goes from 0 to 500Nm request, even if you press the throttle instant. That limit works all the time. And that acceleration is what takes the crank down, not the maximum torque. S.
Yes that's the rising rate on the boost control. Most cars have it limited in first and second gear as is peak boost. Although if a crank isn't up to taking the pounding it will still fail if the torque value is too high within any gear/rev range. I don't see how angular acceleration of the crankshaft has a greater effect than the pure torque being produced and opposed by the engine?
Incredibly interesting reading here! Fantastic job you have done and i really like the car Would love to do many of these things to my DCI but with it being a daily driver covering 800+ miles a week i can see it getting very expensive very fast Might try that short shift mod though I didnt realise the rear exhaust system is the same fitment as the 225 / 230. my plans so far are to have the guts smashed out of the DPF and the car remapped with a slightly freeflowing exhaust. I'll be happy with a reliable 200+bhp and 300+ ft/lb
That should not be an issue. Delete the. Egr, cat and dpf at the same time ie do a free flow exhaust. It cant be loaud like a petrol so dont wory
All my diesels have had straight through exhausts with de-cats and have been pretty noisy Only reason i am wanting to keep the cat is because in the UK it is an MOT failure not to have one fitted to any vehicle that left the factory with one
Cut it in half, stuf a pipe in that wil create a free flow and weld it back together so on the outside you have a "CAT" but on the inside it is free flow The dci are guiete engines so no vorry abaut being loud.
But they dont measure if they actually work or not... Just cut tham in half longitudinally , empty them, insert a pipe in that will create a nice pass trough the remaininm shell, close them and weld.
Yeah this was my plan. I've been told that if testers suspect a DPFay have been tampered with they will tap the DPF to see if it sounds hollow or not. I was thinking of gutting it, welding in a straight pipe and packing exhaust fibres around it into the shell. This was it will still sound full
There solid stainless steel very little vibration when tapped. So very difficult to tell if it's been gutted. I wouldn't weld in a pipe in the dpf. The cat and dpf as standard are restrictive the pipe is only 50mm bore. Simply not big enough for the amount of air Passing through once tunned. The same goes for the intercooler pipes. The inlet to throttle body hose is only 38mm simply tiny for the amount of power these produce. I'm convinced it's to keep the induction noise down to a minimum.
Inlet boost hoses are smaller to improve the cooling of air. 38mm is tiny for any derv running dci power it is very restrictive. I've custom made 60mm boost hoses larger fmic, 70mm exhaust from turbo back. Running over 380ftlbs so it's obviously much less restrictive than the standard setup Not laggy at all.
want to know spec of the lsd...i have a pk4 018 from a 265 mrs3...but there are a lot of differences in it the 2 differential are the same or not?? the gkn simply enter in the gearbox 013? what type of modifications you've done? i'll wait your reply
Hello Tael, All PK4.gearboxes should be the same. Differences are at final drive, gear ratio and diff on 018. So you should crack open the 018 and take the diff out without the final drive and just swap it in your gearbox. While you are there, I recomand changing the gearbox ball-bearings at the same time as they are known weak. At the end, you need to correctly measure and shim the trains in the gearbox. Everything should work flawless. If you still think there are differences, put some pictures with your gearbox and the MRS3.one. Hope this helps, S.
And btw, my swap was made by Mark Black, so maybe you can go there. He definitely knows how to do it. And also, why you work there, make yourself a quick-shifter. It should cost you 2£. That's a big improvment or best gain for pound. S.
thank you for the short reply! i'm from schweiz, and it's impossible to come over you. i have a lot of question to you, so prepare yourself! 1-do you think the dimensions of the diff are the same?because my mechanic said he thinks (he ONLY looks the domes of the gearboxes.....and these are a little different)the differentials have different internal dimensions...is it true? 1a_do you suggest to use the dome of the 018, with the front side of the 013? 2-ball bearings are a good suggest and i think i can go on with in 3-you wrote about of shim the trains of the gearbox...what shim?..can you explain well what is this modify? 4-mark black has an email, so i should write to him about the work? 5- thanks for the patience! and i want to come over this problem! Lorys Inoutin
#3 Shiming means you add spacers that are very thin (they are called shims) and add them so there is a specific clearance in beetwen the dif and the housing. This is done as each unit is slighly diffrent and the clearance has to be specific.
Hello Loris, (I believe this is your name) The best advice I can give you is to go to a gearbox shop specialised in rebuilds. Don't go to your usual mechanic to strip the gearbox and make it back. Mark Black just took the gearbox out of the car for me but then he used a gearbox shop to do all the work. So, I can't really tell you if they used the dome from the 018 or the one from 013, but even if you need to swap the domes, they will still work. As Milos said, shimming is not a modification is just the way you ensure that the diff doesn't touches the cases. Problem is you need to know exactly how much to shim otherwise, you cannot engage gears. Gearbox shop should know how to do this. My gearbox was rebuild using they're spec. As a side note, if I would open my gearbox again, I would try to make the differential a little more aggresive on clamping force. I know the logic behind it, but I never open the GKN from Renault to see how can you make this possible. Somewhere you should have some friction shims which you can chance to something with a higher friction coefficient. I would try to find maybe a race orientated shop. For the quickshifter you need a 10mm ball screw and a hole drilled in that metal level exactly where the step begins. (Make a picture of that plate and I will show you). Is definitely do-able, so stay cool. S.
hi i have just got myself a 175 and this thread is great! any news on the arms yet as im looking at doing mine.
oooooh i didn't know they were numbered!! how do i find out? as you say its a fantastic car and im loving it!
Officially they aren't but its still the order they were built in. Contact Renault UK customer services, they can find out.
just completed the short shift mod and wow what a difference it makes! best couple of hours and £3 i ever spent lol i converted the headlights (halogen projector) to hids at the same time and i can actually see where im going now. car just gets better and better
Hello Chris and welcome on board, I know, the shortshift mod is great. About arms, I lost my car in the favour of my better half. I'm trying to get it back so she starts driving the Laguna GT which should put me back on business. I put a lot of thought in the arms and changed the design a couple of times. Can't say when they are going to be ready but definitely is not a dead project. Hope you enjoy your car. S.
