Speaker Upgrade

Discussion in 'Electrical & Interior - Security, ICE, Wiring Loom' started by RHK3, Dec 27, 2016.

  1. I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my Meg 250, as the standard ones are awful.

    I was planning on keeping the stock headunit, but looking at getting some new speakers and add some tweeters in, as I have the grills but they're empty.

    What depth speakers will fit?
    Does the factory headunit have any RCA output connections?

    I know I need speaker adapters for the doors, plus I'll probably get some sound deadening material as well.

    Thanks for any help/advice.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2016
  2. Hi, no RCA on the back of the headunit, and you'll need speaker adaptors like you said, but most if not all 13cm speakers should fit.

    Definitely put some stick on sound deadening on the door panels when you're fitting the speakers - the aluminium/adhesive type is grand.
     
  3. Thanks for getting back to me @Nigelo

    I can get an RCA converter or something right?

    I'll be getting an amp fitted so will need a RCA connection.

    How much sound deadening would I need roughly?
     
  4. No worries

    I got a lc2i line out converter, which also creates a remote amp turn on signal if the head unit doesn't provide one. I wouldn't bother with a cheaper RCA provider, you can end up with worse audio and other issues.

    It runs 2 amps for me, front component amp and one for the sub.

    As far as sound deadening, think I bought 10x 50cm² sheets and used about 4-5 of them for the front doors.
     
  5. Some amps will accept speaker level inputs, which could save a bit on then not needing a line level converter.
     
  6. I was going the same route, ended up having to change the headunit, the basic one is so bad that (for me at least) the amp would pick up all the noise and crap from the Renault wiring / crappy unit, as soon as i fitted a Pioneer it went away instantly.

    I really didn't wan't to loose the display functionality (i don't have RS monitor), but i don't really notice.

    Maybe i overdid it with the amp / speakers and it was to sensitive but i wanted decent sound, Audio specialist had it for 2 days trying to dampen the background noise before changing the head unit, not a single cable runs near other power cables, amp power ran separately from speakers.

    My amp in the boot runs front components and the 10" sub (2 channel bridged for sub)

    I gained bluetooth but i couldn't even use the inbuilt Renault mic or USB port =/
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
  7. The amp I was plannjngwon using is a Kenwood KACM1804, I have no idea what kind of input it would accept?

    I was planning on getting the 2 10" x 10" pieces of dynamat sound deadening and using a piece in each door. So I'm assuming I should get more?

    Oh right, I didn't really want to change the headunit because I have the built in TomTom, I have Bluetooth and USB as well.

    If I change the headunit I would need to buy extra wiring to make it compatible with the steering wheel controls right?
     
  8. I was thinking of doing the same to my 250 Cup, do they not have any tweeters behind the little dashboard grills?
     
  9. @Space Cadet they're empty unless you have the upgraded sound system as far as I know
     
  10. Sounds like you have the better unit, it might handle the amp better than my basic one did, but yes you would need the adaptor for the steering controls but everything still works, it does add up in cost as you'll need a fascia for the head unit also (if you go that route). No idea how it would affect your sat nav.

    4 x 45w doesn't seem like a lot but it's probably still double what the head unit is putting out and i'm no audio expert.
     
  11. @Dubz yeah I can't be bothered to start looking for a new headunit as well lol.

    The amp should be fine to power the speakers I'm planning on fitting, so I'm assuming it will sound a lot better then it does right know.
     
  12. I will be fitting my Megane RS250 cup with the same speakers I fitted in my MK2 225 F1. I have got the following so far:

    - Vibe Slick 5C 5.25" Comps (front)
    - Vibe Slick 5C 5.25" Comps (rear)
    - Vibe Slick A3 4 Channel speaker amp
    - Vibe Slick speaker wiring kit
    - Vibe Optisound8 Slim active sub
    - 10x A4 Silent Coat sound deadening
    - 4x Speaker ring mounting adapter
    - 4x Speaker wiring adapter
    - 2x Hi/Lo to RCA adapter

    Will update my progress thread when done!

    image.jpeg
     
    Nigelo likes this.
  13. @Molesyy looks good mate.

    Do you need the speaker adapters for the rear speakers as well? I thought they were only needed for the doors.

    Does anyone know the maximum depth speakers that will fit into the doors and the rear speakers. I'm planning on changing all 4
     
  14. If you're not going for a new headunit I really do recommend something like the lc2i - there are some RCA converters that will reverse engineer a much better signal. If you've got more dough there are things like the jbl cleansweep that go all out on fixing the less than awesome hu signal.
     
  15. Would the lc2i allow me to connect an amp and a active sub to it?

    Where is your lc2i mounted?
     
