I think the inlet could be modified but didn’t have a spare in case it went wrong 10m Matt, probably excessive but best to have more than too little when doing it
So an early happy new year to anyone who reads this thread. I got a few Christmas gifts for the Megane, nice little service kit including oil, filter, coolant and new plugs (old plugs have only done a couple of K but there is rust around cyl 3 ceramic where water has got past the coil seal from rain/washing before I changed the coils. With plugs so cheap it’s not worth a misfire. ARP Conrod bolts and a sump gasket too. Plans for 2018 are a set of harness, new rs mats, 250 turbo, map tweak and ds1.11 pads. Then possibly some paint on the rear arches to get rid of the stone chips. They will get PPF on them if they do get painted. I think then it will be the perfect club sport spec R26 in my opinion. Hopefully I’ll get plenty of track time this year after that and can enjoy the car throughout the summer
Current spec as it stands at the beginning of 2018 is as follows... Engine: Forge Recirc Silicon turbo Intake ITG Induction Kit Pro Alloy Front mount Alloy Intercooler Forge Hard Pipes 3" RS Tuning Decat KTEC 3" Exhaust VibraTechnique Mounts RS Tuning Map 630cc Injectors Custom Oil Catch Can Clio 1*2 Crank Pulley 197 Cup Racer Cambelt Cover Air Con Delete (4PK810SF [Gates/optibelt]) Deatschwerks 65C (265L per Hr) Fuel Pump ARP Conrod Bolts (216-6301 [M9]) Transmission: TTV Single Mass Flywheel R26r Clutch Slave Cylinder + Fluid 2 x R26 New Driveshafts Short Shift Body / Exterior: R26R Spoiler Skoda Fabia Splitter Stubby Ariel Bonnet Strut Kit Paint Front Bumper Paint Wing Mirrors LY Powdercoat Under Brace Black Insert Xenon's New Style Renault Badge Silvertec Indicator Bulbs OSRAM 501 LED 6000K W5W Sidelight bulbs LED Rear Number Plate Lights (Xenons Online) New Genuine Front Grills Genuine Front Mud Guards R26R Fog Light Blanks Interior: White LED Bulbs Black Interior Panels Pioneer Double Din Leather Arm Rest Centre Console Snappy Steering Wheel Retrim Snappy Gear Stick Gator Retrim Snappy Gear Knob Retrim K-Tec Racing Megane 2 RS Subframes X 2 Corbeau Club Sport Seats X 2 Battery Relocation Suspension: BC Racing RA Coilovers 7kg F 7kg R 20mm BC Racing RA Coilovers Side Extender Drop Link Stabilizer (X2) [TRW] {BMW E36 M3 427BM0010} Anti Twist Link Stabilizer (X2) [TRW] Inner Tie rod (X2) [TRW] Front wishbone bushes (Powerflex Black Series) Rear wishbone bushes (Powerflex Black Series) Front Anti Roll Bar (Powerflex Black Series) Rear Axle bushes (Powerflex Black Series) Grease Nipple Bolts For Hub Bearings Geometry Setup (10 Mins Toe Out, 1.5 Degree Camber) Wheels / Tyres: Pro Race 1.2 Gloss Antheracite 18x8 ET45 Michelin Pilot SuperSport 235/40/18 95Y Stud Conversion M14x1.5 Brakes: Reyland 2 piece Bell/ AP Rotor (Front) Mintex 1144 Front Pads 197 Rear Discs Genuine Rear Pads Braided lines (HEL, SS Fittings) RBF 660 Brake Fluid Stainless Steel Brake Pin Kit Stainless Steel Brake Nipple Kit (X4) Servicing since i have owned it: Millers Nano 5W40 Engine Oil + Renault Oil Filter + AP10 Gold Magnetic Sump Plug (30/03/2016) Renault NGKR Spark Plugs (30/03/2016) Bosch 21" Front Aero Wiper (02/04/2016) Bosch 18" Front Aero Wiper Motul Nano 75w80 Gearbox Oil (05/04/2016) Genuine Thermostat (05/04/2016) Genuine Renault Auxillary Belt kit (05/04/2016) Genuine Rear Exhaust Mount (X2) (05/04/2016) Engine Oil & Filter (Mark Black) Millers Nano 5W40 (22/10/2016) Genuine Cambelt & Water Pump (Mark Black) (22/10/2016) Engine Oil & Filter Millers Nano 5W40 (06/03/2017) Battery (5 Year Warrenty) (15/04/2017) R26R Washer Bottle (15/04/2017) Renault NGKR Spark Plugs (28/12/2017) 5L Type D Coolant (28/12/2017) ELF Evolution 900 SXR 5W40 Engine Oil + Renault Oil Filter (28/12/2017) The car usually gets serviced around every 6 months, give or take. I have now decided to swith back to the ELF Evolution SXR engine oil, i'll swap the gearbox oil out to Redline MTL stuff next time round too.
