Big brake kits

Changing Discs after every trackday? Sounds a bit extreme.

 

Don’t know anyone who’s done this Horg, usual route is to go for mk3 discs and callipers as a very effective upgrade.

Not sure what discs you're running, mate uses Brembo high carbon plain discs on his track r26 and they do an entire season with no issues.

 

Hi Horg
My Brembos are into their 2nd season and apart from surface cracks are still okay, Standard Calipers and DS1.11s

 

Exactly the setup my mates car uses with no ducting and has no problems, perhaps try a change of pad horg, or go mk3 setup.

 

can very likely also be driving style, some folks much harder on brakes than others

 

ianplymouth had the mk3 set up on his mk2 track car with no issues,with many track days.

 

Yes you do need 250 discs with the bigger callipers horg.

 

OMG what are you doing with your brakes, do you do cool down laps, do you bed them in when new, the only other thing is pad build up on the disc's, that's when you stop and the pads deposit material on the discs.

That was the only problem i had, but driving and braking on the road sorted it out.

I had the mk3 setup on my mk2, no air ducting, ran loads of different pads, Performance friction Z rated were great, but they don't work on my 265, i ran Carbon Lorraine 8's and they were way too much for me, these are the ones i now use on the mk3 and there okay, nowhere near the stopping power of the mk2.

I know a couple of guys that have run Winmax on there mk2's, but they were the 5's i'm sure, i have not used them so don't know what there like, although i have driven one of the cars on track (mk2 with mk3 brakes) and they seamed pretty good.

 

I have discoloured my calipers but the disc's are still good

 

I have done at least 8-10 trackdays on the same disc's maybe 2 sets of pads on my mk3, i'm really heavy on my brakes.

I could make back up quite some distance on faster cars in the braking area, I was told by an instructor to brake hard into a corner as late as you dare, if you brake too much then let off, better than gentle into a corner and pressing harder and harder to slow it down, the second one builds up a lot of heat.

 

Sorry mate, it has to be your driving style then, i do a lot of trackdays and i don't think i have ever had disc's warp that bad that i needed to change the discs.
All i ever ran was HC Brembo discs and a variety of pads, some were better than others.

The discs are easy Ebay etc my local parts supplier does me a good deal as well, they need to be drilled or slotted as the holes are 114.3, mk2's are 108.
You need longer bolts and some adaptor plates making, calipers you can get new, used or from a scrapyard/breakers.

I did a thread on here a long time ago

 

Some disc and pad combinations never seem friendly whereas others are perfect, like RichK’s suggestion.
Sometimes not being an aggressive braker means you’re spending more total time on the brakes and therefore less total time off the brakes leading disc warp.

 

I was told the same, so I changed my driving style and brake fade delayed at least a few laps. firstly i concentrated on finding the latest brake points at the end of the long straights and it helped significantly.

 

i was also told by local AP Racing dealer, the longer you hold your brake the more heat it generates than you slam it very hard but short.

 

I had pad pick up in my early days, shuddering when you brake, but now, I brake as late as I can, get on, get off the brakes, no lingering, and do not now have any problems. I run DS 1.11, they have ruined the wheels, but they do stop.

 

Where about's are you in the country

I'm at Donington on the 20th, can show you if you want

 

What pads are you running ?????

 

if i recall correctly they are PFC. only use them for track.

 

Have you ever checked the inner steering track rods and tie rod ends on both sides?. I had problems in the past with those, changed them, problems sorted when heavy braking

 

Would grooved discs help maybe?