Posted up a few months ago about looking for a 250 in the new year, was desperate for a certain spec and was willing to hunt for it. Another rsmegane member Chris_P messaged me and the rest is history This is the night I picked it up Spec is xenons, yellow/black material Recaro's, 19" steevs, rs monitor, climate etc etc, its had a stage 1 kit at k-tec with full exhaust and downpipe, intercooler and panel filter, along with whats imo not a great map. Needs a few bits doing and I had already ordered some stuff before I even picked it up. I'm a bit ocd so there's a lot to follow..
First of all, it was desperate for new rubber and the drivers door didn't open from the outside, all this was reflected in the deal made and me and Chris where both happy (I think ) with the agreed price. So on that, already ordered and received; Black badge covers Black tpi bolts Heko wind deflectors, which i'm not sold on yet metal plates, which I'm still faffing about with on how to fix them well magnetic phone holder in air vent 4X Michelin pss wheels currently being refurbed by paintituk First day out and trying not to park it near another soul lol attacked the door problem first; had to cut back the glue on the insulation after some sneaky 'poke phone in door and try to take some pictures'. you can clearly see the problem managed to poke it back in slightly then used a screw out of the door card to properly seat it, sorted! quite like the badge covers, think I'm going to either going to plasticote the rs badge or remove it metal plates mocked up, quite like the euro font, had some on another car for a year and never had any grief... liking the look of the wind deflectors but they make more noise at speed than when they're off so I'm not sure I'm happy, maybe they're not fitted well enough?? I don't know new bolts are night and day wheels straight off to paint it with the new rubber, £140 a corner for 235/35/19 :eek: and this is how she sits, patiently waiting new boots, picking up tomorrow morning thankfully Wheels will be gloss black, wanted to re diamond cut but unfortunately they've been done before and the nsf is low on material so was advised against it. Lots of plans, will be detailed, doing arches as its up on stands atm, unfortunately its had a knock from under neither and the nsf wheel arch liner is foobard, time for a new one. Soon for a remap at rstuning, later in the year will be on kw's, Evo Corse sanremo 18" in black with some track orientated rubber, uprated gearbox mount, retrimmed wheel and gaiters, new floor mats, complete fluid change, plugs and filter, all bloody sorts
thank you kindly sir. So here's the down side update. Not massive problems but they will need to be sorted, wont be happy knowing they're there lol So somethings taken a whack underneath the nsf wheel arch If anyone knows an arch liner going let us know, getting on to a dealer in the morning, I assume these are the same as non rs versions? will check fleabay etc. metal underneath looks scratched, will get the liner off, rub down and some protection on there. Any advice on how to tackle a little paint would be appreciated, theres a small patch flaking off in the nsr arch Will gently peel off the shit bits, slight rub, ipa and some touch up paint, just want to stop it in its tracks, doesn't need to be pretty. Anyone know of why the fuel cap hangs out a bit? I'll look into it but its obviously a bit loose in the fitting and is hanging on the piss slightly, the rear of the inside is flush with the body work, should obviously slightly indented and the front so the outside is flush The nsf wing has had a nick and been repaired by a buboon.... this will need sorting properly, its crap I'll get to all these little bits, no dramas, for some good news Rubber!!
Haha, yeah I am mate very happy. It goes very well, was a right handful on the old tyres, sure the new pss will sort it out a bit. The maps very torquey but has a flat spot, it builds torque nice and quickly but then it backs off before coming back. A tank of V-Power drastically helped but it's still there. Nurburgring early september, hopefully brands and snet in the summer
Congrats on the car and enjoy. Like myself, I bought my 250 8 weeks ago and already did a trackday, detail, timing belt, waterpump,tensioners, thermostat, motul brale fluid, coolant, carbon lorraine pads, midbox chop and driver recaro seat refurbished lol
Alright topper! Thankfully most of those bits don't need doing to this atm, its got ds2500's atm which aren't too bad, need new fluid, waterpump etc has been done and the drivers recaro is mint still No you dont see many in red mate thats most of the reason I was determined to have one haha
I like that red better than the current red being sold on the 275 cup s and nav . Looks rad. You gonna get another map to solve that flat spot ?
In the black rs badge front ever thought about removing the standard one, storing it and replacing it with a sticker, in black, of the logo? It's what I've done on my 275 and it looks good (I have black badge covers too) Love these in red.
Was just looking at the flaking paint on the underside wheel arch. I had a mk3 clio 200 that had the very same issue.