Sad news mate! After all the love u gave that car! I hope things get sorted and u can keep it! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Hopefully you don't have too. You've put a lot of time and effort in to this. Would be a shame for you to have to let it go. Hope you can get what ever circumstance sorted and you can keep.
The car is staying for now [emoji1373] So I fitted the parts I had already purchased before considering selling. 250 turbo, arp rod bolts and oil/filter/coolant change. Fitting the rod bolts wasn’t much fun. Renault have a silly size standard control bolt head and don’t allow much access to some of the sump bolts. Cleaned the sump up and give it a lick of paint whilst it was off too. This was the only picture I got I think
Cheers mate, I love it when I get to drive it, always brings a smile to my face! Cheers pal, yep, working fine with no issues! Although you could use a 6pk860 belt with the standard pulley and keep the tensioner in place, only found this out the other day when we had a Megane lump on the stand. Although you wouldn’t get the added benefit of the lighter 172 pulley and no tensioner to replace. Hi Victor, Paul from RS timing mapped it out, the first time the car was mapped. Moving on to this months update, I picked up a brand new Pro-alloy cooler in satin black Then a 250 Actuator from one of the turbo rebuilders down south, I forget who! As mine didn’t come with a 250 one. Part numbers on it so anyone can order the correct one. And finally it was time for mapping yesterday so I braved the poor weather to get the car to Leeds and had a good laugh with Paul and Specy. The car is now running 307hp and 315ft/lb of torque. 5% less fuel than last time (due to the better Dw65c) fuel pump and now only 1.3bar boost in the mid range. Paul said the car was flowing boost great thanks to the new cooler, with only 7degrees increase in intake temps on a pull! He mapped the torque in sensibly and said the car was still pretty safe at that power as it wasn’t holding full boost at any period, knock and afr were sensible too with nothing to indicate it going bang any time soon. (Touch wood!) And finally, I might as well show you all my new pride and joy, lol! The runabout - 56 plate 200k 1.5dci Kangoo, boarded out, and great on fuel!
Excellent info mate and that's a cheap option if i was just to use a shorter belt as im not fussed on running a lighter pulley and tensioner is quite easy to change. Cheers for info pal
Fuel rail with an6 fittings Braided PTFE line with black an6 fittings, I have installed the Feed line so far and capped the return on the rail until I make a suitable sender unit that has a return. Then I will run a FPR and have the map tweaked again. More updates this weekend
I was thinking about the pure motorsport billet housing with a Bosch regulator, I am just unsure where I can mount it. I will fit the return line once I have the sender unit sorted as I will not be running a swirl pot. What are your plans/thoughts? Will you be at any shows this year, would be good to catch up properly.
Mounting is the only problem I have too, Ill get to that when the engine is in I am thinking, hoping to run my return in the same path as the stock fuel line and have been looking at somewhere around the coolant tank. What about you? Good shout on that regulator and housing, Im not a fan of adjustable regualtors, one of the other problems with some regulators at least for me running a 044 is that some are not able to regulate that high flow and can actually increase the pressure above what they are ment to maintain. I also have a bosch regulator, mines a 3.5bar although may swap it for a 3bar, not sure yet. Would be a lot easier not to run the swirl pot to be honest, its been a massive load of work for me and its still not finished! There isnt much space around the top of the oe fuel sender, depending on what lines you want to use that may make running them in the original runs a pain as braided dont bend will in tight spots. Return wise I believe there may be other sender housings that have the return feed that fit, could possibly fit the pump etc in that. Ill be drilling a return in the sender, not a problem for me as I want my lines facing upwards, have a tank bulkhead fitting for that. Would love to get to anything this year! Track days or shows, hoping I can get mine drivable over the next month so its possible I can go, although not looked into any yet, how about you?
