How to Guide - r26 rear pads and discs change.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tyres section' started by B8sy, Jun 4, 2016.

  1. OK so here it goes, my first guide... Disclaimer I'M AN AMATEUR NON QUALIFIED, FOLLOW THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I DON'T ACCEPT ANY LIABILITY.

    1. Loosen wheel nuts
    2. Jack car up and place axel stand under appropriate point
    3. Remove wheel
    4. Start by removing hub nut cover by using screwdriver and hammer, I had to give it quite a few wacks all the way round
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    5. Start with these 2 x 13mm bolts
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    6. Remove caliper off brake pads, you might need to use a screwdriver to force a mm of space to slide it off, avoid hammer if you can as it will likely damage the paint on the caliper.
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    7. Place caliper somewhere secure, don't put a lot of tension on the brake cable

    8. Remove the pad guide clips with a screwdriver, don't bend them if you plan on reusing.
    0c9eb04d52eaeca365fe4a23a48c8e90.jpg

    9. Remove the caliper carrier bolts at the back, there are 2 different options, I went for these as I can't get a socket round 1 of the others, there were on tight so had to use a large torque wrench
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    10. Using a breaker bar undo the hub nut with a 36mm impact socket,
    3149600cbf6f587862721b54b7edf956.jpg

    11. Remove brake disc
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    12. With a wire brush clean this area
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    13. Fit new disc and hub nut to 175nm torque, also refit caliper part that goes over the disc.
    cece2b528a2ba83c346b705beb09b0d7.jpg

    14. Fit new hub nut cover, I had to use old one as new one wouldn't fit, don't hit them too hard!
    17de9d88f5fac68bc5e2ba4e52d403fe.jpg

    15. Clean up and refit pad guides
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    16. Please copper grease under and on top of pad guides and refit them.

    17. Place brake pads and out grease where piston and caliper will contact
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    18. Refit caliper and do bolts back up
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    Job done.
     
  2. Oh, then pump brake pedal about 10 times and do the same with handbrake on and off. That should set the pads properly.

    Work on flat ground and chock the wheels as you need to take the handbrake off.
     
    martin1977 likes this.
  3. Great guide!! Just to add:
    step9- calliper retainer bolts are an E16 socket.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    B8sy likes this.
  4. Amazing, thank you. I will need to do this soon and never done it before so this will be a great help.

    Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
     
  5. Glad to hear it, make sure you have all the tools, take your time, be safe with axel stands, etc.
     
  6. The admin should make a FAQ section
     
  7. Get a piston rewind tool too as if the pads are that worn you wont be able to get the new pads in :wink:
     
  8. Or, I've used a small G clamp to push the pistons back in before
     
  9. I would love to but I only use Tapatalk app and can't see an option. Can't even remember my login details for the full site as the app is so easy to use.
     
  10. rear pistons wind in mate
     
  11. Can anyone recommend a good place to buy the discs?
     
    George@RTR Parts likes this.
  12. George rtr parts. He is on this site.
    Also to add above crack open the master cylinder and check fluid levels before and after and during... brilliant guide
     
    George@RTR Parts likes this.
  13. very good point about the fluid...i had to remove some of mine when i pushed the pistons back in..dont want that stuff seeping out all over the place!
     
  14. i second this...mega fast service..
     
  15. I purchased 100s of pipettes in plastic from eBay a few years ago. They come in handy for these jobs and others
     
  16. 100 pipettes on eBay for 3 quid delivered. Worth having for this and other jubs
     
  17. what is it about mk2 meganesports putting that `ribbing` on the rear disks?
    they all do it.
    Just a bizarre wear pattern.

    I have the ds2500 in the rear of mine,and have to say are not impressed.
    Rears still droning away after a couple high speed stops..no better than my crappy yellowstuff i had before.
     
  18. Oh and another thing....check to see if there is a bit of play with the pad top and bottom. It it is too tight or snug then file off a bit of the metal on top or bottom bits....or just clean up a bit. It will stop the pads getting stuck/stiff when the get hot due to expansion of the pad metal.
     
  19. Thank you and great point!

    Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
     
  20. Is it necessary to replace the hub nuts an the cover?
    Probably a daft question but never tackled this before.
     
  21. Also, a G clamp to wind the piston back? Take it they're not threaded?
     
  22. Yes they are threaded, you need a wind back tool
     
  23. CJ_RSport

    CJ_RSport RSM Moderator

    Its good practice, Majority of rear discs with bearings in like these cars will come with new nuts and covers though.
     
  24. Does anyone know the torque settings for the bolts involved?
     
  25. 2020041212410100.jpg

    Here are the torque values, I found in a Renault workshop manuel.

    According the torque for the big bearing hex nut, I'm not sure, if the 280 Nm is really correct, as I found a value of 220 Nm as well. But I think this lower torque was for the standard Meganes, not the RS ones...

    There seem to be also two different sizes of hex nut, for the two different bearing sizes:

    25 mm bearing bore -> 30 mm socket
    30 mm bearing bore -> 36 mm socket ???
     
  26. Thanks.

    Completely forgot about this page on here, maybe because my car has been SORN for about 4 months.

    Can I just confirm that the 2 13mm bolts and the caliper carrier bolts don't need to be torqued to a certain amount? They just need to be done up tight?

    Does anyone know of a similar guide for the fronts?
     

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