Looking amazing, I think Red is one of the best colours for the Mk3 . I'd keep the RS Badge, maybe even spay it black? Also debating getting my 19's powder coated gloss black, have to see how they look on yours.
Lol you know this odinson, must admit to having serious car envy, must try not to copy you too much lol, I desperately wanted enkei rpf1's but with the funny offset on these cars they just wouldn't look right. But love the j hook 2 piece discs and enkeis on your car mate
Cheers bro. I hate red cars but these in red just work. I love rpf1 and you can get them to work. Always nice to try something different
Yeah mate I'm a japanese car guy at heart tbh. I've owned, lol ; Glanza gt turbo, 190bhp Civic type r ep3 Dc2 import type r S2000 So I've always wanted some rpf1's, but in the offset required they just dont look great, spokes are convex... Not a fan. Yeah I agree on the red, just stands out. Thanks guys, seems to be a gooden. Got the wheels back on
bit of an update, with me going to tpi bolts I noticed they dont have a rotating collar like the stock bolts, so after I cleaned up and sealed the newly refurbed wheels I copper slipped the bolt holes and bolts to try keep some easy movement there. After some driving on the wheels I wasn't happy, couldn't decide if the wheels where poorly balanced, alignment or just me. A trip to Tyre-smart essex in Witham revealed all 4 wheels not perfectly balanced and uneven toe out at the front wheels. running slightest amount of toe in for daily driveability. Really recomend tyre-smart essex, guys there know there stuff, dont use impact guns and take the care that car guys take. Needless to say it drives a lot happier now. Popped to brands last monday for some inspiration, some old friends where on a track day with open-track, got some awesome passenger laps in and got me buzzing to get the megane on track a few laps in the jds evo was superb, my buds driving some time attack for them this season. had a play with the rs monitor, made a blob, cool story, I know. Started on the detail, hate the first wash, just reveals all the bad stuff, the megane has some really shit stone chip repairs and some heavy scratches on the bonnet, going to rub back the excess with wet and dry, re do with paints4u kit and try to smarten them up, see what happens. new i6 automotive foam lance doing its business with ultra mousse got going with a strong apc mix and cleaned out all the panel gaps etc, lots of crap accumulated in the gap in the spoiler two bucket wash, I use a lot of autosmart products, great value in bulk and good for everyday needs after a couple hits of tardis and a clay, starting getting to work with this lot atm I'm left with this, after only managing to finish sealing the roof, so lots more to do, will work on the bonnet next, see how far I can go with the scratches more bits came in the post, got a new arch liner, k-tec brake lanes, ate fluid, new brake pins with p clips, more interior clips and arch liner clips, will crack on with it all tomorrow. Also got a vibratechnics gearbox mount and some h&r springs on the way as a temporary fix to the arch gap while I get some money together for clubsports or similar.
Was always advised to copper slip bolts, never been told not to. After some research I see what you're saying, possible over torquing, makes sense. Wheels are coming off today anyway, will see how they are and consider a clean up
2nd on removing the copper grease from the wheel bolts .. My front wheels kept coming loose on track years ago .. Couldn't figure out why .. When they got hot the bolts just came loose . Turned out to be the copper grease Just rub them clean with a rag and that should be ok .. I would definitely remove it all from the wheel holes tho .. Brake cleaner should sort it
Looks well mate Very similar to mine (mines a red cup) but I managed to bin the steevs for some AXL's. However they are in gloss black, need to get em refurbed in satin really. I've got two days before Easter to spend some time on a full decontamination, maybe time for a correction if the weather is ok By the way are they door card clips? If so do they come as a set?
Looking for opinions, negative positive or otherwise on spacers. The standard wheels will only be for road use, the odd bit of spirited driving at most, in the summer it will run on some 18's (possible td1.3's or enkie rpf1's in appropriate offset) so I was looking for a solution to easily space the standard wheels essentially for looks (yah yah scrub radius etc etc) whilst it not taking a lot of effort to swap over. So, I ordered a stud conversion kit, not k-tec, elite-developments M12-1.5 stud kit with black nuts, and having superforma make up some slip on hubcentric spacers at 20mm. Obviously stud length appropriate to accommodate spacers, and also having superforma make the stud holes M12 width, obviously, but with a small chamfer on the hub face side so that they don't bind on the bulge that separates the thread on the stud going into the hub and the the thread coming out the wheel. I realise thats not exactly a question but if anyone has any ideas as to a problem or otherwise with the plan? Just as I've not seen anyone using this system on a rs250, I'll get pictures up of the fit and quality when they arrive. I've seen problems with spacers failing with the extra bolt system, shouldn't be a problem with these and again I wont be tracking on them, If I decide to track on these wheels, which is unlikely, the spacer will come off.