Yes that exactly where I’m thinking, somewhere around the coolant tank. 3.5 bar is the standard pressure so it’s what I will buy to start with and see if Paul says more is needed when mapping again. My sender will be a mix and match of a few to get a upper part with the return on plus a decent swirl pot inside. I haven’t decided what I’m doing yet, you will have to keep me posted.
It should be 3.5bar but as the regulators in the sender by time the fuel reaches the rail in the mk2 ita probably more like 3bar. Could have plumbed in a gauge to test that if I thought about it before but a bit late now Paul was telling me to run a 3bar reg on the 875cc's - not sure why. You shouldnt have any fueling issues running the reg up by the rail as long as your pumps up to the job. Should be far more consistant than it being back at the sender anyway! Yeah of course Ill try to keep my thread updated as I go, aiming to have everything finished next week as I want the lump in over the following week!
875’s, you must be aiming for 500hp +? Yep just keep us posted mate, potty I’m not closer, I’d offer a hand
The turbo should be good for that power probably getting to its top end on a 2litre, engine should be if something would go id imagine it would be the crank, or block , fuel systems good, gearbox good for a while at least Cheers mate thats appreciated same to you (if you where closer )
So last night I fitted my new 250 brake setup, consisting of: two genuine new 250/265/275 callipers 250/265/275 genuine brembo discs machined to 5x108 PCD Calliper adapters Disc spigots PFC Z rated pads SS Mr Pink brake pins SS brake nipples RBF 660 fluid Then early this morning I went out to the private road and bed the pads in following the PFC procedure https://www.gb-ent.com/pages/performance-friction-brake-pads-bedding-in-procedure All I can say is WOW! I thought the stopping power was good before but now it is a different league to the R26 brembo’s!
How much did it cost to have the bells re-drilled if you dont mind me asking? I went for the 330mm performance friction discs but with this caliper id imagine this setup has the better stopping power?
I had a few other bits such as the spigots and spacers done with the discs so I’m not to sure on individual prices, give Mechlam Precision engineering a ring, ask for John and tell him Kirk sent you, regarding a 250 brake setup. Yes, as far I’m aware this is now regarded the “best” setup for the r26. The 250 pad has far greater surface area/contact patch than the r26 brembo.
Was going to do the same but to be honest with everything else going on didnt want to focus on it, ill probably do it when the 330s are shot though Looks really good.
One thing from bleeding the brakes on Friday night that annoyed me was the poor condition of the rear brake nipples, so this morning I went out and put new ones in and repainted the rear hubs to freshen them up.
So, I have had the car in with Sam at 54m fabrications over the past couple of weeks to build me a half cage, in the future this may be extended to full cage if I choose to do a few race days. The cage was species as a bolt in with welded in foot plates, it is made from ROPT 510 (https://proformancemetals.co.uk/products/ropt510/) this exceeds MSA & / FIA yield and tensile strength requirements, mig welded plates in the car and the cage itself fully tug welded along with 12.9 grade fixings. The car was stripped back where required, I will let the photos do the talking Main hoop Harness bar in Rear “x” in Now for some weld shots Test fit in the car Then I took the headlining out while the cage went off to TWS for powder coating and painted it black with fabric paint Whilst the headlining was out the curtain airbags were removed and coded out with clip Cage was back Then fitted TRS 4 point harnesses went in with eyebolts And that’s how it currently stands, I am over the moon with the work Sam has put in, feel free to give them a follow on instagram/Facebook as they will now be offering this cage with alternative spec/colour options too! The car just needs a clean now, the fuel system finishing off and some track days booked!
Parts for the fuel system Standard hose fitting crimped on the return line for the sender unit. Billet regulator housing with Bosch motorsport 3.5 bar regulator and an6 fittings In order to do away with the carbon canister properly, I think I am going to drop the fuel tank and do a decent job, does anyone have any tips? Never dropped the tank before!
Following this, fuel system is my next job on the Megane... Also wanting to remove the carbon canister / fuel vapor return "properly"
Nice work and the cage looks great. I have the tank out at the moment on mine and I am trying to work out the best way to delete the carbon canister. Once I have figured it out I will report back. I have removed the canister from the tank and just trying to work out the best way to deal with the valve (blue in colour) on the top of the tank.
Do you have any pictures of said valve? I haven’t pulled the tank off yet. I imagine exhaust needs to come off? Can break lines and rear beam stay on?
On another note, I’ll be attending French car show next month all being well, I’ll be taking my Renault Clip tool and laptop so if anyone needs air bags coding out or anything configuring I’ll be happy to help out.
