Hi, I'm just wondering if anyone on here has changed the front brake rotors on an R26? It looks to be a fairly straight forward job but hey, don't they all to start with. I found a good post about changing the rears but can't find anything on the fronts? Also does anyone know the torque settings for the caliper bolts? Thanks, Rich.
easy job if you can get it all apart. You will need a large allen key style socket for the caliper bolts,so check you have such a thing first.(12mm i think). I just make sure they are on tight when putting back on,never worried about correct torque. The biggest problem is usually the 2 stupid torx grub screws that hold the disk to the hub. They seize in,and usually snap the torx bit,when trying to get them out. What i have found that works best,is to drill a 3mm hole in the corner of the grub screw,then knock it round with a punch. I was able to reuse all 4 on my own car..but it took some force to get them moving. Would be good if you had some very high quality releasing fluid squirted on them the night before, to try and ease removal WD40 wouldnt touch it. Disks might need persuasion with a rubber wooden mallet to come away. Once off,clean up the hub face,before mounting new disks. take off the brake fluid reservoir cap,and push the pistons back, so the caliper and pads slide easy,over the new disks. The pistons should go back easy. clean off new disk faces with a degreaser. Fit calliper back on. make sure the fluid reservoir hasnt overfilled by pushing the pistons back...it shouldnt..but check..cap back on. pump brake pedal to close pads back in. road test...sorted!
Thanks mate, I did think the little Torx screws look like they could be trouble. Do you use a threadlock on the caliper bolts? Cheers
To remove the disc retaining screws I place my torx bit into the screw and give it a good strike with a lump hammer. The shock 9 times out of 10 breaks any seal. My small impact driver then spins it out no problem
What i do about these countersunk screw is before refiitting i ever so slighlty grease the cone part and the thread , this avoid the cone to stick and get stuck next time i remove it, never add an issue. If the screw comes loose there is no risk as the disc is still held in place between the wheel and hub.
this is good advice...its defo the countersunk cone head that gets jammed on.so the grease on this should stop further problems. When i eventually got mine out last time with the punch,as soon as i managed to break the fkn seal..i could literally undoe with my fingers...so its defo the screwhead face that rusts in.
i gave mine a good knock out with a big punch before trying to remove...bastards wouldnt budge,and twisted my torx bits like a corkscrew under the strain!
Tourqued mine up when I refitted them and they can loose after a couple of track days. Have since used a medium strength thread locker on the bolts and they have obviously stayed solid. I have a pair of plain brembo discs for sale basically brand new if you haven’t already got some?
Hi Chris, I have used the medium strength threadlock too. I just thought belts and braces etc. I have just bought a set of the Brembo plain discs. Bugger, I would have had yours ..
Hi Guys, just wanted to say thanks for the good advice. Job done, it went like a dream. Gave the Torx screws some penetrating oil last night and left them to "soak" over night. Gave them a few hefty thumps with hammer and punch and they spun out dead easy. Just got to get everything bedded in now before Cadwell Park on Wednesday.. Cheers
Cadwell is a great track. Nice mix of slow and fast corners plus nice elevation changes. Well worth a track day there.