So I've been doing some of this some of that Buddy dans a mechanic, useful being able to use his shop after hours, spring change was a bit of a pain, the shops spring compressor wasn't an ideal fit due to the already fairly short standard springs but we got it done. Looking decent underneath now, lots of stuff fitted. during the bleed the nsf inner nipple threaded out, noticed when I turned it back the fluid didn't stop... Drilled out to 11mm, tapped to m12x1.0, fitted motorbike bleed nipple sleeve with its own seat and smaller m6 nipple on a copper wash, better than new Fitted 20mm slip on spacers, hence the very long studs, took some work, but much happier with it aesthetically, which has its importance too, ride wise it feels more stable, but certainly less turn in, maybe a little more understeer but haven't pushed it, either way this will be the setup on the stock wheels, plan for new wheels in the summer in a better offset. before; after ; and as she sits today, The rears rub a little, need to remove the screw in the rear outer liner and look at what can be/needs cutting if any. Got a full set of fluids waiting to be changed, Fuchs gt1 5W-40, renault filter, Gold Ap-10 magnetic sump plug, new thermostat and coolant, millers gearbox oil, pollen filter. The car was sold to me as having had a lot of work done at k-tec; intercooler, bmc filter, full exhaust, decat and remap, with power graphs included @307 bhp. I've not been happy how the cars been driving and always planned to over write the mao at rs-tuning so sure enough got on the group buy... After getting under the car however it does not have a decat and also after pulling the air filter I found a disposable paper job. It explained a lot and I threw some toys around and re thought out what to do. after a chat with rs tuning, there going to fit one of there decats and then remap it, on 6th of april, see how that goes... For now, what I have done since ownership, with plenty to come is; Wheel refurb new michelin pss all round H&R lowering springs elite-d bullet nose 90mm stud kit 20mm superforma custom made slip on spacers, then slightly 're-engineered' to make work due to 18mm front hub lip and rear bearing caps. New anti rotation links Adjustable arb drop links New nsf rear section arch liner Vibra technics bottom mount heko wind deflectors metal stamped plates. VHT Black painted rear exhaust surround, De-badged Powerflow Panel filter Denso Ik24 spark plugs K-tec braided lines with ate 200 fluid Mr pink brake pad pins with p clips Badge covers Full decon and sealed with autofinesse power seal, topped with tough coat.
Looks good mate, where did you get the spacers from? I'm dying to get some 15mm ones for mine but can't find any anywhere. (I've got studs so need slip on ones) Just seen the post before, I'll give them a call lol
How do you feel the Vibra Technics bottom mount is compared with the OEM one? Did you just upgrade the original part or was it shot already? I do need to change mine as it is busted, but Im not shure if to use the Vibra Technics or just the new OEM one.
Well as I found out the hard way, theres a reason no one makes them. On the front hubs the centre bore locating lip sticks out 18mm. At the rear its 17mm but, the hub bearing has a large cap to keep the elements out. Whats this means is to be a hub centric slip on spacer the center bore needs to be atleast 18mm deep. In other words, you wont get a 15mm slip on spacer, 20mm is minimum really, otherwise it wont be hubcentric and thats no good. Ermm the engine mount, yeah its noticeable for sure but I fitted the lowering springs at the same time so everything feels stiffer but yeah the shift feels good
Looking good Would you have the arch liner part number? Strangely mine is broke in exactly the same place! Cheers
I fitted one as well as my OEM one was trashed (my whole car vibrated when accelerating full, at first we thought it was the DMF really failing, but turned out to be the sloppy lower mount). I love it. Yes, you will have way more vibrations in the cabin (wheel, pedals), at idle and at low rpm when you let the clutch come up. But I love the direct feel to it. If you don't mind some additional vibrations, get it. If you do, get a new OEM one. @durmz; I hope you don't get the dreaded suspension knocking after having fitted the H&R lowering springs. I know of quite some (including myself) that heard hard knocking sounds from the front struts (either left or right) after having fitted them. Especially at very short but steep bumps. At least for me, it turned out the struts were completely destroyed internally; I resulted to fitting H&R coilovers. Hope you don't get it!!