  16. Should do, it provides 2 sets of RCA, one of which is designed for a sub output. I mounted it in the passenger underfloor storage. Must get a picture.
     
  17. Oh okay cool.. That's a brave place to put it seeing the issues our cars have with the scuttle drains :tearsofjoy:
     
  18. Good point, must check them and it later.
     
  19. Are these the kind of speakers that could be fitted by someone with no DIY skills?
     
  20. Pretty much, yeah.

    The only issue you may have is the old speakers might be riveted in place and hence need drilling out.
     
  21. So not quite plug and play. Not sure that i would fancy taking a drill to my car.
     
  22. It's only for the rivets, which are a fastener like a screw, but one that can't be removed when fitted. You remove the head with a cordless drill - takes about 10 seconds. The mk3 Megane may not even need this; like I say, I fitted these to a Clio 172.

    Thinking back - I had to take the whole dash off the Clio to get the tweeters in. Why didn't they make the covers removable?!
     
  23. Yep, speakers riveted in!
     
  24. Ive seen rivets being drilled out on "wheeler dealers" fairly easy i guess. Just woried about cocking it up.

    Do the tweeters slot in any easier?
     
  25. Thanks, I doubt very much it's an upgraded system as it's pretty poor. I'm going to have one of the door panels off to replace a check strap so though I would change the speaker over then.

    Sorry to hijack the thread but do I need the speaker adaptor rings to fit the Pioneer speakers in the link above? (They look a perfect little upgrade, especially with the wiring adapters)

    I'm not sure if I even have speakers in the rear although there are grills??
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
  26. What are my options apart from the lc2i? Seems quite pricy to be honest.

    Do you know if I need the speaker adapters for the rear speakers as well?
     
  27. The kenwood amp seems to accept speaker level inputs so will most likely come with a wee adaptor socket that will need spliced into the speaker wiring.... a bit like this:
    s-l1000.jpg

    The amp will then do the level converting.
     
  28. Yes some amps do convert with hi-lo level and good for this situation. I looked the L2Ci but I've bought a Chinese version which are £9 and used before with no interference or quality deductions so bought them again. Not sure wether the backs need Adapters or not so bought. If they are spare il post them up for sale. The reason I didn't want to swap headunit was I wanted to keep standard Bluetooth phone function with screen use. Also I hate single din after markets lol
     
  29. Oh okay cool.. Thanks guys.

    I'm going to try and pop down to an audio shop tomorrow and see what they say.

    @Molesyy have you got a link to the Chinese version?

    Exactly the same reasons why I want to keep my standard headunit too
     
  30. @Space Cadet I'm pretty sure there are speakers in the rear. Just no tweeters behind any of the tweeter grills
     
  31. Thanks, presumably they're the same size as the fronts?

    On the basis that I don't have separate tweeters and will therefore go for the full-range Pioneers in the link above (rather than having narrower woofers and separate tweeters) will I need the adaptor rings for either the front and/or rears?
     
  32. @Space Cadet yes they're the same as the fronts 13cm/5.25"

    I know you need adapter rings for the doors but I'm not sure if they're needed for the rears as well.

    No one's been able to confirm yet. Hopefully someone can confirm soon
     
  33. Not sure about the rear, if adaptor rings are needed.

    But I would definitely go with component speakers for the front - the tweeter will lift the sounds up rather than it coming up from the footwell areas. Rest is fine to replace with full range 13cm.
     
  34. @Nigelo I was thinking to go for components at the rear too.

    But I guess it won't make much difference? So I may as well go for coaxials at the rear?
     
  35. I was just thinking it would save you having to cut holes for the tweeters in the panels, I'm assuming there aren't ready-made but empty grills for the rear tweeters.... I've never been in the back of my car :flushed:
     
  36. No spacers required for the rear but it's not an easy job, seats need to be removed for easier access, i did mine without removing but it was a pig to do.

    Also when the rear panels pop out you loose the fasteners so ideally wan't replacement for refitting or you'll have loose panels.

    The speakers in the back are mounted on plates which are bolted on, these can be removed fairly easily which means you can drill out the rivets / mount new outside the car.

    I did find there were holders for tweeters and even spare speaker cables available
     
  37. Lol I've never sat in the back myself either to be honest.

    But I can see there are tweeter grills. No idea if they are ready made or need to be cut though. Didn't even think of that to be honest with you.
     
  38. Didn't realise the rear speakers were such a headache.

    What kind of fasteners are needed for the rear panels?

    I wasn't actually planning on doing it myself, I have no idea about how to wire stuff up etc. So I was going to get an audio shop to do for me.

    Would it be a noticeable difference if I change the rear speakers?

    Car audio Centre quoted me £180 for fitting, which I think is a rip off.. How long would it take to fit an amp and speakers?
     

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