250 Cold start problem

Discussion in 'Mechanical - Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust etc' started by JamesRS250, Feb 27, 2018.

  1. Yeah I'm going to get it fully checked out next service at Renault. I thought about putting some liqui moly fuel system cleaner through it to see if it helps.
     
  2. Charlie Howard

    Charlie Howard RSM Club Member

    I've already tried cleaning mine hasn't solved anything. I've only heard this issue from people running Tesco Premium 99 though so I'm going to try Shell V Power next fill up.
     
  3. I tried shell v power, didn't help. I usually run on BP Ultimate 98, caltex vortex 98 at the moment.
     
  4. Charlie Howard

    Charlie Howard RSM Club Member

    Hmm is yours remapped?
     
  5. No, completely stock
     
  6. Charlie Howard

    Charlie Howard RSM Club Member

    Ah, mine is mapped to high octane.
     
  7. Kangaroo is pretty common i think on these, mine did it also but only if i didn't give the car at last a minute to sit after starting. (when cold)
     
  8. I have read on some forums that this is a well known issue with no fix. When I first described the symptoms Ryan put me onto the sensor because it solved his problem but it hasn't worked for me. Hoping Renault's diagnostic machine will pick something up.
     
  9. Charlie Howard

    Charlie Howard RSM Club Member

    Ah okay, well let us know please! We need a group CLIP machine lol!
     
  10. Mine hasn't had the issue for 5 starts in a row now, touch wood, hope it stays this way. Has been even colder weather aswell.
     
  11. If your issue is just cold starts it has nothing to do with the thermostat that is unless your temp is low during driving once warmed up. I have changed the air inlet temp sensor with no resolve. Its becoming a more confusing issue as it may start at first go sometimes. I was still unable to find a plug and loom if anyone has a part number for it would be great but i have rang around and no one knows about it. The kangarooing issue im unsure how and when does it happen for you guys. It is normal for a car to be hesitant while still cold with power and will limit you and be jerky if your trying to drive hard straight away.

    I decided to bight the bullet and take it to a garage at $125 an hour to see what the issue is. ill let you guys know.

    Form searching online it could be many things as you can see on this site which explains it well and outlines each particular scenario with possible culprits.

    https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Why-My-Engine-Starts-But-Stops
     
  12. If your issue is just cold starts it has nothing to do with the thermostat that is unless your temp is low during driving once warmed up. I have changed the air inlet temp sensor with no resolve. Its becoming a more confusing issue as it may start at first go sometimes. It would also stall by dropping idle within seconds of turning on. I have tried resetting the throttle by stepping on the gas pedal before switching the car on but it would still stall at times but the revs would rise normally initially due to the reset. I also drove on the highway for 2 3 hours for a road trip and the car started first time for a couple of days. ps no consistency.
    I was still unable to find a plug and loom if anyone has a part number for it would be great but i have rang around and no one knows about it. The kangarooing issue im unsure how and when does it happen for you guys. It is normal for a car to be hesitant while still cold with power and will limit you and be jerky if your trying to drive hard straight away.

    I decided to bight the bullet and take it to a garage at $125 an hour to see what the issue is. ill let you guys know.

    Form searching online it could be many things as you can see on this site which explains it well and outlines each particular scenario with possible culprits.

    https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Why-My-Engine-Starts-But-Stops
     
  13. You're right about the thermostat, I replaced that because it wasn't ever getting up to the right temp, that's all fixed now. Stalling, rough idle etc remains a mystery, but like I said it's been ok for a while, despite it being colder weather.
     
  14. Problem came back, stall and rough running etc. Put liqui moly fuel system cleaner through it and haven't had an issue since, see how it goes from here. $25 bucks for the can.
     
    nebz250 likes this.
  15. so you just put it in the tank and ran it through till empty? did the same but not the best brand ill try and find one of those and chuck it in the tank.
     
