Definitive 250 gearbox mount solution?

The stud is stronger but main point is that this design does not allow excessive movement of lower bracket relative to the upper one. Hence the stud is not bend/ twisted and not prone to failure. In OEM design excessive movement causes bolt failure, in our opinion.

 

The stud is stronger but main point is that this design does not allow excessive movement of lower bracket relative to the upper one. Hence the stud is not bend/ twisted and not prone to failure. In OEM design excessive movement causes bolt failure, in our opinion.

Price - bear with me few more weeks to finish testing and than will advise.

 

Great, very interested as I'm sure others will be. As always it just comes down to price....

 

Is there any update regarding your improved transmission mount?

 

I've just fitted the K-Tec stabiliser mount today, which I'm told should stop the top engine mount from sheering as it massively reduces the engine movement.

Vibrates a bit at idle, but I can definitely feel less movement now and it provides a nicer shift too.

 

Oh, I also installed that K-tec stabiliser mount while installing new engine mounts with inserts. Do you think I wont be breaking a bolt any time soon (80k miles atm) on track? I really don't want that to happen on the Ring...

 

I would replace the bolt

I have had mine done, and i have the dogbone replaced, and yellow engine upper insert

 

Tried and tested road and track, all good. Can be made on order for 300 Euro, lead time 3-4 weeks.

 

Bit of a thread resurrection, I've noticed once I first start the car and set off in first gear if you let off the throttle it feels like it wants to kangaroo jump. Could this be the culprit

 

Well you learn something new everyday. Guess it ain't broken then.

 

Resurrecting this one...just skimmed 3 pages.

Can someone simply say:

a) does the 275 Trophy R part already take M12
b) what m12 bolt are people buying

I have the powerflex black drivers side top insert/support AND the vibra whatever lower gearbox mount. Do I still need to do this?

 

I would use an M14 bolt just to be sure, just make sure that it is a high tensile bolt

 

Now you're just confusing me more! I just want to go and buy something, fit it, job done. OR, work out that I don't need it.

 

I would not say you "need" it, but it is known to fail, not bothered doing mine

 

Thanks Mikey,

I'll think on it for sure.

 

Coming back on this one..I'm having the Kirfel item fitted later this year (lower part of the gearbox mount). Should I order the upper rubber part also? I have the Powerflex Black timing side mount insert and the Vibra whatever lower mount already.

I've noticed that when driving in gear and lifting off the throttle, you can hear a clunk from the gearbox mount area.

 

Yeah but I really don't like the idea of helicoils. I've used them a few times but it doesn't sit well with me...plus it's kind of cool to have some tat from Raeder/Kirfel on the car

 

Hah! Not a fan of drilling stuff out etc though in general, even though I know it's probably fine! My 500E mount I'm sure must be something more than just an m12 hole...we won't know till I have it in my hand. Question above though is, do I need to rubber mount also/should I get one.

 

I'm looking forward to having a wander round Kirfel myself...dangerous business. So no point doing the top rubber mount then even if I'm experiencing a clunk on lift off?

 

Don't get too excited wandering round Kirfel mind.

 

Honestly...I can't. I spend money like water most of the time but these past few months has been silly even by my standards

 

Where are people buying there M12 bolts?

 

What is the torque setting for this bolt?

 

I'd like to know the answer to this too! Where dd you get yours from in the end mate?

 

Looking at getting the M12 bolt done next week, where's best to buy them? Is the one below ok? Right length (50mm) etc?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-M12-...1-5-HEX-HEAD-PLAIN-BOLTS-DIN960-/182469868561

 

Or these from a more reputable seller (screwfix?!) https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-...-tensile-steel-bolts-m12-x-50mm-50-pack/14593

 

Attempted this today, but couldn't access the bottom bolt on the top part of the mount nearest the front (bottom right on the picture, definitely not as easy to access as that shows!). I know they only need to be loosened, but I couldn't even get space to do that! How has everyone got at these bolts to loosen them?

 

Thought that might be the case, thanks. I take it it's easy to get the arch liner out, just a few screws?

 

Two screws and some big headed plastic clip things.

 

A right angled pair of circlip pliers work well to get the plastic things out

 

The bottom bolt (front 1) you can do this under the car.... remove the undertry and can be accessed
Fiddly but easily done.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

You have a Service manual for the RS?
Can you send it to me or post a link?

TNX

 

Yeah did some Googling and found a link on a forum which had loads of them: - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/piuqa61qfgw6m55/AAAbPxHWDdGCGH9ONVTWLMaYa/Workshop Manuals?dl=0

 

I've read the thread and have a couple questions

Is the standard M10 bolt a standard 1.5 pitch?

Torque setting for the standard bolt ?

Is there a reason why a 1.5 pitch thread is suggested for the M12 rather than the normal coarse 1.75 ?

Many thanks