  16. Yeah that's all. Problem is back again however....
     
  17. Have you cleaned both MAP and MAF sensors and throttle body?
     
  18. Na I haven't yet and wouldn't know where they are. Hoping next service I can get it sorted.
     
  19. you can clean the two MAP sensors yourself and makes a difference and could potentially get rid of your problem. The throttle body cos of the tight area and being electronically controlled you can leave it for the service but def clean it.
    The two sensors including the inlet temp air sensor are all close to each other and cant miss em ill try and get a pic.
    All you need for the MAP sensors is a screw driver and pull it out, spray the inside with a Mass air flow sensor cleaner. Just unplug it first. When is say inside i mean the bit that goes into the pipe. The sensors are identical both are index finger length with a green label on em. Let it dry out for 15 min and put it back in screw it back and plug the wiring plug into them. its literally unscrew one screw and pull it out. Just be careful with it don't drop it.
     
  20. Would it be time to do a compression test, just to rule out any issues there?
     
  21. Just cleaned both sensors mate, started up first time, nice and smooth. Thanks heaps, fingers crossed.
     
  22. Problem back
     
  23. Took throttle body out of the car and cleaned it thoroughly, wasn't actually too bad a job, just a few annoying bolts to get too. See what it's like over the next few days.
     
  24. 2 days in a row now, very cold weather, no problem starting up since the throttle body clean. Both times the car had been left not running for 24 hours. This may be all it was.
     
    nebz250 likes this.
  25. How did u you go taking off the throttle body and getting the bolts. You moved the intake hose out of the way to get to the screws, unclipped the wiring plug and did u disconnect the battery. Did you also replace the gasket to manifold or just re use it.
     
  26. Didn't disconnect the battery. If you remove the two bolts that hold the metal pipe, there's enough play in the rubber hose to push it down and out of the way. Re used the gasket it was fine. Removing the plug was a pain, used pliers, but you don't want to slip off and hit the wires.
     
  27. I also unplugged the map sensor and removed the bolt holding on the black intake tube so I could push that down and out of the way. It doesn't go down that far though, bit of a pain when trying to undo the bottom left throttle body bolt.
     
  28. Just a thought did you remove the actual throttle body first then the air intake hose connected to it, just cos of the access too screws. How did u go moving the throttle plate once out to clean.
     
  29. No, I took the air hose off first, and pushed it down and out of the way by unplugging one map sensor and the bolt at the centre of the hose. Then I unplugged the throttle body, then removed the 4 bolts, and lifted it out. I noticed the plate would not fully close, it was just open. I sprayed a lot of throttle body cleaner, let it sit, then slowly tilted it with my fingers and used a soaked rag to scrub it clean.
     
  30. Problem is back again....

    Bought two new map sensors off ebay but still Bosch brand. See what happens with that.
     
  31. When you say it stalls, do you mean when you drive away, or just when you are sat stationary?
     
  32. When I'm stationary, cold start, first few times it'll stall.
     
  33. What plugs are you running? and what are the gapped too?
     
  34. Just replaced the plugs, left them at the standard gap. They were the same gap as the ones I took out which Renault fitted.
     
  35. Try gapping the to 0.6, like everyone recommends on here
     
  36. Thanks for your help, I'll give it a go if the new map sensors don't sort it out.
     
  37. I don't think the gap is an issue personally. I fitted the ngk IFR7X8G and they are supposed to be pre gapped for this car. I don't have any other symptoms to make me think it's the plug gap, it runs perfect, no hesitation etc after the car has started.
     
  38. If you do some reading up on here, the problem is the engine blowing the spark out, renault are not perfect, just because they are gapped to renault spec, does not mean that they can not be improved
     
  39. One thing seems to be helping. I've been holding the clutch in the last few starts and it's been fine, I know doing that puts less strain on the engine when starting. I will look into the spark plug gap, cheers. It does make sense.
     

  • Share This Page